UKC

Can anyone recommend any routes in the Peak that are good practise for the Hollow Flake (Salathe) or the Texas Flake (Nose)?

I'm not so concerned about the ddifficulty, as I've found that 5.4 chimney can sometimes feel harder than 5.9 chimney depending on body proportions - I'm more focused on width as chockstones and ledges in the back can be ignored

Tower chimney?

Anyone know if a 7 big bro does protect the hollow flake?

In reply to ashtond6:

Can't think of anything off hand but I thought the Texas flake felt quite tricky and a bit committing. It's pretty smooth and wide (I'm 6ft and had pretty straight legs with my back against one wall), with a single bolt about half way up.

In reply to ashtond6:

Hollow Flake is definitely protectable by a Big Bro; not sure of the size but when we did it some Americans had bailed from half way up so there was an in situ Big Bro that we were relying on. Subsequently returned to original owner for beer.

In reply to ashtond6:

Tower chimney is harder technical climbing than Texas flake. I only seconded that pitch in 2005ish but it wasn't hard climbing. There was a chicken bolt or two and may be more now (supertopo will have all the info). Assuming that you're swinging leads, the next pitch is Boot Flake which I thought was one of the best pitches on the whole of the Nose. But if you lead Texas Flake then you'll get to do the King Swing. "Swings and roundabouts" as they say. In terms of other routes, there's Block Chimney at Caley (I know, not Peak - http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=34856) which is very similar in the top section to Texas Flake.

I haven't done Salathe (bailed from Freerider on day one) so I can't comment.

In reply to ashtond6:

the texas flake is pretty bad a potential stopper on our ascent. tower chimney and the one next door are harder so get them sorted and you'll be fine lines. A bolt was/ is available at half height. and if your really nervous you could move the belay closer to make the most of it.

In reply to ashtond6:

Thanks all, will get on Tower Chimney asap

done Kor Ingalls on castleton which is around 4 pitches of wide, but Texas Flake seems a bit different

I hear some people stick clip the bolt, then stick clip the belay from the bolt haha

In reply to ashtond6:

I found getting to the bolt alright, it was persuading myself to stop standing on it and press on that was the hard bit. I'm not sure you'd be able to stick clip the belay? It's all doable, just feels scary...

In reply to ashtond6:

Lead both pitches back in the day.

No gear then on Texas Flake, only some tat at the base of the Hollow Flake.

Afterwards some locals said it was common practice ( on HF ) to use bongs sideways as pro, so about 7 -8 inch pro sounds correct. A green big bro ( 5.3 to 8 inch) fits apparently. Don't expect it to feel much better though, its about a 90 foot runout without so you may still fall 90 foot with one runner

The Texas flake is standard pure back and foot ( about 3 foot wide ) , some good beta I think on supertopo nowadays.
No gear for me , but apparently a sneeky cam if you can spot it.
Just like climbing door frames as a kid.
The worst bit when I did it was planning a route to avoid the skid marks on the back wall. Dirty B's.

In reply to Rick Graham:

When I was leading Hollow Flake I was struggling a bit, no gear in, looking a bit sketchy... I heard a voice shout from somewhere over to my right: "Hollow Flake... face right!" So I turned around and it was easy. Or was it left...?

In reply to jon:

No point being secretive Jon. The beta is out there nowadays.

I faced out for the view : -)

Got a lot easier at the top when you can reach the outside edge.

It was my second offwidth in the Valley, on the first (Sacherer Cracker) I had to shout down for instructions.

In reply to Rick Graham:

No, really. Can't remember for the life of me.

In reply to ashtond6:

Get down to High Rocks in Kent, I say Seriously.

In reply to ashtond6:

Texas flake. Is standard back and foot, just keep going. You are behind it so exposure is not an issue.
Hollow flake takes green big bro (make me an offer) and old no5 camalot.

In reply to Rick Graham:

90 ft fall still better than 200ft!

apparently you can move 'the' big bro all the way up until about 20ft from the top when its really easy....

In reply to MartinL:

got the old camalot 5 & a 6 friend

how good condition is the big bro in? £20???

In reply to ashtond6:
Thought Texas flake was fine. Hollow flake was an altogether different experience certainly the part of salathe I would least like to do again. I don't really think tower chimney will help u much as prep for hollow flake I think I would tend to suggest left eliminate and Elder crack as better practice.

I had a single big bro that I kept moving up the crack in front of me on hollow flake.
good luck am sure you will love both routes
Kipper

In reply to ashtond6:

And in addition to Hollow Flake, don't underestimate the 'Ear'. Probably harder than the Hollow Flake.

In reply to jon:


+1 Get beta on this one as well. I think ( possibly wrong ) that facing out is better cos some hidden holds appear. At least its chimney width so more time to struggle. ( until your legs go to jelly and you topple out ) Classic 5.7.

In reply to jon:


... particularly when generously lubricated with some freshly-melted snow ...

In reply to jon:

Haha I guess so, but I haven't heard about 200ft fall potential on the ear!

In reply to ashtond6:


Its only 40'

but you swing back into a corner!

In reply to ashtond6:


A friend of mine was leading it and had so much rope drag that he lowered down from one piece of gear and back-cleaned everything else. At which point the top bit of gear ripped. Result, if I remember correctly, a badly smashed ankle. Of course that could happen if you over back-clean any pitch from one piece of gear, but it is a warning to extend gear and/or back clean sensibly when leading this pitch.

In reply to Rick Graham:


As someone who doesn't like offwidths or chimney's, I lead Hollow Flake (no gear & facing left IIRC) and the Ear pitch (facing out and interesting!) - classic 5.9 & 5.8 - so in other words both 5.10 lol, and surprisingly actually enjoyed both.

Feeling pleased and a bit over confident with myself, we pretty much sprinted up the dithedral pitch and the following short 5.10 pitch up to the Alcove and the easy chimney above to El Cap Spire.

Sitting taking in the view on top of the Spire and looking forward to rest, food and a good nights kip, I suddenly got ferocious cramp in both legs, and spent about ten minutes writhing around in agony squealing like a girl.

In reply to Goucho:

I would like to apologies in advance for the last 4 words of my previous post, and change it to 'squealing like a pathetic man'.