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New route on Trollveggen!

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Although written in Norwegian the pictures tell it all.

http://www.norsk-klatring.no/Impulser/Ute/Alpin/Ny-rute-i-Trollveggen

Good job!
 NottsRich 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Wow!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Wow - that looks seriously hard-core!


Chris
 JJL 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Ugh. I feel cold, scared and miserable just looking at that.
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

That looks gnarly! Could we get an English news report please UKC?
 d_b 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Excellent work. The closest I have come to Trollveggen is the campsite, and it looks scary enough from there!
 d_b 17 Feb 2015
In reply to highaltitudebarista:

Google translate does a reasonable job with Norwegian. Here is its take on the text (with a few edits):



The two Polish climbers Marcin Tomaszewski and Marek Reganowicz recently topped out a 19-day project in Troll Wall, where they have first climbed a new technical route; Catharsis.

The route is graded M7 / A4, which is very difficult, especially difficult in such a wall. The length was 1,100 m, and when one of the highest points on the wall.

The climbers chose alpine style, which involves little fixing ropes. This is straight out said very impressive.

Marcin Tomaszewski says that the length and weather required effort and very much persistence.

- How was your trip? Nice and painful?

Inspiring, creative and demanding a sea of ​​will.

- What was the biggest challenge?

Weather. We had to climb in all conditions, with storm, snow and wind.

- Some close calls?

Beyond the difficult climb ... falling rocks and overhanging snow. Summer it must be hell up there.

The climbers spent 18 days to the top, and a day of abseiling down again. It was turned 17 drill bolts on the route; 14 the climbing and 3 at booth spaces. It was used nine rivets (a hole is made and a bolt being hammered into the hole. This puts you a loose hanging that one can take with them).

We return with more information.
 0.5viking 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

On this site there is a facebook message from one of the the climbers (in english) http://borebloggen.blogspot.no/2015/02/ny-vinterrute-i-trollveggen.html
 DannyC 17 Feb 2015
In reply to davidbeynon:

I love the (quite possibly entirely mistranslated) line about the route requiring 'a sea of will'.

Danny.
1
 Doug 17 Feb 2015
In reply to 0.5viking:

Thanks, although the google translate above seems as good as the English on facebook (& I know, my Polish is none existent)
 Simon Caldwell 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:
Some more photos on his facebook page
https://www.facebook.com/MarcinTomaszwewski/photos_stream
Post edited at 12:21
Removed User 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Double hard bastards.
 Mr. Lee 17 Feb 2015
In reply to DannyC:


> I love the (quite possibly entirely mistranslated) line about the route requiring 'a sea of will'.

I'm learning Norwegian and I liked that line as well. Actually think it translates more closely as an 'Ocean of Will'. So a sea might not be enough.
In reply to Mr. Lee:

"Inspirerende, kreativ og med krav om et hav av vilje"

I translate it as "inspirational, creative and requiring an ocean of willingness"

Either way (or translation) you need buckets of courage and determination especially considering the storms that have been passing through these last few weeks.

Really inspirational.
 wbo 17 Feb 2015
In reply to Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons:

Mrs WBO says vilje betyr determination and I am loathe to argue with her.

It looks desperately hard. 18 days - what's the translation for 'plums of iron'
 gregor 18 Feb 2015
In reply to wbo:
Marek and his friend have form for this kind of thing. Marek writes great trip reports (in his own special left field way) and can take a fantastic photo - check out his trip report on their 'holiday' on Super sun spire, Baffin Island - great pics
http://www.reganclimbing.com/
 ben b 18 Feb 2015
In reply to wbo:

> The route is graded M7 / A4, which is very difficult...

Looking at the photos that looks to be an understatement! Chapeau. An extraordinary achievement.

b

 gregor 18 Feb 2015
In reply to wbo:

Oops, meant to say Polar sun spire

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