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UKC Fit Club Week 421
I believe this will be the last time I do the stats for a while, before handing over to Dandan82 for next week. It's been great to read a bit more detail in everyone's posting and I'd definitely recommend taking a turn!
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=613038
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
The Ex-Engineer - Good to see you last week, and great work on the yellows! Did you make it to Huntsham?
planetmarshall - Got some enthusiasm back?
hms - Have fun on the grit!
mbh - Great week of running! That's some serious miles, and some serious ascent to go with it.
Cheese Monkey - I think the winter colds struck late this year. I hope you're over it now.
Joyce - Good week up North? Did you get oback on Underhand?
Mutl3y - That's a lot of press-ups and pull-ups. Good work at Burbage.
flopsicle - Well done on the dynamic moves! How did Friday's comp go?
biscuit - Starting some focussed training for the Ashes. Two sessions this week?
Nick Russell - thesis nearly there.
Humperdink - Those interval sessions look pretty tough.
mrchewy - Have a good time in Spain! I hope the calf sorted itself out. Hitting the ground is best avoided.
mattrm - Well done on the 6b and congrats on the new job!
Dandan82 - Keep crushing in Kaly.
Exile - Good training there. I like your focussed approach.
0.5viking - I probably wash my kit once or twice in a season, not every time I climb on sea cliffs.
Tyler - Did you get out on the bike this week?
Ally Smith - How's the finger?
Roadrunner5 - Feeling better? Decent mileage considering the lurgy.
Just Tintin - Shame about the rain in font. At least you got some pastries!
AJM - Some good ticks from Rocklands. Have a good recovery week.
Joughton - Good effort on the 8a! Looking forward to the full report.
I believe this will be the last time I do the stats for a while, before handing over to Dandan82 for next week. It's been great to read a bit more detail in everyone's posting and I'd definitely recommend taking a turn!
Link to last week's thread:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=613038
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week's posters:
The Ex-Engineer - Good to see you last week, and great work on the yellows! Did you make it to Huntsham?
planetmarshall - Got some enthusiasm back?
hms - Have fun on the grit!
mbh - Great week of running! That's some serious miles, and some serious ascent to go with it.
Cheese Monkey - I think the winter colds struck late this year. I hope you're over it now.
Joyce - Good week up North? Did you get oback on Underhand?
Mutl3y - That's a lot of press-ups and pull-ups. Good work at Burbage.
flopsicle - Well done on the dynamic moves! How did Friday's comp go?
biscuit - Starting some focussed training for the Ashes. Two sessions this week?
Nick Russell - thesis nearly there.
Humperdink - Those interval sessions look pretty tough.
mrchewy - Have a good time in Spain! I hope the calf sorted itself out. Hitting the ground is best avoided.
mattrm - Well done on the 6b and congrats on the new job!
Dandan82 - Keep crushing in Kaly.
Exile - Good training there. I like your focussed approach.
0.5viking - I probably wash my kit once or twice in a season, not every time I climb on sea cliffs.
Tyler - Did you get out on the bike this week?
Ally Smith - How's the finger?
Roadrunner5 - Feeling better? Decent mileage considering the lurgy.
Just Tintin - Shame about the rain in font. At least you got some pastries!
AJM - Some good ticks from Rocklands. Have a good recovery week.
Joughton - Good effort on the 8a! Looking forward to the full report.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing fit club Nick.
M - Run. Nice 10k cross country, easter egg burning effort round rivers and fields that make up part of the Nene valley.
T - Travelled to N Wales with my daughter and dog for a few days camping. Had a bimble up Siabod and then a play on the RAC boulders.
W - Walk up Devils Kitchen path / across Gyderau to Y Foel Goch / down Bochlwyd path. Perfect weather for the hills, sunny but not stifling. Finished up with a dip in Afon Glaslyn and a hand made pizza cooked on a wood fired oven, both metres away from our tent. Cracking day.
T - Spent the morning back at the RAC boulders, mainly getting to grips with the subtleties of outdoor grades. Then travelled home.
F - Rest.
S - Rest / walk.
S - 6km run in the sun.
A good week - getting outdoors proper, really got my psyche back.
Had a great time at the RAC boulders, although the outdoor grades really made a mockery of me to start with. Glad the Boulder Britain guidebook I used had Font grades (as opposed to V) down to F2 as I don't think I did anything over a F4+. Completely different ball game to indoor routes, a lot less effort required perhaps, but I learnt a good deal on what constitutes a hold and the need to trust your feet.
Can't wait to get back out climbing on real rock! Gonna have to find somewhere closer to home for shorter trips (perhaps Beacon Hill or up to Burbage South) as the roads all the way to N Wales have become a 50mph misery!
Thanks for doing fit club Nick.
M - Run. Nice 10k cross country, easter egg burning effort round rivers and fields that make up part of the Nene valley.
T - Travelled to N Wales with my daughter and dog for a few days camping. Had a bimble up Siabod and then a play on the RAC boulders.
W - Walk up Devils Kitchen path / across Gyderau to Y Foel Goch / down Bochlwyd path. Perfect weather for the hills, sunny but not stifling. Finished up with a dip in Afon Glaslyn and a hand made pizza cooked on a wood fired oven, both metres away from our tent. Cracking day.
T - Spent the morning back at the RAC boulders, mainly getting to grips with the subtleties of outdoor grades. Then travelled home.
F - Rest.
S - Rest / walk.
S - 6km run in the sun.
A good week - getting outdoors proper, really got my psyche back.
Had a great time at the RAC boulders, although the outdoor grades really made a mockery of me to start with. Glad the Boulder Britain guidebook I used had Font grades (as opposed to V) down to F2 as I don't think I did anything over a F4+. Completely different ball game to indoor routes, a lot less effort required perhaps, but I learnt a good deal on what constitutes a hold and the need to trust your feet.
Can't wait to get back out climbing on real rock! Gonna have to find somewhere closer to home for shorter trips (perhaps Beacon Hill or up to Burbage South) as the roads all the way to N Wales have become a 50mph misery!
In reply to Nick Russell: Cheers Nick, thanks for keeping the stats going
Bit of a wonky week so I'll start with Thursday...
Thurs - climbing at Osp, 'warmed up' on a 6a+ which turned out to be a 7a, then a 7a which turned out to be a 7b (didn't realise until we got the new guide the next day though). Obviously I had quite a lot of difficulty so I sacked off onsightning and had a play on the first 8a I came across, Zadnja Skusnjava (whatever that means). Worked in bolt to bolt then had a quick pop on the redpoint but got shut down my the final move of the first crux sequence. Too tired to continue so planned to come back later.
Fri - Misja Pec because Osp was too hot. Spent the day failing - the grades here are tough! Dad had been on sighting 7b in Costa Blanca/Chullila but getting shut down by 7as here so it was good to know it wasn't just me! Failed on 7b, 7c, 7b.
Sat - miserably cold and wet day, couldn't bring myself to climb at Misja Pec again in the cold so took a rest day.
Sun - Warmer so back to Misja Pec. More failing, managed a 6c+ and 7a before failing on 7b+ and 7c. General pattern was feeling incredibly strong for first 10 metres before totally powering out and having to scrape through or peel off.
