UKC

Turning Stone Edge - block on Overton Wall

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 steveb2006 09 Mar 2015
Anyone know when (and by who) the large block on Overton Wall was removed - it was there last June (I think but couldnt be absolutely certain) but not there now.

Interesting that there are no marks on the slab below - so it seems to have been removed carefully and 'propelled' outwards. (I would say the block was about a metre long so quiet sizeable). The block always seemed fairly solid but I do remember many many years ago it seemed to be have been leavered (?) out a few inches.

Anyway Overton Wall is maybe a touch harder as you cant stand in the block - but there is still good gear as nice little crack/break behind where the block was is now available - same gear can be used on Hugo De Fries also so that route not really affected.
 Offwidth 09 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:

Really sad but inevitable. Some people feel that anything that looks vaguely dangerous needs to be removed on grit I wish they would go and spend some useful effort on Peak Limestone instead. The wobbly block on Kelly's Crack that was keyed in (and had adequate warnings in the guide) lasted nearly a hundred years before some vandal removed it. Sometimes it's not deliberate but inexperienced use of cams that causes the problem. I do wonder what would happen it these 'climbing sanitisation' people visited the alps.

Its "Vries" btw.
In reply to Offwidth:

And the block on Moyer's Buttress, who removed that?
 duchessofmalfi 09 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:

Having climbed this many time over many years I have to say that for years it looked and felt stable until last year when it had moved considerably getting a much bigger gap above and sitting flush on its shelf (where there had been a decent fat finger height slot before). It had also started to wobble a lot. I've no idea how it left the slot and I haven't seen it since but I think this was destined for the ground under its on steam.

The block in Moyer's buttress, by comparison, I can't imagine leaving without being forced.
OP steveb2006 09 Mar 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

Ah yes - 'Vries' - a typo. Pity the block didnt take out a few rhodys on the way.
 Offwidth 10 Mar 2015
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

The block on Moyers wobbled for 30 odd years before its demise. This was the thread (where we never found out what happened despite some fabulous theories).

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=572159
OP steveb2006 10 Mar 2015
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

I would have thought if it fell under its own steam as it were, it would have made some distinct marks on the slabby wall below and also on the ground below. But there are none. The remains of the block are lying in the bracken about 3 or so metres away from the base of the crag - suggesting it was pushed out with some force.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 11 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:

> I would have thought if it fell under its own steam as it were, it would have made some distinct marks on the slabby wall below and also on the ground below. But there are none. The remains of the block are lying in the bracken about 3 or so metres away from the base of the crag - suggesting it was pushed out with some force.

I photoed the wall last spring and the block was still there, when we revisited in the autumn it was on the floor. The main chunk was pretty big, I doubt anyone could have lifted out and thrown it, I suspect it was levered out and just 'kissed' the slab on the way past,


Chris
Kipper 11 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:

I thought it was quite wobbly a good few years ago, but I didn't think it would come out easily.
 MNA123 11 Mar 2015
In reply to steveb2006:

I have led Hugo a few times and soloed the vs once or twice and never had any concerns over the block.

I have also led moyers since the block tumbled and found it easier, getting into the slot was slightly undignified mind

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