UKC

Hi all,

Just wondered if anyone knew of a topo for this. I understand there are a few sport lines on it (digital crack etc) and would like to have a good look.

Thanks!

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

There's an 8a up the arête right of Digital Crack.

In reply to jon:
Hi Jon,

Thanks for the reply. Yep, I knew of that one 'Arete Cosmiques' isn't it (confusingly) named? I wondered if there was anything else on it really- something a bit easier? Am tempted to try to and stand on the top but would rather not battle anything too hard up there...

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

There's a project to the left...

In reply to Mr Lopez:

Haha, excellent! Ok, so it's either a bolt to bolt dog or nothing....

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

There's a 6b+ (probably old skool grades... ) in Piola's 'Topo du Massif vol 2', on (or near) the SW arête of the gendarme. When you do the Cosmiques Arête you can pass in front of or behind the gendarme. I guess this route is accessed from the version that goes behind it.

You may or may not know that there are also routes on the other gendarme and also on the buttress underneath the viewing platform that the Cosmiques Arête finishes on, called the Secteur Dernière Benne. I think Lopez may have a photo of a route on this one...?

In reply to jon:

Thanks a lot Jon. Will have a look. Have always come around the front of the gendarme under Digital Crack - will take a look around the back.

Thanks also re: the route on the other one- will be worth a look. Any idea what guide is best for the various options?

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

It's Piola's old topo from the 80s but it's long out of print. You can occasionally find them for sale or you can get photocopies from the OHM in Chamonix. But if you send me an email via UKC I'l send you a scan of the page.

In reply to jon:

Thanks Jon, I have emailed you.

In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

The other one can be climbed directly from the gap you abseil into. IIRC you sort of chimney the gap to get off the floor, and after that it's romping V+ or so with ok gear going first up and then bearing slightly left following a groove and then a slab. The Grande can be climbed just left of the ridge proper, climbing the corner/chimney with a sketchy move at top where if you fall you end up back in the offwidth wedged in. The wall at the end of the ridge has 10 routes or so on it.

In reply to Mr Lopez:


Oh dear! Looks like you'll know where to find me then!

Thanks for the reply. Looking forward to seeing Jon's topo.