Mon - went to the supposedly softer area of Buzet on Croatia for the day. Warmed up on an unknown route then came very close to a 7b+ onsight but had a foot slip slapping for the thank god jug. Managed a 7a+ and 7b at least.
Tue - realised if I wanted to do the 8a I wouldn't manage five days on so took another rest day - the first time I've ever taken two in a week!
Wed - forgot the guide in my narrow minded focus to do the 8a, so accidentally warmed up on a 7b. Dropped off when I got too pumped. Zadnja Skusnjava consisted of an awkwardly pumpy first few metres before a semi-rest at a very marginal kneebar, then a super powerful four move crux sequence on steep ground before jugs leading to a better knee bar rest, followed by ten metres of just-off-vert techy crimp pulling to a final heartbreaking slap before the chains.
1st go - fell at crux as I couldn't get the knee bar, necersarry for the first move, to sit with my rudimentary knee pad (duct tape and a kitchen cloth) I'd made for the bigger knee bar higher up. Rested and got the headwall clean which gave me the confidence to want to try again. Came down and moved knee pad up my thigh.
2nd go - knee bar stuck but I'd lost the power I had on the first day for the second move of the crux. Added marginal heel hook into the micro-beta.
3rd go - stuck the crux by the skin of my teeth, catching every hold terribly, but managed to get enough back at the rest to sketch up the headwall. Definitely a step up in difficulty from Aberration, and in only two days. Checked the grade in another guidebook which said 8a+, along with the majority of 8a.nu users. Regarddless of the grade, its definitely progress.
Thur - back at a different sector of Osp - Lunkja is like a limestone tufa-ridden version of Flatanger. Warmed up on a 7a, then played on a horizontal 8a before giving up. Fell off onsightning a 7b when I yanked a huge hold off, and the finished the holiday with a hard-fought 7b to re-even the karma.
So a mixed holiday, which reveals the pros and cons of just bouldering for two months. Either way, I'm pretty chuffed with 8a/+ in four attempts! Onsight-wise, either the grades in the area were tough or I just severely lacked endurance. Probably a mix of the two.
In other exciting news, I've made plans to spend a month climbing at the gorge du tarn over the summer which I'm very psyched for!!!
Cheers, Jake
Bit of a wonky week so I'll start with Thursday...
Thurs - climbing at Osp, 'warmed up' on a 6a+ which turned out to be a 7a, then a 7a which turned out to be a 7b (didn't realise until we got the new guide the next day though). Obviously I had quite a lot of difficulty so I sacked off onsightning and had a play on the first 8a I came across, Zadnja Skusnjava (whatever that means). Worked in bolt to bolt then had a quick pop on the redpoint but got shut down my the final move of the first crux sequence. Too tired to continue so planned to come back later.
Fri - Misja Pec because Osp was too hot. Spent the day failing - the grades here are tough! Dad had been on sighting 7b in Costa Blanca/Chullila but getting shut down by 7as here so it was good to know it wasn't just me! Failed on 7b, 7c, 7b.
Sat - miserably cold and wet day, couldn't bring myself to climb at Misja Pec again in the cold so took a rest day.
Sun - Warmer so back to Misja Pec. More failing, managed a 6c+ and 7a before failing on 7b+ and 7c. General pattern was feeling incredibly strong for first 10 metres before totally powering out and having to scrape through or peel off.
Mon - went to the supposedly softer area of Buzet on Croatia for the day. Warmed up on an unknown route then came very close to a 7b+ onsight but had a foot slip slapping for the thank god jug. Managed a 7a+ and 7b at least.
Tue - realised if I wanted to do the 8a I wouldn't manage five days on so took another rest day - the first time I've ever taken two in a week!
Wed - forgot the guide in my narrow minded focus to do the 8a, so accidentally warmed up on a 7b. Dropped off when I got too pumped. Zadnja Skusnjava consisted of an awkwardly pumpy first few metres before a semi-rest at a very marginal kneebar, then a super powerful four move crux sequence on steep ground before jugs leading to a better knee bar rest, followed by ten metres of just-off-vert techy crimp pulling to a final heartbreaking slap before the chains.
1st go - fell at crux as I couldn't get the knee bar, necersarry for the first move, to sit with my rudimentary knee pad (duct tape and a kitchen cloth) I'd made for the bigger knee bar higher up. Rested and got the headwall clean which gave me the confidence to want to try again. Came down and moved knee pad up my thigh.
2nd go - knee bar stuck but I'd lost the power I had on the first day for the second move of the crux. Added marginal heel hook into the micro-beta.
3rd go - stuck the crux by the skin of my teeth, catching every hold terribly, but managed to get enough back at the rest to sketch up the headwall. Definitely a step up in difficulty from Aberration, and in only two days. Checked the grade in another guidebook which said 8a+, along with the majority of 8a.nu users. Regarddless of the grade, its definitely progress.
Thur - back at a different sector of Osp - Lunkja is like a limestone tufa-ridden version of Flatanger. Warmed up on a 7a, then played on a horizontal 8a before giving up. Fell off onsightning a 7b when I yanked a huge hold off, and the finished the holiday with a hard-fought 7b to re-even the karma.
So a mixed holiday, which reveals the pros and cons of just bouldering for two months. Either way, I'm pretty chuffed with 8a/+ in four attempts! Onsight-wise, either the grades in the area were tough or I just severely lacked endurance. Probably a mix of the two.
In other exciting news, I've made plans to spend a month climbing at the gorge du tarn over the summer which I'm very psyched for!!!
Cheers, Jake
2
In reply to Joughton:
Good trip report! How popular is the area you were at? I've not really heard much about climbing in Slovenia.
Good trip report! How popular is the area you were at? I've not really heard much about climbing in Slovenia.
> I've made plans to spend a month climbing at the gorge du tarn over the summer
Sounds awesome! Managed to get out plenty this week, taking advanage of the good weather and longer evenings in Bristol
M - Rest.
T - Brean. Warm-up on Coral Sea and Pearl Harbour (it's still not a good warm-up) then a few goes on Bullworker (7c). Got a plausible sequence through the crux but Ally has different beta (thanks). Will be good to go back and try it.
W - 6km run. I think running types would call it fartlek, it was fun!
T - Cheddar. Farewell to the Working Classes (7a+) second go.
F - 6km run.
S - Cheddar. Had a go on Mercurial Sump Dweller (7b+). Really fun moves on the headwall! Three times up, the third of which was a decent redpoint attempt but my arms withered about half way through the (sustained) crux sequence.
S - Rest.
I do like Cheddar, but it takes some getting used to after not climbing there for a while. Must go back for Mercurial: I worked out all the moves, though one powerful move into/through a marginal LH gaston in a flaring finger crack could be problematic.
Working on Farewell... on Tuesday was frustrating at first. I just couldn't seem to string the moves together. On the second go up ('to take the draws down' - it was getting late) I noticed a crucial little foot and blasted out the crux no problem. Not impressed with my redpointing skills (should have spotted the foot first time) but quite satisfied to get it second go.
Assorted Goals
New routes in Morocco
Fly out on Tuesday. Psyched!
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
Sort out the asymmetry
Ongoing
M - Rest.
