UKC

Watching this video:
vimeo.com/115379388
I'm inexperienced when Ice climbing, but is he showing bad form when hooking his second tool on the first tool instead of finding a separate placement? Because if first placement fails, then both do. If he had a proper placement on second tool then if first tool pops then second tool (should) hold

In reply to DreadyCraig:

terrifying and gripping footage, a rare example of a helmet cam really working in a climbing video

In reply to John Alcock:


Indeed - I can almost feel the tension as the climber wipes away the snow looking for some purchase. Can anyone identify the route? Looks nails.

In reply to planetmarshall:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=84076

In reply to planetmarshall:

Headhunter VI,6, right of Grumbling Grooves in Coire an Lochain.

I attempted it in late 90's, got a blade peg in middle of that ramp, hammered 1 rock into corner. Popped off near top of ramp, rock failed, peg caught me, think hanging just beneath belayer (just like other guy). Aye, nails.

Stuart

In reply to DreadyCraig:

That may well be true, but the inconvenient aspect is what to do if a second placement is not available. Answers by air mail.

It is certainly true that the last resort of the totally pumped, a hand over the head of the axe rather than holding the shaft, is highly likely to lever the axe out, the grip being higher than the contact point with the ice.

In reply to DreadyCraig:

First off, my nuts are in my throat... those are some serious airmiles there! Much scarier than that pillar snapping video from last year! Do hope the chap is ok!

I often hook over one tool, normally to prevent getting pumped or to take a quick rest before placing a screw, here though I think it was ambitious, but had he pulled hard to reach for another placement it is likely it would have blown before purchase was made. Anyway back to my armchair to find my balls.

In reply to DreadyCraig:

Just wanted to add, I'm not critising the guy or his technique, I will never have the balls to climb anything that hard!

In reply to nniff:

Good point, and watching the footage back, that looks what happened here, but instead of loading the head of the tool with his hand, it looks like right at the last instant before the fall he loads the head of the tool with the other pick, which perhaps for an instant shifted the weight away from the tip of the pick and she let rip... Otherwise, until then he had been really careful to match using just the points and so create minimal rotation, plus some good crampon work showed instants where he was taking no weight on his arms at all.

The other striking thing in this clip is that there is no preamble or mutterings of "watch me" etc. and this is, Seems to be common theme with ice and mixed falls as they come often when you least expect it!

Having the time, energy and foresight to be cleaning for your next foot holds, , plus he quickly and calmly lets his belayer know that he is ok.



Still, what a great video and hats off to these guys for getting out there and going all in, and it looks like a pretty controlled bit of climbing right up to the fall.

In reply to taddersandbadger:


Brilliant!

In reply to nniff:

Good point, and watching the footage back, that looks what happened here, but instead of loading the head of the tool with his hand, it looks like right at the last instant before the fall he loads the head of the weighted tool with the other pick, which perhaps for an instant shifts the weight away from the tip of the pick and she let rip...
Otherwise, until then he had been really careful to match using just the points and so create minimal rotation, plus some good crampon work showed instants where he was taking no weight on the tools at all.
As you say, matching is sometimes unavoidable, and often the norm especially when drytooling, but I hasten to add, much easier when you know you are in a bomber, well proven (or even drilled!) hold compared to a shallow iced up crack, on an Scottish winter route!

The other striking thing in this clip is that there is no preamble or mutterings of "watch me" etc. and this seems to be a common theme with ice and mixed falls as they come often when you least expect it!

Having the time, energy and foresight to be cleaning for your next foot holds, suggests he is not necessarily too boxed, plus he quickly and calmly lets his belayer know that he is ok.
Still, what a great vid and hats off to these guys for getting out there and going all in, it looks like a pretty controlled bit of climbing right up to the fall.
Thanks Craig for posting it, and getting us amped to get out there....roll on Friday an the start of my annual ice pilgrimage )

In reply to Robert Durran:

LOL! Does sound like a pretty stupid statement I admit
Guess I was trying to convey that I did not get the impression that he had necessary wobbled his way up, right on the limit until the inevitable?
What do you think a Rob?

In reply to DreadyCraig:

Proper palm sweater! Doesn't look like he had much choice of placement - good effort