UKC

Hi all.

I am going to Cornwall on the Easter weekend and thinking about targets. I am currently confident at VS and may or may not have just one day of climbing between now and then. Firstly, what people think would be the best way to prepare if I was to try to lead Golva? (Too late for any 'physical' training, I guess, but what about the 'head'?) And secondly, any good route recommendations to tick during the long weekend?

Thanks.
Kirill

In reply to Kirill:

I'm thinking, Golva, leads v.s.? However, you didn't say that you were leading E2 last summer. The wires are good, so as long as you're fit, you should be OK. The granite can take a bit of getting used to, so start on a severe or v.s. and work your way up. I'm thinking Demo Route, Double Overhang, Africa Route, Zig-Zag and possibly Congo Crack.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Thanks for the recommendations. I have done Demo and Double Overhang, but will have a look at the other three. Unfortunately not fit at all, struggling indoors at 5c-6a, but still want to convince myself that somehow I could get up it.

In reply to Kirill:

Well, you could get up it, if you're prepared to rest on the gear, personally, I'd wait until I was feeling fit. Have you climbed at Chair Ladder? That's super for V.S. and H.V.S.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Hm, so you're saying it's hopeless... I want to do it cleanly of course. I already backed off it last Easter (blaming the cold).
I've done South Face Direct, Diocese, Aerial and the Bishop's Rib. All are excellent! Any other gems to seek out at Chair Ladder?

In reply to Kirill:

Firstly, what people think would be the best way to prepare if I was to try to lead Golva? (Too late for any 'physical' training, I guess, but what about the 'head'?)

Unfortunately Golva isn't really much of a head problem (the gear is bomber), it's all about the muscles! And being able to jam confidently and efficiently.

In reply to Kirill:

You never know, if you're finding you're feeling fit... Wait until late afternoon when it will be catching the sun (weather permitting) and any dampness will have had a chance to dry off. Looks like you've already picked off my Chair Ladder recommendations (isn't Diocese brilliant - took my son up it a couple of years ago , he still says it's his best route ever) but I think anything there is good just for the atmosphere if nothing else.

In reply to Kirill:

Get yourself to the wall tomorrow and get some miles in !

One of my favourite Chairladder routes is Kittiwake. HVS. Can be done at highish tide if you scramble down the LHS (looking out) of the gully and onto the slab above high water.

In reply to Mark Kemball:

Yes it's brilliant indeed, I may just do it again. Thanks for the tips on tactics, hope the weather cooperates.

In reply to GrahamD:

I will have a look at Kittiwake.

In reply to Kirill:

I'll put it on the line and say as a VS leader now you've got no chance of doing Golva by Easter. I found Gillian to be easier!

Golva is a pumpy E2 which requires stamina and crack climbing skills. You say you're leading VS and struggling on 6a indoors (which is way easier than E2, even without factoring in crack skills) and have only one day to get outdoors between now and then. It's great to have targets but it's also important to be realistic...

Tonnes of classic VSs and HVSs in West Penwith, any two or three star one shouldn't disappoint.

In reply to DaveHK:

He isn't really a VS leader

In reply to GrahamD:

I am at VS level 'now'. It's been a while since I've led anything harder and I recently even failed to second couple VS's. So a pumpy E2 may indeed be out of reach for now, but I may have a plan. I am going to buy new shoes, lose some weight, and pick a warm dry day. That's a half-full glass point of view...

In reply to Kirill:

I failed on Golva (ran out of steam) at a time when I would have thought myself a confident E2 leader who was happy to have a go at E3 (I'd done Bow Wall and Suicide Wall the day before).
I would say, if you've got great stamina and relish crack climbing then you are in with a chance, at least you aren't going to hurt yourself on it...

In reply to Kirill:

I remeber climbing it when it was E1 and thinking: jeezus! Pleased to see it at E2.

What does a VS confident leader need to do to lead it onsight? Climb E1?!

In reply to Kirill:

Just do as much climbing/ training as you can between now and then, particularly stamina stuff/ getting pumped.

Seem to remember it being tough but well protected so get plenty of warm ups at Sennen under your belt so you're feeling as good as possible, make sure you place some good gear and give it a go!!!

Good luck!

In reply to Kirill:

Are you sure that starting a public discussion on your likelihood of success on the route was the best way to get it ticked?

In reply to Jon Stewart:

Probably not But I am enjoying it so far. Much easier than actually climbing And I am also still after other routes recommendations.

In reply to Gus:

Thanks!

In reply to Kirill:

Have you climbed at Carn Kenidjack? - Saxon HVS and Rock DAncer E1 (if you cruise the former) are both fantastic.

In reply to The Ivanator:

I have done Saxon, so yes Rock Dancer is the obvious target. I remember had forgotten to bring my helmet and felt naked as I abbed in.

In reply to Kirill:

I did it this weekend. Very pumpy. Very good though. Also found Gillian easier considering how I cant crack climb.

In reply to Kirill:


Stormbringer looks great and is probably easier than Golva.
Astral Stroll?

In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Well done! Sounds like a great start to the rock season! I am not going to try Gillian though as I like my climbs well protected.

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Where's Stormbringer?
I have done Astral Stroll - absolutely amazing!!!

In reply to Kirill:

Thanks. Although I have to admit we had a top rope up as the conditions were pretty damn poor, greasy and wet with lots of sea spray

In reply to Kirill:

On Carn Kenidjack to the right of Saxon.

In reply to Kirill:

Stormbringer felt pretty bold to me. Solid E3

In reply to Kirill:

>Firstly, what people think would be the best way to prepare if I was to try to lead Golva?

On the basis of the OP, I'd practise my aid climbing.

jcm

In reply to mark hounslea:


Easier than Golva then!

In reply to Kirill:

My tip: climb as high as you can. Put in 2 good bits. Climb back down. Chillout, take off shoes/ belay/ eat. Reclimb to your highpoint quickly and then go full beans.

Its not an easy e2 though.......

In reply to Bristoldave:

Thanks for the tip. I have used this tactic before and although it does feel a little like cheating it's still better than resting on gear.