T - Brean. Warm-up on Coral Sea and Pearl Harbour (it's still not a good warm-up) then a few goes on Bullworker (7c). Got a plausible sequence through the crux but Ally has different beta (thanks). Will be good to go back and try it.
W - 6km run. I think running types would call it fartlek, it was fun!
T - Cheddar. Farewell to the Working Classes (7a+) second go.
F - 6km run.
S - Cheddar. Had a go on Mercurial Sump Dweller (7b+). Really fun moves on the headwall! Three times up, the third of which was a decent redpoint attempt but my arms withered about half way through the (sustained) crux sequence.
S - Rest.
I do like Cheddar, but it takes some getting used to after not climbing there for a while. Must go back for Mercurial: I worked out all the moves, though one powerful move into/through a marginal LH gaston in a flaring finger crack could be problematic.
Working on Farewell... on Tuesday was frustrating at first. I just couldn't seem to string the moves together. On the second go up ('to take the draws down' - it was getting late) I noticed a crucial little foot and blasted out the crux no problem. Not impressed with my redpointing skills (should have spotted the foot first time) but quite satisfied to get it second go.
Assorted Goals
Fly out on Tuesday. Psyched!
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
Ongoing
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers for doing fit club for a while - it really is appreciated, by all of us.
The leg's not good and the air strike cost me two day's but climbing starts tomorrow hopefully. All I have to report this week is a day out in both Brighton and Barcelona. Bored and uninterested. Then I remembered city breaks work best with beer and/or a girlfriend... beer it is.
Cheers for doing fit club for a while - it really is appreciated, by all of us.
The leg's not good and the air strike cost me two day's but climbing starts tomorrow hopefully. All I have to report this week is a day out in both Brighton and Barcelona. Bored and uninterested. Then I remembered city breaks work best with beer and/or a girlfriend... beer it is.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, and thanks for keeping this going.
I felt tired this week after last, and had to fit running in around work and us having one car. I didn't do intervals as such, but tried hard up loads of hills. The elevation profiles for the last two runs look like beds of nails.
65 ish miles, 7500 ft ascent.
M - nothing (well I had done 30 miles the day before!)
T - 9.3 miles from work
W - 9.3 miles to work (harder this way round) , then 6.6 miles from work, over Carn Brae
T - 9.3 miles to work
F - 5 miles hilly. Felt really washed out and did it in 8:15 ish. Saw that a year ago I was doing this in 9:15 ish.
S - 15 miles hilly through Blisland, Cornwall's prettiest village, I think.
S - 10 miles hilly
Next week I have the 5 Tors race.
Thanks Nick, and thanks for keeping this going.
I felt tired this week after last, and had to fit running in around work and us having one car. I didn't do intervals as such, but tried hard up loads of hills. The elevation profiles for the last two runs look like beds of nails.
65 ish miles, 7500 ft ascent.
M - nothing (well I had done 30 miles the day before!)
T - 9.3 miles from work
W - 9.3 miles to work (harder this way round) , then 6.6 miles from work, over Carn Brae
T - 9.3 miles to work
F - 5 miles hilly. Felt really washed out and did it in 8:15 ish. Saw that a year ago I was doing this in 9:15 ish.
S - 15 miles hilly through Blisland, Cornwall's prettiest village, I think.
S - 10 miles hilly
Next week I have the 5 Tors race.
In reply to Nick Russell: Adam Ondra described it as being in the top five hard sport locations in Europe, but I think its relatively alone in England - most of the campsite were german/austrian.
Really good climbing but I didn't feel like I was climbing well enough to get the most out of it.
Really good climbing but I didn't feel like I was climbing well enough to get the most out of it.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing the stats Nick.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (+2 lbs)
M - 100 dish tucks
T - T - Rest
F - 14km mtb (Penydd)
S - 38k mtb (Blade and Skyline)
S - 100 dish tucks
Month Avg - 58%
Year Avg - 70%
An ok week all things considering. Just about keeping the average going. Weight has crept up a bit and no climbing But a decent amount of riding to get me ready for the enduro. I'll try and get two rides in this week as well. I managed the 38k in 5.5 hours, so as long as I can be a bit faster at the event, it shouldn't be too bad.
Thanks for doing the stats Nick.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 5lbs (+2 lbs)
M - 100 dish tucks
T - T - Rest
F - 14km mtb (Penydd)
S - 38k mtb (Blade and Skyline)
S - 100 dish tucks
Month Avg - 58%
Year Avg - 70%
An ok week all things considering. Just about keeping the average going. Weight has crept up a bit and no climbing But a decent amount of riding to get me ready for the enduro. I'll try and get two rides in this week as well. I managed the 38k in 5.5 hours, so as long as I can be a bit faster at the event, it shouldn't be too bad.
In reply to Nick Russell:
A much better week, no excuses with the excellent weather. Still waiting for a diagnosis on the hand injury, will speak to my GP tomorrow to find out what the situation is.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Trail Run 11.65km/416m
Wed - Trail Run 10.35km/497m
Thu - Rest
Fri - Trail Run 11.86km/536m
Sat - Trail Run 13.28km/163m
Sun - Easy routes at The Foundry.
A much better week, no excuses with the excellent weather. Still waiting for a diagnosis on the hand injury, will speak to my GP tomorrow to find out what the situation is.
Mon - Rest
Tue - Trail Run 11.65km/416m
Wed - Trail Run 10.35km/497m
Thu - Rest
Fri - Trail Run 11.86km/536m
Sat - Trail Run 13.28km/163m
Sun - Easy routes at The Foundry.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for the club Nick!
This week's been really odd. It's the Easter hols so until today I've had my now 7yr old in tow, no complaint but it does make everything different. Also I was working toward the bouldering comp on Fri night, that was my fitness target, to get there in as good a nick as was reasonable, ready physically leaving just the head game to sort. Fri came and went and it feels weird not having a count down, I've been counting down for about 6 mths - feels very odd. So here goes...
Mon - Nowt!
Tues - 1.6 miles on my own, picked up kid then we did 2.6 miles run/walk.
Weds - 2.7 miles lots of hilly bits. Climbing with my kid and a spare belayer so did get some routes done, very bitty though.
Thurs - Nowt!
Fri - Winter Bouldering League Final at Depot. I won the 40+, but there's only 3 in it! However, I got 6 mths free entry WOOT WOOT! I'll still climb mostly at notts for the variety but being able to have a second venue more than just for the comp entry will be ace. I'll be able to go at busy times, I'll be able to work the months problems rather than one hit wonder (occasional second visit). I think it's an amazing prize and I hope it does attract more 40+ lasses to chalk up and swing! I was pleased as punch with my climbing, despite being nervous at the start, once I had 5 or 6 done I started to feel really clear headed and got my best score yet (not just 'cos it was doubled!!). Really happy.
Sat - Walk with kid at Dovedale, fun and I suppose 7 miles is at least some exercise.
Sun - Dragon Boat open day, LOVED it! Complete contrast to climbing. I'm still not sure how it'll shoe horn in between the climbing but the folk seemed lovely, there's one training session I should be able to make each week. They also seem welcoming of kids which makes a world of difference. I will go back.
30 mins climb - didn't realise Depot shuts at 6! Played on big jugs working on speed, volume and momentum.
