UKC

The hanger on the third bolt of Connect 4 (8a) (at Malham) has turned sideways and is bent (possibly due to my great weight falling on it).  As the nut holding it on is rusty (therefore it is not possible to tighten it) and the bolt is in a stupid place, would there be enthusiasm for it being chopped and replaced in a better place?

In reply to Tim Palmer:

Hard clip that one, been a while since I did it but cant recall anywhere easy to clip from within that sequence!!

In reply to Tim Palmer:

i think you will need to wait until the end of the bird ban/bolting restrictions.

See the BMC RAD
The bolting agreement with the Malham Parish Council (the owners) is no bolting at weekends, during the main school summer holiday or during the nesting restriction.

In reply to owennewcastle:

I don't remember the 3rd being hard to clip. The 4th however...

Andy F

In reply to andy farnell:



exactly, took a reasonable fall on to it going past the fourth bolt, I would have definitely decked out if the hanger had snapped. If the third bolt was a foot up and to the left I think it would still be easy to clip, it would not be in a wet streak (as the current bolt is) and would remove the need for the difficult fourth clip

In reply to andy farnell:

Probably memory fade....

Remember some desperate clip of an extended bolt off a crap pinch? Just before launching left into the undercut crux. Miss malham, will have to get back there this year....

In reply to Tim Palmer:

Sorry I didn't get back to you via the other channel Tim.

I got in contact with our man in Airedale and he reiterated what has been said elsewhere in this thread - no bolting during the bird ban.

There are other routes at Malham that are sporting some ropey bolts in poor positions, e.g. Unjustifed where you need a long sling to clip before the loop out right method.

I think there would be a lots of worth in collating a list and then getting it all done and dusted on one noisy day this Autumn after the birds have left the crag.

In reply to Ally Smith:

Good suggestion Ally, I'd be happy to help out with some re-bolting in the autumn.

From what I remember there's a bad bolt on New Dawn too (the fourth?).

In reply to owennewcastle:



Nope, don't remember that. I do remember clipping the 4th off the undercut after the crux slap, which was a bit gripping.

Andy F