UKC

Poetry in Pink(s)

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 MischaHY 02 Apr 2015

I've written a short blog about my recent onsight ascent of Poetry Pink E5/6a, in the Rainbow Slab area of the slate quarries. This was my first E5 onsight and pretty gripping at several points. Let me know what you think, constructive criticism is appreciated. Thanks for reading!

http://atouchofgnar.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/poetry-in-pinks.html

Rainbow Slab Area

Climb: Poetry Pink (E5 6b)
Post edited at 09:33
 Coel Hellier 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Nice lead Mischa, I've only seconded it, but I can appreciate that it feels a bit scary at times.

You don't particularly mention the "crux" move, just after the second bolt, to get onto the Rainbow, but perhaps you were so happy to have a bolt nearby that you didn't notice it.
 AlanLittle 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Good account of a good effort. Impressed.
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to Coel Hellier:

In all honesty I found getting onto the rainbow pretty steady. Walking along it was seriously intense, however.
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to AlanLittle:

Cheers, glad you enjoyed it.
 Hillseeker 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

For some reason I thought the blog was going to be in rhyme!

Nice write up though
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to toasted:

Ha, that would have been pretty funny.

> I rocked my foot up really high, and thought to myself 'I'm going to die'

#CouldaWouldaShoulda

Glad you enjoyed it.
 nwclimber 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

I don't understand this phrase: "...until I was standing hands on free on the edge..." Please will you explain it?
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to nwclimber:

Good catch. Meant to say 'Hands Free, without the extra 'on'. I'll edit it.
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Now edited, finally. Blogger seems to have been offline for a few hours...
 Wizzy 02 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Really nice write up of an awesome looking route! Fantastic effort mate! Is it a good E5 onsight possibility?
OP MischaHY 02 Apr 2015
In reply to Wizzy:

Cheers dude. As for onsightability - did the job for me, and from the UKC logs it seems a few others have found it steady. I think as long as you're prepared to try pretty hard between good rests and ignore big fall potential then it's a solid choice for an onsight.
 steve taylor 02 Apr 2015
In reply to Wizzy:
If you're comfortable on long-ish runouts and have successfully done a few slate routes with 6a moves then it's OK. You can really hurt yourself if you get a wobbly at a couple of points though.

PS - nice write up. It's been some time , but I recall finding the move past the second bolt to be the crux 😕.
Post edited at 22:43
OP MischaHY 03 Apr 2015
In reply to steve taylor:
Really weird. A few people have said this to me, but in all honesty I didn't really notice any hard moves until I was manteling onto the rainbow, which felt bold but still only 5cish. EDIT: After the initial hard moves above the lower bolt, that is.

This is my first hard route on slate so maybe I'm just not used to identifying slate tech 6a yet.
Post edited at 10:54
 Ed morris 04 Apr 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

Great effort! Interesting to hear the mantel felt desperate, it's (unfairly) widely downplayed as 'easy if you can get to it', i didn't think it was easy, and felt like it would be quite easy to fluff.

Edd
OP MischaHY 05 Apr 2015
In reply to Ed morris:

Cherrs dude. The mantel felt fully fluffable, it probably isn't that hard but definitely tenuous!
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