So, I need new goals. I had 3 goals when I joined:
A UKtech 6a roped at notts. But Notts has shifted to F grades and I haven't found where I am with it just yet, F6b+ (or f??) seems about my top grade, where it had been UK tech 5c - that's best climbs not norm. Notts grading is re-known as stiff, general opinion often seems to be that UK tech 5c is a bit pants, it's not amazing but at notts it wasn't pants either. I don't have a goal yet in the new grades, I want F7 but I think that's pushing it too much from where I'm at.
WBL - get in decent nick for final. Ticked!
100 laps on the auto belay, all on routes in one session(2000ft after reducing for my height etc). I'm up to 61...
I only have 1 goal left!! Meep....
Thanks for the club Nick!
This week's been really odd. It's the Easter hols so until today I've had my now 7yr old in tow, no complaint but it does make everything different. Also I was working toward the bouldering comp on Fri night, that was my fitness target, to get there in as good a nick as was reasonable, ready physically leaving just the head game to sort. Fri came and went and it feels weird not having a count down, I've been counting down for about 6 mths - feels very odd. So here goes...
Mon - Nowt!
Tues - 1.6 miles on my own, picked up kid then we did 2.6 miles run/walk.
Weds - 2.7 miles lots of hilly bits. Climbing with my kid and a spare belayer so did get some routes done, very bitty though.
Thurs - Nowt!
Fri - Winter Bouldering League Final at Depot. I won the 40+, but there's only 3 in it! However, I got 6 mths free entry WOOT WOOT! I'll still climb mostly at notts for the variety but being able to have a second venue more than just for the comp entry will be ace. I'll be able to go at busy times, I'll be able to work the months problems rather than one hit wonder (occasional second visit). I think it's an amazing prize and I hope it does attract more 40+ lasses to chalk up and swing! I was pleased as punch with my climbing, despite being nervous at the start, once I had 5 or 6 done I started to feel really clear headed and got my best score yet (not just 'cos it was doubled!!). Really happy.
Sat - Walk with kid at Dovedale, fun and I suppose 7 miles is at least some exercise.
Sun - Dragon Boat open day, LOVED it! Complete contrast to climbing. I'm still not sure how it'll shoe horn in between the climbing but the folk seemed lovely, there's one training session I should be able to make each week. They also seem welcoming of kids which makes a world of difference. I will go back.
30 mins climb - didn't realise Depot shuts at 6! Played on big jugs working on speed, volume and momentum.
So, I need new goals. I had 3 goals when I joined:
A UKtech 6a roped at notts. But Notts has shifted to F grades and I haven't found where I am with it just yet, F6b+ (or f??) seems about my top grade, where it had been UK tech 5c - that's best climbs not norm. Notts grading is re-known as stiff, general opinion often seems to be that UK tech 5c is a bit pants, it's not amazing but at notts it wasn't pants either. I don't have a goal yet in the new grades, I want F7 but I think that's pushing it too much from where I'm at.
WBL - get in decent nick for final. Ticked!
100 laps on the auto belay, all on routes in one session(2000ft after reducing for my height etc). I'm up to 61...
I only have 1 goal left!! Meep....
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, I'll do my best to keep fit club ticking along, I should be able to do it for a good few weeks at least.
So, week 1 of our Kaly trip is over, and I can comfortably say it has been the best climbing week i've ever had.
I have always been keen to come out here and have heard so much about it, but rarely does something exceed your expectations so much. Every crag we go to is completely mind blowing in terms of quality and amazing lines, climbers are super friendly, locals are super friendly, it's an amazing place to be. I don't even care about 'holiday grades' and the sometimes soft nature of the grading, I would knock a grade off every route I climbed and still be dead chuffed with the climbing I have done.
M: After a warm up day at Poets, it was off to the Grande Grotta. It was a little rainy and windy so the cave was dripping a little but you could work around it on the routes. Warmed up on a 6b (6c on UKC) on Afternoon wall until we got forced into the cave by the rain. Then the fun started, first up, onsighted Trela (7a) 7a very comfortably. My first taste of tufa climbing and I loved it! The steepness interspersed with good rests played perfectly to my training, it genuinely felt like a walk. I thought I would push the boat out and try Tufantastic (7b+) 7b+ after watching our new friend Tomar put the draws in, and unbelievably, I flashed it comfortably! A new best flash for me, very pleased. I finished off with an onsight of Elefantenhimmel (7a) 7a, possibly the steepest line I have ever done, at one point you can stand across two stalactites and look straight out of the cave with the bolts stretching ahead of you on the horizontal ceiling!
T: Despite all the training and injury prevention, i'm still getting a bit of feedback from my elbows, so today was gentle one to stop any real problems developing. We went up to Spartacus and Spartan Wall as Si wanted to get on Daniboy (8a) 8a. The temptation to pull on it was strong, I did do the first 3 bolts to clip a slightly iffy draw for Si but managed to resist going any further. Onsighted a bunch of 6b-6c routes, elbows survived well.
W: Went to Iliada, a really nice sector with some hard stuff but also some great quality easier stuff for my wife to do. I had no plans to do anything hard and annoyingly my elbows were still feeling a little off so I just got some mileage in on 6a's and 6b's, putting the rope up for my wife. (she's a top rope tough guy) Si and Tomar put some work in on a 7c but left with unfinished business.
T: Rest day. I bought some snazzy new trousers, I was feeling a bit left out with everyone in town rocking primary coloured outerwear so i'm now the proud owner of some green trousers! (possibly the first time i've ever fallen victim to fashion)
F: Back to Iliada, warmed up on a couple of 6a/b's then did Oetida Extension (7a) 7a in one, the worst rope drag i've ever experienced, you are supposed to second the first pitch to clean some of the draws but I got impatient and went for it.
Tomar made short work of his 7c project so i asked him to shout beta while I tried a flash attempt. Despite the howling wind whipping most of his advice away before I heard it, i somehow flashed Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) 7c! Super chuffed with this, new best flash grade again! A really good line too, sustained with marginal rests and some good sequences.
S: Back up to Poets for another chilled day, focussing mostly on trying to find a 6c or 6c+ project for my wife, we thought we found one, described as a classic, but it turned out to be less impressive than expected with a very confusing line towards the top, and a stiffer grade than we thought; Omero (7a) 7a was possibly not the project for her.
S: Kalydna. Amazing crag, tucked into the hillside with soaring orange walls around 60 metres high. We got stuck into some great 6's, one of which was possibly my favourite 6 i've ever climbed Extra (6b) 6a+ and then went for the good stuff. First up was Nickel (7a+) 7a+ which went onsight. My wife had a go at this and got all the moves on top rope, really impressive stuff!
Next, I tried Aurora (7c+) 8a, got the first pitch onsight at 7b, awesome! I tried to continue to the 8a extension but got shut down on the first of two increasingly hard boulder problems which I couldn't even get through after a rest, not going to happen today.
Not to be deterred I put up a 6b for my wife and climbed the extension onsight KalyNikhla Extension (7b) 7b, two 7b onsights in a day! Amazing stuff. I was going to round it off with a 7a but we ran out of light, we walked back down the hill in the dusk and barely made it home before darkness fell.
