UKC

Been working this a few times recently, i want to go for the lead but i have a problem with the crux...there's two different ways to do it!!
Either you move up high left of the peg then step right, balancing all the way over to the jugs (sketchy)
or...
you move right below the peg and reach high on small holds to the jugs! (reachy, crap footholds)

I can do both ways, i just cant decide what feels easier, i think they're both pretty hard!

thought it be worth asking if anyone got any beta from when they've done it? (preferably if you've done it on lead...i know many people have tried it top-rope) What's the 'official' line, how was it done originally?
If not i might just have to end up in the lake!!
cheers

In reply to Willismorris:

I went up and left of peg and balanced across. Felt sketchy on the lead!

Just pick a way and do it....I would suggest picking the the way you think is easiest.

Enjoy. It's a great route

In reply to Willismorris:

From what I know about on-sight ascents, the crimpy lower moves tend to be favoured!

Enjoy it whichever way, and why not just lead it twice?

In reply to Willismorris:
James Sutton and I both headpointed it last year. I did it the low way (right then up), and James did it the high way (up then right). Neither of us could do it the other's way.

Either way, there's a good peg right there so it's safe enough. The psychological crux comes later...

In reply to Willismorris:

thanks for the replies guys, i think im gonna go with the up and then right way, it feels sketchy but i know i can do it!!

hopefully will be getting it all on film so could be an awesome top out...or and epic plunge into the water.

psyched!

In reply to Willismorris:

Sounds like the right choice. Good luck!

In reply to Willismorris:

A friend of mine was working it last year and has done it cleanly on TR twice now, both times he didn't use the jug out right. I've tried it but have to go right below the peg then up a bit and pop for the jug. I seem to remember seeing a Tony Stone video on Youtube showing him going out right and using the jug.

Nice route, but I'll not be leading it any time soon - good luck!

Thanks for the beta guys...managed the lead first go today, well happy!!