UKC

Hi guys, i was really interested at what you guys think cos ive looked in a load of magazines and still cant find the answer! Do you know the ultimate competition climbers diet?

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

I'm pretty sure if it's not breakfast in Pete's eats, and afternoon tea in Hathersage, you're doing it wrong surely?

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Mcat and green tea

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Broccoli.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

There is no one size fits all answer to this, it depends upon so many factors not least your age. If you're serious, book a session with a qualified and experienced dietitian like Rebecca Dent.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Sausages, eggs and Stornaway black pudding for breakfast. Skip lunch and go straight to a beer based dinner. Follow up with regular pub visits or a mild home-wine-drinking addiction and you will do just fine.

In reply to Sir Chasm:

Overheard at the Foundry in the mid 90's, as an archetypal skinny climber's mate was buying the teas in the cafe:

"Do you fancy a flapjack?"
"No mate, I couldn't possibly - I just pigged out on raw broccoli!"

In reply to deepsoup:
youtube.com/watch?v=2KODZtjOIPg&

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Mostly unprocessed. Lots of vegetables, some fruit, some nuts. Stay away from 'empty calories' eg sweets, white bread/rice/potatoes unless you just want a pure hit of sugar. Meat and fish are optional (Adam Ondra is nearly vegetarian!). Some dairy if you really want. Some people respond to it better or worse than others.

For most people they know what is healthy, it's more about discipline, not too much or too little. If you are mostly cooking your own meals, preparing your own lunches etc then tbh it is quite easy to eat a healthy diet. It's when you have time constraints that the 'fun' begins..

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

From what I have read and a few of my own experiences:

Nutella and bread.

If your too poor to buy more food, drink water to fill yourself up.

Procrastinating by drinking tea is better for your climbing than climbing.

It's also proven if you don't eat organic fair trade vegan palo bars that you bought for a extortionate price from a climbing wall or climbing shop you will never climb any better than the Ethiopians who pick the nuts and berries that go in them.

Malt loaf is a great source of energy and gives more nutrition if left in a bag all day under rope and rack and squashed thin. Consume as soon as you get slightly peckish and eat the whole damn thing before anyone sees you have one and wants to share. This will keep you full for about 20minutes, easily long enough for a pitch.

This brings me to another good point. Try to avoid sharing food. Diversionary snacks that no one likes are great to share so you don't have to share the secret (best) snacks. Try openly offering rivita or bit of your Cous Cous so you won't be judged as harshley for sneaking flapjacks you think no one knows about.

Remember you need to be light, but not too light. You need to have muscle, but not too much muscle. It's confusing and fuelling yourself and keeping your weight in check needs guidance from the most expensive nutritionist you can find. They can point you with certainty to what foods are full of good climbings and what foods are full of bad climbings. You also need to tell everyone how much it's working for you and how much your climbing and weight has improved since eating only good climbings recommended by your nutritionist that you can afford.

You have done well by looking in magazines, can ask which ones? Climber? Summit? Climbing? These are ok for climbing diets but a great secret is that the ladies gossip magazines have diet articles written by people who are equally qualified as the people who write about diet in climbing magazines so you can get more info there because the market is bigger. So try heat, closer, ok, hello etc.

My advice is only helpful until the end of the season because new things have to be written in the magazines to keep them selling. Luckily for you it's just started so you have a while to use this before an expert experts me.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Coffee and fags
The odd apple

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

hmmm. lots of shitty answers to what i'm guessing is a serious question.
You look like a young lad in your picture, so i'm going to go ahead and assume you are. With that in mind, all these comments about essentially eating nothing are more or less the worst possible thing you could do. You're growing, you're training (if you're interested in competition climbing i'm going assuming training quite hard) and all this needs calories. And plenty of 'em. Make sure you're getting three solid meals a day and if you're peckish, go ahead and snack. Weight (so long as it's not just lots-o-fat) will help you train more, protect you from injury, and in the long term keep you training and getting stronger.
So long as you're diet isn't terrible, what you do in the gym is more important than what eat. You need to fuel that training. Learn to love peanut butter. Try to find the 'just peanuts' stuff. In big quantities it can be quite reasonably priced too.
In terms of more detail on what to eat: Try to eat 'clean'. That is, if you can't really picture where it came from in nature, or if there were lots of things done to it to get it into the state you're about to eat, put it down. As much as possible you wan't 'real' food. There are pretty much no universal dietary rules that everyone seems to follow, everyone is different and people succeeded on wildly varying diets. If there is one common denominator it's fruits and vegetables. Lots of 'em. Few calories, high nutritional quality. You literally can't eat too many. They'll keep you healthy, energised (again, training!) and give you nice skin. Girls dig nice skin.
Try to get regular protein. don't stress too much about this though. You're probably doing ok.
Absolutely do not be afraid of 'fatty' foods. Of course here there is some discretion involved. Olive oil and seeds, ace. Suasages, maybe not so ace. fat is fuel. use it.
and finally, most importantly, if you want to get good, get coach.
Rest plenty.
Don't get injured.
Probably, everything you've ever been told about food (including this) is at least on some level horse feces. Pay attention to your own body. Aim to feel good.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/tbp-017-adam-ondra-things-training/?port...
In the end of this podcast Adam Ondra talks about his diet. The rest of the podcast is also well worth listening to.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

A pint and a nice steak pie will do for breakfast.