So that's it so far, pushed my onsight grade up by one and my flash grade up by two, I just need to find the right 8a for me to push that redpoint grade. But honestly, if I didn't climb again this holiday, it has already been one of the best climbing holidays i've ever had, i've ticked nearly 50 new routes on some of the most incredible terrain, and this has all been crags within walking distance of the apartment!
More to come next week hopefully...
> I believe this will be the last time I do the stats for a while, before handing over to Dandan82 for next week. It's been great to read a bit more detail in everyone's posting and I'd definitely recommend taking a turn!
> Dandan82 - Keep crushing in Kaly.
Thanks Nick, I'll do my best to keep fit club ticking along, I should be able to do it for a good few weeks at least.
So, week 1 of our Kaly trip is over, and I can comfortably say it has been the best climbing week i've ever had.
I have always been keen to come out here and have heard so much about it, but rarely does something exceed your expectations so much. Every crag we go to is completely mind blowing in terms of quality and amazing lines, climbers are super friendly, locals are super friendly, it's an amazing place to be. I don't even care about 'holiday grades' and the sometimes soft nature of the grading, I would knock a grade off every route I climbed and still be dead chuffed with the climbing I have done.
M: After a warm up day at Poets, it was off to the Grande Grotta. It was a little rainy and windy so the cave was dripping a little but you could work around it on the routes. Warmed up on a 6b (6c on UKC) on Afternoon wall until we got forced into the cave by the rain. Then the fun started, first up, onsighted Trela (7a) 7a very comfortably. My first taste of tufa climbing and I loved it! The steepness interspersed with good rests played perfectly to my training, it genuinely felt like a walk. I thought I would push the boat out and try Tufantastic (7b+) 7b+ after watching our new friend Tomar put the draws in, and unbelievably, I flashed it comfortably! A new best flash for me, very pleased. I finished off with an onsight of Elefantenhimmel (7a) 7a, possibly the steepest line I have ever done, at one point you can stand across two stalactites and look straight out of the cave with the bolts stretching ahead of you on the horizontal ceiling!
T: Despite all the training and injury prevention, i'm still getting a bit of feedback from my elbows, so today was gentle one to stop any real problems developing. We went up to Spartacus and Spartan Wall as Si wanted to get on Daniboy (8a) 8a. The temptation to pull on it was strong, I did do the first 3 bolts to clip a slightly iffy draw for Si but managed to resist going any further. Onsighted a bunch of 6b-6c routes, elbows survived well.
W: Went to Iliada, a really nice sector with some hard stuff but also some great quality easier stuff for my wife to do. I had no plans to do anything hard and annoyingly my elbows were still feeling a little off so I just got some mileage in on 6a's and 6b's, putting the rope up for my wife. (she's a top rope tough guy) Si and Tomar put some work in on a 7c but left with unfinished business.
T: Rest day. I bought some snazzy new trousers, I was feeling a bit left out with everyone in town rocking primary coloured outerwear so i'm now the proud owner of some green trousers! (possibly the first time i've ever fallen victim to fashion)
F: Back to Iliada, warmed up on a couple of 6a/b's then did Oetida Extension (7a) 7a in one, the worst rope drag i've ever experienced, you are supposed to second the first pitch to clean some of the draws but I got impatient and went for it.
Tomar made short work of his 7c project so i asked him to shout beta while I tried a flash attempt. Despite the howling wind whipping most of his advice away before I heard it, i somehow flashed Padroni e Pagliacci (7c) 7c! Super chuffed with this, new best flash grade again! A really good line too, sustained with marginal rests and some good sequences.
S: Back up to Poets for another chilled day, focussing mostly on trying to find a 6c or 6c+ project for my wife, we thought we found one, described as a classic, but it turned out to be less impressive than expected with a very confusing line towards the top, and a stiffer grade than we thought; Omero (7a) 7a was possibly not the project for her.
S: Kalydna. Amazing crag, tucked into the hillside with soaring orange walls around 60 metres high. We got stuck into some great 6's, one of which was possibly my favourite 6 i've ever climbed Extra (6b) 6a+ and then went for the good stuff. First up was Nickel (7a+) 7a+ which went onsight. My wife had a go at this and got all the moves on top rope, really impressive stuff!
Next, I tried Aurora (7c+) 8a, got the first pitch onsight at 7b, awesome! I tried to continue to the 8a extension but got shut down on the first of two increasingly hard boulder problems which I couldn't even get through after a rest, not going to happen today.
Not to be deterred I put up a 6b for my wife and climbed the extension onsight KalyNikhla Extension (7b) 7b, two 7b onsights in a day! Amazing stuff. I was going to round it off with a 7a but we ran out of light, we walked back down the hill in the dusk and barely made it home before darkness fell.
So that's it so far, pushed my onsight grade up by one and my flash grade up by two, I just need to find the right 8a for me to push that redpoint grade. But honestly, if I didn't climb again this holiday, it has already been one of the best climbing holidays i've ever had, i've ticked nearly 50 new routes on some of the most incredible terrain, and this has all been crags within walking distance of the apartment!
More to come next week hopefully...
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks again Nick, yeah got over it fairly quickly.
Kind of rubbish week, my bloody calfs are horrific. Severe cramps keep putting me out of action
Monday- Mucho driving then 50min cycle into 10min run. Really good pace, very pleased. Maybe too good as
T- 30min run, managed 20min before left calf got quite tight and concerning so thought I should leave it alone a bit.
W- Cheddar, finished off The Minstrel quickly and got on Islands in the City. Another one that will go next time!
T- Cycle to work, then out to Henbury for swimming. Very good session until major cramp in right calf. Lifeguards nearly thought they would have to do something
F- Ban Y Gor, Pet Cemetary. Went bolt to bolt then on 1st RP fell off the last move, silly mistake! 2nd RP I lost all enthusiasm and dogged it to hell. Slight cramp again in left calf this time overnight
S- DIY Club! Lifted nearly 100 slabs of patio then spent the afternoon preparing soil for turf
S- Swanage, Boulder Ruckle. Enthusiasm still lacking so sticked to seconding. Did The Tool E2 5b then my mate bailed on Buccaneer E2 5b leaving me to try it. In short- didnt go well. Then he shoved a log in my face so I look a mess
STG- No more calf cramps
MTG- 7b! Its on the way
LTG- Triathlon
Ease myself back in tomorrow with a cycle to work and maybe a swim. Hoping calves behave.
Thanks again Nick, yeah got over it fairly quickly.
Kind of rubbish week, my bloody calfs are horrific. Severe cramps keep putting me out of action
Monday- Mucho driving then 50min cycle into 10min run. Really good pace, very pleased. Maybe too good as
T- 30min run, managed 20min before left calf got quite tight and concerning so thought I should leave it alone a bit.
W- Cheddar, finished off The Minstrel quickly and got on Islands in the City. Another one that will go next time!
