UKC

Climbing in the Orchy/Glencoe area Thursday and Friday this week. Thought we might do the Aonach Eagach one day and climbing the other in one of the two above-mentioned venues. Forecast is for colder weather tomorrow to return so probably AE on Thursday and climbing Friday (give the refreeze a little time). Can those with local or recent knowledge suggest which would likely have the better conditions by Friday? Grade III or IV.

I've studied the relevant current threads on these two venues so no need to point me that way. Both seem to suggest "maybe", hence the appeal for more help.

PS. Was thinking a 30m scrambling rope would be enough for AE on the assumption we'll be soloing most of it and want to go light. Is this a sound rope choice?

In reply to BnB:

Was up at Udlaigh on Sunday and the ice was pretty fat. Even during the thawing conditions it seemed to be freezing heavily overnight (it was -4 at the road level before daylight) so it should still be good. Still a maybe, perhaps someone who's been there today can confirm.

In reply to J_Trottet:

My brother and his friend were the only people to head into udlaidh and it was warm drippy and ice falling alround. He said the ice was there but not safe to climb and left with nothing. Safety first. Due to get a little. Colder though

In reply to jamesturnbull:

What day was your brother there?

In reply to BnB:

Sorry, yesterday (Tuesday)

In reply to BnB:

Walked up to Ben Dorain yesterday (Tuesday) and it is very black ice is falling down on ice routes on Dothaidh

In reply to geezer and James turnbull:

Thanks to you both.

Much as I yearn to lead Quartzvein Scoop it sounds like Dothaidh north-east coire will be the more likely bet (assuming temperatures drop again in time for Friday: northerly aspect, higher, routes less dependent on ice.

In reply to BnB:

Update: we did Stairway to Heaven in the NE coire. Not bad nick considering the thaw but I had hoped my first bit of pro might arrive before 59m. Quite exciting.

Perhaps on account of the excitement I clumsily dropped a short screw and warthog into West Gully from below the main ice pitch.

They are distinctively marked and if anyone picks either up please let me know on here or text 07768 810518 and I'll confirm make model and markings.

Will pay postage and beers!!

In reply to BnB:

Quartzvein is overrated, South Gully of the Black Wall is a much better grade IV at that cliff

In reply to LakesWinter:

Agreed

In reply to LakesWinter:

And green eyes better again.

In reply to Somerset swede basher:

Not done that, thanks for the tip.