UKC

How dangerous is a wobbly glue in? Response to a post last year

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 fwh1 Global Crag Moderator 18 Feb 2015
Hi all,

Reporting on the outcome of action taken in response to this original post in November last year:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=601697

An axial load test through to full extraction was conducted on the Eco bolt today and it failed at 30kN. This exceeds both of the ratings for rock anchors (EN959 and UIAA123). The bolt in question was installed approximately 20 years ago and the condition of the bolt itself and the resin was very good. If anyone is particularly interested, I'm happy to share images and video taken of the test.

This particular route of mine (Brean Dream) and other adjacent routes were fully re-bolted with Titan Climbing titanium resin bolts and Hilti RE 500 epoxy resin today.

Regards,

Francis Haden

 zimpara 18 Feb 2015
In reply to fwh1:

You bolted and climbed it twenty years ago? And just rebolted it, very cool!
Video links would be superb!
In reply to fwh1:

Great job, and nice info too.
OP fwh1 Global Crag Moderator 24 Feb 2015
In reply to fwh1:

FYI for Bristol Climbers or those visiting Brean Down, the list of climbs below are those re-bolted with Titan Climbing Eterna titanium resin bolts and Hilti RE 500 epoxy.

Do You Get Vouchers With This?
Brean Dream
Kraken
Bikini Atoll
Tide Rising
A Heavy Road
Leaving Hanoi
Leaving Avivva
 elliptic 24 Feb 2015
In reply to fwh1:

Thanks Francis, much appreciated.
 Oogachooga 24 Feb 2015
In reply to fwh1:

Cheers! Hats off to you. Looking forward to the summer down there.

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