T- Cycle to work, then out to Henbury for swimming. Very good session until major cramp in right calf. Lifeguards nearly thought they would have to do something
F- Ban Y Gor, Pet Cemetary. Went bolt to bolt then on 1st RP fell off the last move, silly mistake! 2nd RP I lost all enthusiasm and dogged it to hell. Slight cramp again in left calf this time overnight
S- DIY Club! Lifted nearly 100 slabs of patio then spent the afternoon preparing soil for turf
S- Swanage, Boulder Ruckle. Enthusiasm still lacking so sticked to seconding. Did The Tool E2 5b then my mate bailed on Buccaneer E2 5b leaving me to try it. In short- didnt go well. Then he shoved a log in my face so I look a mess
STG- No more calf cramps
MTG- 7b! Its on the way
LTG- Triathlon
Ease myself back in tomorrow with a cycle to work and maybe a swim. Hoping calves behave.
Post edited at 22:10
In reply to Nick Russell:
Anyone got anymore tips for stopping cramps? I'm stretching and drinking proper 'electrolyte' things and generally staying well hydrated
Anyone got anymore tips for stopping cramps? I'm stretching and drinking proper 'electrolyte' things and generally staying well hydrated
In reply to Nick Russell:
Strange week..
Started off as a taper week..
M: 3 miles easy. Pm: 5 mile trail run
T: 4 miles 6:50 pace. Pm: 5 mile trail run with XC team I coach
W: found out selected for GB team for world trail champs..rapid change of plans, Boston out, big training in..
T: am: 3 miles easy: pm 10 miles with 6 hill reps
F: 13 mile road run 6:50 pace
S: am 6 miles road trail. Pm: 8 miles middlesex fells boston.
S: am 4 mile easy in Boston, pm: 14 mile 4000ft ascent technical trail run
Strange week..
Started off as a taper week..
M: 3 miles easy. Pm: 5 mile trail run
T: 4 miles 6:50 pace. Pm: 5 mile trail run with XC team I coach
W: found out selected for GB team for world trail champs..rapid change of plans, Boston out, big training in..
T: am: 3 miles easy: pm 10 miles with 6 hill reps
F: 13 mile road run 6:50 pace
S: am 6 miles road trail. Pm: 8 miles middlesex fells boston.
S: am 4 mile easy in Boston, pm: 14 mile 4000ft ascent technical trail run
In reply to Nick Russell:
Lh gaston just before jugs arrive at the top? Off a weird pinch and sidepull?
If so, I was rolling across into that with my right. And skipping the clip right by it as it was really hard to clip.
Lh gaston just before jugs arrive at the top? Off a weird pinch and sidepull?
If so, I was rolling across into that with my right. And skipping the clip right by it as it was really hard to clip.
In reply to AJM:
That's probably the one, though I don't think I'm using a pinch... It's the flaring crack that really looks like it wants a right hand in it. It would be great if I could roll in with the right, but I couldn't seem to make that work. I'll try that again next time, though it'll be a few weeks before I get back up there. I suspect I'll be skipping that clip too.
That's probably the one, though I don't think I'm using a pinch... It's the flaring crack that really looks like it wants a right hand in it. It would be great if I could roll in with the right, but I couldn't seem to make that work. I'll try that again next time, though it'll be a few weeks before I get back up there. I suspect I'll be skipping that clip too.
In reply to Nick Russell:
I never spent long on it so it's still unfinished business, but I remember taking a glory ride down the headwall after missing the crossover move.
I remember a wide shallow pinch in the back of the little groove, perhaps near the bolt you don't clip, a right hand sidepull, and an outside right foot edge or smear or something by the bolt (the one you do clip). It's quite a dynamic momentum move.
Headwall is easily up there with the best bits of climbing I've done at cheddar, HBD and CC and so on...
I never spent long on it so it's still unfinished business, but I remember taking a glory ride down the headwall after missing the crossover move.
I remember a wide shallow pinch in the back of the little groove, perhaps near the bolt you don't clip, a right hand sidepull, and an outside right foot edge or smear or something by the bolt (the one you do clip). It's quite a dynamic momentum move.
Headwall is easily up there with the best bits of climbing I've done at cheddar, HBD and CC and so on...
In reply to Roadrunner5:
Exciting! Well done Iain!
> W: found out selected for GB team for world trail champs..rapid change of plans, Boston out, big training in..
Exciting! Well done Iain!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick – Finger is a bit frustrating; okay in smoe positions, weak and tweaky in others. However, got a good couple of ticks last week and now have a Parisella’s objective...
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- RRG routes: Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, something in the Madness Cave, >5.13a, Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
- Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
- 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF – achieved hoped for steady state – this week is no biscuit week.
- Trigger Cut, 7C - tick.
Last week:
M - Indoor session at Stockport to ensure absolute control over finger tweak. Warmed up, then did two of the steep V7/8’s I’d not managed before. Finger boarding. Repeaters; 4x 35 degree (+6.5kg) 4x front 2 (+0kg). Foot-on campus aero-cap. 8x 90s on/off. Skin screaming. S&C. Finger no worse this morning.
T - Rest; cinema & gluttony. Finally felt like lurgy was leaving me.
W - Productive cave session. Ticked Trigger Cut (with the kneebar – obviously!) & sit start to Beaver Cleaver. Late finish; missed dinner.
T - Finger a bit grumpy. 3 rounds of S&C.
F - Linked boulders an-cap; session needs some tweaking, but finished with the requisite powered out feeling
S - Active rest; gardening & DIY
S - Brief grit boulder with hms – super windy. Did The Sheep, 6C; so must be better than coach Randall!
Cheers Nick – Finger is a bit frustrating; okay in smoe positions, weak and tweaky in others. However, got a good couple of ticks last week and now have a Parisella’s objective...
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Increase An-cap
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups – major fail
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- RRG routes: Table of Colours, 5.13a/b, something in the Madness Cave, >5.13a, Check out “The Tube” 5.14a/b
- Boulders: The Dark Room, 7C+/8A, 36 Chambers, 7C, Be Ruthless sit, 7C+, In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Dare not speaks its name Parisella’s Objective; 8A+/B
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders – fail – sports masseuse is on hols.
- Fingerboard and S&C workouts – tick - repeat this week.
- 76.7 kg & 6.8% BF – achieved hoped for steady state – this week is no biscuit week.
- Trigger Cut, 7C - tick.
Last week:
M - Indoor session at Stockport to ensure absolute control over finger tweak. Warmed up, then did two of the steep V7/8’s I’d not managed before. Finger boarding. Repeaters; 4x 35 degree (+6.5kg) 4x front 2 (+0kg). Foot-on campus aero-cap. 8x 90s on/off. Skin screaming. S&C. Finger no worse this morning.
T - Rest; cinema & gluttony. Finally felt like lurgy was leaving me.
W - Productive cave session. Ticked Trigger Cut (with the kneebar – obviously!) & sit start to Beaver Cleaver. Late finish; missed dinner.
T - Finger a bit grumpy. 3 rounds of S&C.
F - Linked boulders an-cap; session needs some tweaking, but finished with the requisite powered out feeling
S - Active rest; gardening & DIY
S - Brief grit boulder with hms – super windy. Did The Sheep, 6C; so must be better than coach Randall!
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick.Not much grit action so far but weather de to improve.
M - nice little session at Wyndcliff Quarry. RP of Wilkinson's Sword (7a) which is an arete route so not my forte at all. Went quite easily in the end, but definitely felt happiest on the movers on crimps back to the flat.
