In reply to Wee Davie:
Yes I don't recommend starting via Slingsby's!
It spoiled our day out on NE Buttress a few weeks ago, as it was not only hard, but also not protectable, so we had to bail, which was a real shame!
Glad other folk have said the same. I only wish I'd seen the comments on the UKC logbook before we set out.
NE Buttress will have to wait, I'm really hoping that conditions will hold out for a bit longer, as I can't get out this weekend.