UKC

Today Harold Walmsley and I completed our longstanding project in Twll Mawr to give a very long multi-pitch adventure "The North Will Rise Again" 6b,6a+,6c, 6b,6b.

It takes the wall to the left of The Desolation of the Smaug and is even slightly longer. It starts up P1 of Rock Bottom Line and is obvious enough when you get to the top of this pitch - lots of new bolts disappearing into the distance!

In quality terms Smaug is definitely a better route but you should still have fun on this.

Cheers

Colin

In reply to colin struthers:

Well done

Twll Mawr's the place to be for multi pitch sport....

In reply to colin struthers:

Good effort. Bet a lot of hard work (and hard thought) went into it... and maybe a few scary moments as well.

Mick

In reply to colin struthers:

If there's anything in the UK that makes me want to climb harder, it's all these flippin' routes in Twll Mawr being just out of reach - thanks everyone for making me want to try harder!

In reply to colin struthers:

Except that it is called Long in the Twll

In reply to Mick Ward:
All the hard work was mine (see my logbook entry for a breakdown of the effort). That is why it should have the name I chose: Long in the Twll.

In reply to harold walmsley:

Long in the Twll is a much better name too....! (Sorry Colin).

In reply to harold walmsley:

You could call it 'Ariage 6a' ...

In reply to Pjh123:

I now also wonder about names along the lines of Disputed Territory (perhaps more obliquely one of : Kashmir, Gaza, Falklands etc) or Irreconcilable Differences!

It is probably easier than at least one Ariege 6a (e.g. Lenemi) or 6a+ (e.g. Silicose Man or Fondue Enchaine)!

In reply to Mick Ward:


There was one moment that was worrying rather than scary. On one visit, before p2 was cleaned or bolted I abbed down the line with just a single 70 m rope. When I pulled the rope down from the p2 abseil the falling rope wrapped itself irretrievably round a spike about 10 m up. The climbing up to the snag was unprotected and still far too loose to consider soloing up unprotected to free it. Fortunately I had just enough free rope available to enable me to tie the middle to the p1 belay and get down on a single strand. It was right at the end of November so it would have been a pretty cold place to spend the night (and maybe longer) until somebody saw me. I did have my mobile with me but didn't get as far as checking if there was a signal down there. I retrieved the rope next visit and after that always went with a spare rope just in case.

In reply to colin struthers:

I should add that if you like multi-pitch sport routes you should forget all the arguments and give it a go. Although not as good as Smaug it still gives a good day out with a lot of interesting climbing at 6a+/6b and a short 6c crux.

In reply to harold walmsley:

Congratulations Harold; looks like your retirement from Shell is going well!

In reply to harold walmsley:
I think Long in the Twll is by far the best route name. Maybe "Long in the Tiff" may be an appropriate compromise?

In reply to harold walmsley:

You said:


Apart from our initial visit to the route you did place the bolts and because of this you seem to think that this makes it your line.

However, I most definitely didn't ask you to bolt it. On every previous new climb that we have done together I have placed my share of the bolts and on occasion I have placed bolts on routes which I was happy to accept were yours. In due course I would, as you know, have placed my share of bolts on this route as well.

But you seemed to think that I was obliged to share your particular compulsive fixation with this one bit of climbing and that if I didn't jump to it at your behest that it became your line by default. Sorry about that, but I have other things in my life besides climbing.

It is a fact that I identified this line, I proposed that we do it, I paid for half the bolts that are in it and I led the crux pitch on the first ascent. I think that gives me a say in it as well.

We ought to be able to agree that the route was started as a joint enterprise. It should have been completed in this spirit as well.

I was happy to flip a coin to decide who got to name the route, sadly you weren't.

Shame.

PS Feel free to rant away about this as is your won't and by all means re-write the history of what happened if you think anyone's that interested. However, for my part I'm not going to bother responding.

In reply to colin struthers:

Well done chaps. But how long is it anyway?

In reply to stp:

152 m or 160 m depending if you include the walk & short scramble R on p5. As p5 is included in the description I submitted to UKC I gave it 160 m in that description.

In reply to colin struthers:

wont, won't: I'm surprised at you Colin.

In reply to colin struthers:

you two sound like great climbing partners :S

In reply to colin struthers:

This thread is hilarious. Please continue to air your grievances here for my amusement.

In reply to harold walmsley:


Eek! Just glad it didn't merit getting called 'Nights at Twll Mawr'.

Mick

In reply to colin and harold:

Fighting Twll and Nail might be more appropriate.

In reply to harold walmsley:


Isn't it want?