CB

In reply to stuartpicken:


Unless you eat around 250 bananas in quick succession. Then you might die.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:

Did you see this?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=7195

In reply to deepsoup:

N



As reported in OTE mag many moons ago, made me laugh then as well. Thanks for the memory.

In reply to Removed Userjoejyxiberras:
A climbers staple should be nuts surely

Seriously though the human body can handle a wide variety of foods without issue, it'll adapt and get the most out of whatever we eat, although we can do things to make the job easier by eating a balanced diet based on veg complex carbs free range meats and unprocessed fats.

In reply to Pesda potato:

free range meats and unprocessed fats.

Are you suggesting there is nutritional difference between free range and none free range chickens? If so I'd love to read that study (genuine comment, not a dig) or have i completely misunderstood the term 'free range meat'

In reply to iccle_bully:
Don't know if the studies exist or not but I personally don't fancy eating something that's been stuck in a box and fed processed food, might as well play it safe if youre after good quality nutrition, as well as being as ethical as possible when eating animals.
I'm not jumping on the organic waggon though I'm not convinced on that

In reply to iccle_bully:


It might just be a psychological link but I prefer to eat chickens that have been treated as badly as possible.

In reply to cuppatea:

Ha ha - that makes it sound like I'm making it up! I was there, honest.

I wonder if someone from OTE was there at the same time - there were enough people in the cafe at the time that a stifled snigger went around the place. :O)

In reply to deepsoup:

Apologies! It's more funny now I know it to be true.

Wonder if the broccoli eater knows of his enduring fame?

In reply to stuartpicken:
Cheers urs was probably the best answer i got and the rest of the answer were pretty Crap

In reply to cb294:


Only one pint?!?! Don't you know how important breakfast is?!?!

PS this answer is NOT "pretty crap" [quote]. It's brilliant.

In reply to goose299:


The Whillan's diet!

In reply to cuppatea:



I assumed this was a piss-take too - satirising Malcolm Smith's reported training diet around the time he repeated Hubble.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:
Eggs are a good source of protein, and along with un-sugared yoghurt and salmon and chicken and lean meats, are not fattening.

Don't be afraid to indulge in the odd flapjack or fish and chips or bangers and mash or whatever, feeling happy and enjoying your eating is a good way of feeling positive, which in itself is helpful for staying well and healthy.

In reply to abseil:

Not so helpful for a serious/motivated youth though.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:
While you're still growing, you'll burn off a lot of the foods which can make adults fat, simply by growing and being naturally active too.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

Thanks for the insult, won't bother trying to offer any advice (which you asked for!) next time.

In reply to iccle_bully:
Well sorry but some one put : coffe and fags.im 12 years old

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

At your age you need to be careful to ensure that you get enough energy for growth. Eat healthy, and don't eat too much processed foods and you will be fine. If you don't eat enough you won't develop.

What do you eat at the moment?

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

What are you doing up that late?!
If you're 12, just eat want you want and climb. You're young, have yourself a childhood, eat sweets and all sorts of other rubbish whilst you still can. Enjoy yourself, you've a whole lifetime ahead of you for worrying about exercise and diets. Youth comes and goes...very very quickly.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:


Lol, it was good enough for me and me mates!

Seriously though, don't diet or overtrain at your age too much, you'll end up stunting your growth and looking like a hobbit, seen it happen.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:


Go easy on the coffee then.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras: Fruit, veg, carbs, protein, no refined sugar & processed food (if at all possible)...oh, hang on! That's a balanced diet. Just stop over analyzing this and eat healthily, train moderately and get plenty of sleep and sunshine. It really isn't rocket science, it's common sense.

In reply to Frank the Husky:


Maybe some fat too, to keep him alive?

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

I'll just leave you with Will:

http://willgadd.com/eat-this/

In reply to Turdus torquatus: How silly of me to forget! Just to be really clear for you, I wasn't offering in depth advice and knowledge to be followed without using his own brain.

In reply to Frank the Husky:

Cakes?

In reply to Clauso:

"You dont´have a coffee after climbing, drinking coffee is an integral part of climbing."- Wolfgang Güllich

In reply to Clauso:


Rock cakes, slab cake, jam tarts, plantation cake (for boulderers)?

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

Chips and gravy

In reply to GarethSL:



Word, as we said in the early 90s.

Your 12! eat food, do some exercise, have fun. If you feel you're getting tubby do some more exercise or eat less. But don't obsess about it.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

My sister always finds it funny that I have swapped a youth of quite serious training for athletics to an acttivity that she sees as revolving around breaks for tea and cake.

In reply to idiotproof (Buxton MC):


What? Cycling?

My life revolves around breaks for tea and cake.

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:


And.......

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

You seem to be judging a lot of the replies as sarcasm, when many of them are serious suggestions based on fact.

American climber Tony Yanaro (rather good) had a diet which consisted entirely of chocolate milkshakes and Hershey Bars, and I remember a Bristol climber in the 70's, who would do an entire alpine season on a diet of stale french baguettes and beer - he did some rather hard stuff if I remember?

Many of us old farts come from an era when diet was a four letter word, and beer and fags in fact WERE the main staple, along with other ingredients best kept away from a police sniffer dog, so don't judge us too harshly

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

I also put the odd apple.
The apple's more key now that we know you're 12. Got to get your nutrients from somewhere

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

Just don't over train yourself at your age as a serious injury could potentially be really damaging to your body in the future and eat healthily

In reply to Removed UserJoseph Xiberras:

Read Racing Weight by Matt Fitzgerald and adapt.