We somewhat optimistically headed in to Lochnagar today (Sunday). Had a good look at Polyphemus Gully but a few metres' climbing was enough to confirm the exceptionally cruddy nature of the ice. Water running down the back wasn't assisting adherence to the rock either. Giant's Head Chimney no longer complete so that was out too. Turf unfrozen (unsurprisingly) and buttresses black. To salvage something from the day, we soloed up Raeburn's Gully, which turned out to be absolutely superb! Much of the cornice has conveniently collapsed in the thaw - a good couple of days ago judging by the debris - leaving a gorgeous neve slope with the odd stretch of ice (admittedly of varying quality and soundness.) Stunning views. This was worth every one of its four stars today, particularly with a golden hour top-out.
We saw various folk on Black Spout, but otherwise didn't spot any climbers.
(Extensive debris likewise below Douglas Gibson Gully and Black Spout, hopefully signifying a good clean-out.)