In reply to colin struthers:

Hey guys, i find it a real shame that something that is really cool, and a real boon to the community can end up in something that leaves a negative vibe between the two of you.
For my part, I really appreciate your effort in putting this line up and look forward to getting on it. If nothing else, don't lost sight of the fact that between you you've done something really great and much appreciated!

In reply to colin struthers:

Amazing arguments, keep it up!

In reply to Babika:

No

In reply to harold walmsley:

Keeping with the Tolkein theme, how about 'The Precious is Mine!'?

In reply to colin struthers:
Bloody hell , I'm good mates with both of them and due to go on a road trip with one(I won't say which one)to Spain today. I guess there will be some interesting après climbing chat!

In reply to stuartpicken:

Agreed. Pity to have the memory of what might have been a great day tainted by bad vibes.

In reply to colin struthers:

Given that it is on Golgotha, you could have waited a week and given it The Long Good Friday.

Now it looks like Rumble in the Rubble.

More info here
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=355221

Whatever the name I'm looking forward to getting on it

In reply to colin struthers:

The North Will Rise Again.

Is that a Game of Thrones reference?

cheers
mark

In reply to colin struthers:
You guys really should just let a mutual friend name the route if you can't come to some consensus. It was obviously a joint enterprise and both of you have a valid claim to the route naming rights but if both of you remain so bloody minded and dig your heels in there will never be a good outcome. Seriously, it's only a route name, nobody else cares. There will be other lines to name, next time just sort out what's what before you start the work.

In reply to colin struthers:
Can you imagine you two getting stuck at a belay half way up this route after another rope issue?

I think it should get 2 entries in the logbook and the climbing public can decide on the final name by ticking the one they like the most.

In reply to gethin_allen:


I would go along with that although I am not sure what would happen to the logbook entries for the least popular name once it was deleted. If they could be transferred there is no problem, if not, once there were 2 entries it may need to remain like that?

In reply to jon:

Given the other Tolkien references, I suggest:

'The Breaking Of The Fellowship'...

In reply to captain paranoia:

Or "Twll grown men arguing like children".

In reply to colin struthers:

The North had rose again
But it would turn out wrong

In reply to thepeaks:

Do you think one of them will throw in the twll and accept the other name?

In reply to colin struthers:

Right you two:

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/3C5MC8Z

Will you abide by the results?

In reply to colin struthers:

Possibly rename it "Handbags at dawn"

In reply to DaveHK:



Yes and I promise not to lobby anyone to vote.

In reply to harold walmsley:

OK I'll let it run for a few days then post the results.

In reply to DaveHK:

Colin is climbing in Spain this week and may not be aware of this yet

In reply to harold walmsley:

Thanks for being such a good sport about things. Hopefully CS will agree, a happier conclusion will result and you two will produce many more classics together.

Mick

In reply to DaveHK:

I have voted, although I don't actually see a big problem with having a dual name..they're both pretty good.... Well done gents on your hard work

In reply to Chris Harris:

I think Pjh123 beat you to that one. Only I don't think Howard noticed...

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=612480&v=1#x8016150

"You could call it 'Ariage 6a'"

In reply to colin struthers:

Total votes: 83
The North Will Rise Again 37.35%
Long in the Twll 62.65%

In reply to Mark Westerman:

The NWRA is the (abbreviated) name of a track by The Mighty Fall off the Grotesque (After the Gramme) LP, 1980.

In reply to colin struthers:

Did you pull a hold off then paint a little muriel under it afterwards?

Cowboy face?

In reply to winhill:


It is not actually in Golgotha. Until inserted in the right place by the moderator (I think only the moderator can do this) the details of newly submitted routes are always put at the end of the list for the crag. For Twll Mawr, Golgotha is the last sector/area so the current location of the entry gives the false impression it is in the Golgotha area. In fact it is on the North Wall. This is covered by the description, which indicates to start as for Rock Bottom Line and the supplied topos.

Hi Colin & Harold

Just back from Font and had little access to the internet until now. Well done on the route and also the publicity you've created on here, UKC refused to run a news item when Celt and myself did the first ascent of 'The Desolation of Smaug!'

Being the crag moderator for Twll Mawr I have to moderate the route which I will do once I've climbed it, I'm planning on doing so with Celt tomorrow

Re the name(s) for moderation my options are:-

1) To keep the name as 'Long in the Twll / The North will Rise Again'

2) Go with the result from the survey 'Long in the Twll'

3) Go with a compromise name of 'Long in the North'

If you can't agree between yourselves and don't get in touch I will keep it as it is.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Go with democracy!

In reply to harold walmsley:


As an aside, the way round this for moderators is to create a buttress called "NEW ROUTES" at the end of the list - then any added routes are clearly waiting to be sorted.