In reply to Davey_HB:
Conditions update - up to Feb 8th:
COGNE area: The higher altitude icefalls have formed well, but the lower altitude ones are generally in early season condition or haven't formed at all. Cascata di Lillaz was predictably very busy, but the top pitch hasn't formed. Lots of new snow fell as of the middle of last week, which settled on a 30cm deep unconsolidated base. It was windy this last weekend so much windslab now formed as well. The general Aosta area avalanche risk was Cat 3, but local guides were opinioning that VALNONTEY Rive Gauche was probably Cat 4. Popular Rive Gauche routes such as Grand Val, Il Sentiero dei Troll, Valmiana, Thoule and Lauson are in condition and were still being climbed despite the avalanche risk, much to the amazement of locals. (BTW - Valmiana p.1 is *much* steeper than normal, although (thankfully!) its hooked and stepped.) Patri was (predictably) extremely busy and quite fat. Small avalanches were cracking off on both sides of the valley this last weekend.
We didn't venture up VALEILLE this year so I can't comment on any routes there, but we did climb elsewhere:
OLLOMONT: Most routes formed. Gomorra is in fine condition although p.1 is steep. Sodoma is fully formed as is Cascata dell'Oratorio. There's less snow here than on the opposite side of the Aosta valley but an early start was advised to avoid any risk of avalanche once the sun came round. Luckily we'd finished climbing and were sheltered by the "piccolo oratorio" cliff when a sizable one came down and took out the path on both sides. On the south facing side, the Cascata del Foyer had just about formed, the Cascata di Barliard appeared to be complete but this whole (sunny) side of the valley looked quite sketchy from an avalanche POV and was being avoided by everyone.
VALSAVARENCHE: Lots of snow here too, but the higher up you went, the better the ice conditions. Pont Gully and Cascata di Pont were in condition. Antares was in fine condition. The lower altitude icefalls near Fenille were poorly formed although the Cascata di Voo appeared complete. The Cascata di Rovenaud is well formed; p.2 being very steep.
VALGRISENCHE: A huge amount of snow has fallen in this valley and the road was closed for the season beyond Bonne. (We even struggled to get that far in a 4x4 fitted with snow tyres last Friday.) Skis or snowshoes were definitely needed for the walk-ins as the snow was thigh deep here. The routes at the top end are 'in' but getting to them is another matter entirely. Ski-doo anyone?!
VALLE DI RHEMES: Again the higher elevation routes were 'in' but the risk of avalanche was high, particularly for the massive gullies on the hydrographic LHS.
The new definitive ice climbing guidebook - Effimeri Barbagli - definitely proved its worth despite its many flaws (no index, no overall locational map, some mis-numbering of photo topos and optimistic approach times) and it enabled us to find a safe option this last Sunday in the Valle di Rhemes. The 500'/ 150m Cascata dell'Entrelor was in superb condition, apparently much steeper than normal and so was very good value. The road is closed beyond Rhemes-Notre-Dame and so the walk-in's a bit longer. Snowshoes would have helped but we managed without.
It's forecast to get much warmer this week, up to +8C in the day but still freezing at night. It doesn't bode well in the short term but if the ice survives, then the snow should stabilise and it could be really good after this next week.
Hope this info's of some help.
Dave
PS Lots of new snow has fallen in Chamonix as well.