T - cycle commute but nothing else as I'd just had 4 days on.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening. Pairs to warm up, then flashed a new 6c, a new 6c+, had attempts on 7a & 7a+ which I still have small sections I'm stuck on (both comp routes with tricky top clips). Then finally a go on a new crimpy 7b. Liked this and think it has real possibiities, so keen to go and retry.
T - cycle commte. S&C x 3, Hangboard primarily on slopers but also some pockets too - 1 long set of 7s/3sx6, 2min rest, repeat until I felt pretty beasted!
F - TCA session. Ticked 2 more yellows & fell off a lot more. On to the mothership where they had managed to reset the steep yet again with no 6b or 6b+ problems (I fib - there s 1, which finishes with a bat hang. Staff member muttered darkly that it wouldneed to be reset in case someone broke their neck on it!). Waltzed up a crimpy 6b on the side wall, Tried lots of hard steep stuff, had fun but didn't get to the top!
S - travel to Hathersage
S - met with Ally Smith at Burbage South. Conditions were not ideal shall we say - more than half a storm. We had to stand on the bouldering mats else they would blow away! Found out yet again that grit is totally different from anything else so didn't really get up anything, although I did have a darn good go at a V4 traverse before lack of feeling in my hands kicked in. Retired back to the cottage to thaw out with coffee & duvets.
Thanks Nick.Not much grit action so far but weather de to improve.
M - nice little session at Wyndcliff Quarry. RP of Wilkinson's Sword (7a) which is an arete route so not my forte at all. Went quite easily in the end, but definitely felt happiest on the movers on crimps back to the flat.
T - cycle commute but nothing else as I'd just had 4 days on.
W - cycle commute. UCR routes in evening. Pairs to warm up, then flashed a new 6c, a new 6c+, had attempts on 7a & 7a+ which I still have small sections I'm stuck on (both comp routes with tricky top clips). Then finally a go on a new crimpy 7b. Liked this and think it has real possibiities, so keen to go and retry.
T - cycle commte. S&C x 3, Hangboard primarily on slopers but also some pockets too - 1 long set of 7s/3sx6, 2min rest, repeat until I felt pretty beasted!
F - TCA session. Ticked 2 more yellows & fell off a lot more. On to the mothership where they had managed to reset the steep yet again with no 6b or 6b+ problems (I fib - there s 1, which finishes with a bat hang. Staff member muttered darkly that it wouldneed to be reset in case someone broke their neck on it!). Waltzed up a crimpy 6b on the side wall, Tried lots of hard steep stuff, had fun but didn't get to the top!
S - travel to Hathersage
S - met with Ally Smith at Burbage South. Conditions were not ideal shall we say - more than half a storm. We had to stand on the bouldering mats else they would blow away! Found out yet again that grit is totally different from anything else so didn't really get up anything, although I did have a darn good go at a V4 traverse before lack of feeling in my hands kicked in. Retired back to the cottage to thaw out with coffee & duvets.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for your stint doing these Nick.
Didn't get around to doing last weeks - not a great week anyway. This week:
M - Out climbing; various routes in the 6a-6c range.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Resting.
T - Out climbing; various routes in the 6a-6c range until rain stopped play.
F - Resting.
S - Fingerboard session - continue to gradually up the ante.
S - Resting.
Goals:
Stg (end Apr) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end May) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
Thanks for your stint doing these Nick.
Didn't get around to doing last weeks - not a great week anyway. This week:
M - Out climbing; various routes in the 6a-6c range.
T - 30 mins run.
W - Resting.
T - Out climbing; various routes in the 6a-6c range until rain stopped play.
F - Resting.
S - Fingerboard session - continue to gradually up the ante.
S - Resting.
Goals:
Stg (end Apr) - weight 11st or less
Mtg ( end May) - improved cardio fitness, weight down to under 10st 10.
Ltg (end of year) - red-point the project (7c)
In reply to Nick Russell:
A truly dismal week even by my recent standards, mainly due to work.
M: Trad climbing in the Lakes, good sighter for the coming trad season and a good start to the week.....
T: All hell breaks loose at work, did my first ever all nighter
W: Knackered
T: Boulder UK usual level of achievement/non-achievement
F: Another long day at work
S: Wedding, are lots, looked at weather forecast for Sunday and started drinking
S: Reminded why I rarely drink, Boulder UK for a short session then back to work for the evening
A truly dismal week even by my recent standards, mainly due to work.
M: Trad climbing in the Lakes, good sighter for the coming trad season and a good start to the week.....
T: All hell breaks loose at work, did my first ever all nighter
W: Knackered
T: Boulder UK usual level of achievement/non-achievement
F: Another long day at work
S: Wedding, are lots, looked at weather forecast for Sunday and started drinking
S: Reminded why I rarely drink, Boulder UK for a short session then back to work for the evening
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing fit club again this week Nick and all the previous ones!.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest
T: 3hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
W: 4hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
T: 3hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30min PE and core at wall (PE)
Easy week as on holiday so almost all the MTB was done at the pace of a 7yr old, (although it's got to be said that's not as slow as you might think, particularly coming down the Glentress red!) Back on it this week.
Thanks for doing fit club again this week Nick and all the previous ones!.
2015 aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: Rest
T: 3hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
W: 4hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
T: 3hrs MTB (Mountain endurance)
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: 1hr 30min PE and core at wall (PE)
Easy week as on holiday so almost all the MTB was done at the pace of a 7yr old, (although it's got to be said that's not as slow as you might think, particularly coming down the Glentress red!) Back on it this week.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Cheers Nick and thanks for organising these past weeks. Did nothing since the last post but get fat really. It was brilliant. Got some obvious STGs to work towards between now and late May:
Biking
Got a 63m ride mid May so need to:
- hit regular 60-mile weeks
- get some hills into my legs
- do at least 2 >40m rides to get used to the length and to give me chance to make sure the bike setup is right as all sorts of things hurt last time
Climbing
Got a 5-dayish long weekend in Scotland end May so need to:
- dust off the wires and try to get back to a half reasonable level before then
- make plans for autumn trips
- continue trying to fix my fingers, and
- noting the above injury based limitations, stick to the plan.
> AJM - Some good ticks from Rocklands. Have a good recovery week.
Cheers Nick and thanks for organising these past weeks. Did nothing since the last post but get fat really. It was brilliant. Got some obvious STGs to work towards between now and late May:
Biking
Got a 63m ride mid May so need to:
- hit regular 60-mile weeks
- get some hills into my legs
- do at least 2 >40m rides to get used to the length and to give me chance to make sure the bike setup is right as all sorts of things hurt last time
Climbing
Got a 5-dayish long weekend in Scotland end May so need to:
- dust off the wires and try to get back to a half reasonable level before then
- make plans for autumn trips
- continue trying to fix my fingers, and
- noting the above injury based limitations, stick to the plan.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Some exciting stuff this week. Great news for Roadrunner, good trip for Joughton and dandan seems to be smashing kaly up!
Cheers for all the efforts Nick, much appreciated.
Yes I got two sessions in, for once.
