UKC

I used to climb there a lot in the '80s and there were some really good climbs and traverses to the lefty of the Baby Face Wall extending for perhaps 50 metres or more. It was bit scruffier and near garages but there were some good lines. I remember an impressive roof crack over a "cave" blackened by fires. Why no mention in any guides? Just interested.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

It is pretty much exclusively bouldering nowadays and I think the landings and the rather chossier rock at the top puts people off a little.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

It's been in the Kirklees Bouldering guide for many years, there is an online version now, but currently can't access due to limited internet access.

It's also now in one of the new Yorkshire Gritstone guide books, pretty sure Volume 2. The bouldering is still good and work in recent years have made it a great evening venue.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

The bouldering is good, landings are good, the views amazing.

Slightly finer grained grit giving some sharper holds so its great in the summer for a quick boulder/pint.

cheers
mark

In reply to craig h:

Great year round venue especially low to mi-grade bouldering. It is in YMC grit Vol 2 and the Kirklees website. Lots of great venues in that area for mortals. West Nab and Buckstones are amazing and many more lesser venues my favorite being Lindly Moor Edge.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

Almost everything to the left of the starting slabs on http://www.kirkleesclimbing.co.uk/holmfirth_edge is rubbish. The rock has too many low ledges, is chossy and loose and there is nothing really worth of attention. If there was no other climbing there then it might generate a few traverses but given the quality of the rest of Cliff it's just not worth looking at.

It's maybe worth a scramble with the kids but nothing more.

In reply to schloosh:

Bit harsh, there is a little bit of interest on the faces were the garages used to be. But yeh further right is the honey baby.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

Just left of Devs is a crack and facing that is a slanting crack which I always felt was a good tick. Then there's a blunt arete left again. Some quite tall things along from there. Most of the routes top out too, so you need your head together. Don't get why nobody's doing them. Back in the day the traverse did the whole crag. Even taking the easiest lines that was a good workout.

In reply to Pete Pozman:

One of the reasons for lack of traffic is that these bays are a bit more sheltered than the main crag, so are greener, therefore get less traffic, so get greener etc etc.

I see chalk and trampled weeds in those sections pretty often so people are climbing them more than you might think.

I've got some historic info the routes and problems there so will probably include that in the Kirklees Climbing guides at some point, probably after the guide to West Nab is finished.

In reply to schloosh:

You're doing a great job mate.