UKC

Just returned from a bouldering session at new stones and having not been for a while was shocked to see the amount of worn holds, this is especially apparent on the itchy groove area, many of the foot holds are really worn. I am as much to blame as anyone with climbing in not the best conditions,although do we need to bypass these areas for a while and begin to climb on the more less trodden areas for a while.

In reply to llanberis36:
It won't grow back though.
Is there a need for stabilisation/repair? Is there anything that could be applied?

In reply to Jon Read:

Resin has been used at places like Bridestones to repair damage. The crag has also been left out of the new Yorkshire Grit guide

In reply to Jon Read:

I know in the 1990s people used surface hardening chemicals on southern sandstone to stop the rapid erosion of the soft sub layer in the rock.

In reply to llanberis36:
Adopting the 'prevention is better than cure' logic, cleaning any dust/grit/mud off shoes before a climb helps reduce the erosion and polishing of foot holds.

Mike.

In reply to llanberis36:
Been to Newstones recently, and I didn't think it was much difference to the general wear and tear I see every time I go bouldering. Seems funny to me that I'm now old enough to be cursing the "new generation" for battering the crap out of all my favourite boulder problems.

Some I think genuinely is down to moronic inability to go climbing without damaging the rock (when holds go from being normal bits of the rock to white, sandy, scraped patches in less than a year after a new guide book comes out e.g. these ones Trench Flakes (f6B+)) but much is just the increased traffic since the, err, bouldering revolution.

I think the bouldering walls could do more to impress on people that if you can't climb a problem, it's because you're crap, not because you haven't used enough chalk and brushed the holds enough.

In reply to llanberis36: I'd agree with you that this is something that should be considered from time to time. There is emerging anecdotal evidence that The Woolpacks on Kinder are showing signs of wear and tear since they were included in the new RF bouldering guide. I'll be heading up there this week to have a look myself and see if it's possible that it is directly related to the new guide. If so, I will certainly be presenting a case via the BMC and PDNPA to have the venue removed from future guides.

In reply to Jon Stewart:


Naughty, naughty Jon, you know as well as I do that one of the great joys of bouldering is finding stuff that you can't do first off, and need working to send.
I'm afraid the genie is out of the bottle as far as the numbers who are out trashing grit at every opportunity. Shame it can't be like limestone which becomes a better training medium with increased polish!

In reply to llanberis36:

I think there is a case for some sort of hold stabilisation at new stones as some of the holds, particularly starting footholds are eroding quite noticeably. I don't think a ban would have any effect though as the rock won't heal on it's own.

In reply to llanberis36:

I would support a voluntary 'ethic' to climb there only if the rock is properly dry. After all it is in damp conditions that the erosion most readily happens, plus the climbing is better when dry.

All climbing causes erosion but if we are to carry on enjoying this finite resource it would make sense to only do so when it is at its most enjoyable.

In reply to llanberis36:

Hammer, chisel tap tap tap,tad darrr new holds,infact new problems,you're welcome