I had a routes session I mentioned last week where my fitness/recovery were notably lacking. It gives me a good basis for a workout though. Lapping routes, but using doe jugs to recover mid route if I need too. Will note what grades/how many next time. It was very much a feel it out session.
Again I felt I ran out of energy during the session. Not sure what's going on. I've been using fitness pal for the last couple of weeks and it's made me aware I actually don't eat enough and certainly not enough protein. So I'm actually eating more, at better times and better quality. I've trimmed up a bit too, but haven't bithered weighing myself. Anyway I'm are it'll balance out soon.
Had an auto belay session where I climbed constantly for half hr from 5+ to 6b dropping down when I felt the pump getting to a certain point. Really good session concentrating on movement and gripping as lightly as possible. All was going wll until literally the last move when I ripped a massive flapper on my left pinkie. Meant no fingerboard but has healed up now.
This week is looking tricky and its only Monday. I'll get what I can in and use the BM.
Some exciting stuff this week. Great news for Roadrunner, good trip for Joughton and dandan seems to be smashing kaly up!
Cheers for all the efforts Nick, much appreciated.
Yes I got two sessions in, for once.
I had a routes session I mentioned last week where my fitness/recovery were notably lacking. It gives me a good basis for a workout though. Lapping routes, but using doe jugs to recover mid route if I need too. Will note what grades/how many next time. It was very much a feel it out session.
Again I felt I ran out of energy during the session. Not sure what's going on. I've been using fitness pal for the last couple of weeks and it's made me aware I actually don't eat enough and certainly not enough protein. So I'm actually eating more, at better times and better quality. I've trimmed up a bit too, but haven't bithered weighing myself. Anyway I'm are it'll balance out soon.
Had an auto belay session where I climbed constantly for half hr from 5+ to 6b dropping down when I felt the pump getting to a certain point. Really good session concentrating on movement and gripping as lightly as possible. All was going wll until literally the last move when I ripped a massive flapper on my left pinkie. Meant no fingerboard but has healed up now.
This week is looking tricky and its only Monday. I'll get what I can in and use the BM.
1
In reply to Joughton:
The one thing I remember from climbing in Slovenia was...... the grades are hard! Make sure you work on your endurance for Gorge du tarn and you'll crush it there. You have more than enough strength to do the moves but a lots of the routes are looooooong.
The one thing I remember from climbing in Slovenia was...... the grades are hard! Make sure you work on your endurance for Gorge du tarn and you'll crush it there. You have more than enough strength to do the moves but a lots of the routes are looooooong.
Post edited at 20:18
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
You might need to get massaging your calves, do you own a foam roller? Try that to start with and then progress to a wine bottle (drinking contents first to help with pain relief optional).
You might need to get massaging your calves, do you own a foam roller? Try that to start with and then progress to a wine bottle (drinking contents first to help with pain relief optional).
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, some of the sessions this time of year are the worst as you're asking your body to remember what track speed feels like!
M: am - 8/9M off-road in 58:43, pm - 4/5M easy in 31:57
Tu: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:25, pm - grass session 4 x 5min off 3min recovery, 8/9M total
W: pm - 6/7M steady in 45:03
Th: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:52
F: am - run to work + strides 1/2M
Sa: am - English National Road Relays @ Sutton Park. A load of late dropouts meant we didn't have a very strong team for this but midweek the team manager told me I'd be on leg 1 which has the bonus of being like a race and is very competitive. The course had been made slightly longer this year including another hill at the start so not going off too hard was important. In the end though maybe I didn't go off hard enough as I ended up around 10 secs off the back of the front group of about 20 and in the wind at the front of the second group. About two thirds in we finally turned to have the wind behind us and at that point I pushed on with another guy picking up a few dropped from the front group. Managed to drop the guy I was with in the last K to finish 19th, 28:18 for 8.96K so 5:04 miling for a hilly course. Although I was disappointed this is only just off my 10K PB pace so on a flatter course I could be in business for a 10K PB. Run around lots after to cheer on the lads but sadly we ended up 12th. 13/14M total
Su: am - 14/15M steady in 1:42:20 - suffered from stomach pain during run which didn't help!
65M Total and think race on Sat was OK in the end after initial disappointment. Goals for the next few months:
May - 10K PB (sub 31min is stretch goal), 3K and 5K track races to find where form is
June - 5K track PB (sub 14:45 is stretch goal), 1500m track race
July - will depend upon progress from previous two months....
Thanks Nick, some of the sessions this time of year are the worst as you're asking your body to remember what track speed feels like!
M: am - 8/9M off-road in 58:43, pm - 4/5M easy in 31:57
Tu: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:25, pm - grass session 4 x 5min off 3min recovery, 8/9M total
W: pm - 6/7M steady in 45:03
Th: am - run to work 4/5M in 32:52
F: am - run to work + strides 1/2M
Sa: am - English National Road Relays @ Sutton Park. A load of late dropouts meant we didn't have a very strong team for this but midweek the team manager told me I'd be on leg 1 which has the bonus of being like a race and is very competitive. The course had been made slightly longer this year including another hill at the start so not going off too hard was important. In the end though maybe I didn't go off hard enough as I ended up around 10 secs off the back of the front group of about 20 and in the wind at the front of the second group. About two thirds in we finally turned to have the wind behind us and at that point I pushed on with another guy picking up a few dropped from the front group. Managed to drop the guy I was with in the last K to finish 19th, 28:18 for 8.96K so 5:04 miling for a hilly course. Although I was disappointed this is only just off my 10K PB pace so on a flatter course I could be in business for a 10K PB. Run around lots after to cheer on the lads but sadly we ended up 12th. 13/14M total
Su: am - 14/15M steady in 1:42:20 - suffered from stomach pain during run which didn't help!
65M Total and think race on Sat was OK in the end after initial disappointment. Goals for the next few months:
May - 10K PB (sub 31min is stretch goal), 3K and 5K track races to find where form is
June - 5K track PB (sub 14:45 is stretch goal), 1500m track race
July - will depend upon progress from previous two months....
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for the answer and doing FC for the last time. Have fun in Morocco!
STG (2weeks): RP the easy 7+ and try the new 6- onsight -> tick on the 6- new STG, go running again.
Weight 70.6
M: 3 hour hike, 3 routes on slab afterwards.
T: indoor bouldering, did 3 new routes on the magnus midtbø wall, 2x 6A and 6A+
W: outdoor climbing, 2 pitch trad grade 4+, first pitch I went off route and got horrible rope drag and got scared, but leading the second pitch went fine as well as the rappel down. This included hiking for 15km with a 16kg backpack, which left me quite knackered for the rest of the week.
T: rest
F: indoor bouldering, focussing on technique and breathing. Campussing, core and dips afterwards.
S: indoor climbing, focussing on technique and resting. Managed to onsight the new 6-
S: ski-touring 1000hm
Thanks for the answer and doing FC for the last time. Have fun in Morocco!
STG (2weeks): RP the easy 7+ and try the new 6- onsight -> tick on the 6- new STG, go running again.
Weight 70.6
M: 3 hour hike, 3 routes on slab afterwards.
T: indoor bouldering, did 3 new routes on the magnus midtbø wall, 2x 6A and 6A+
W: outdoor climbing, 2 pitch trad grade 4+, first pitch I went off route and got horrible rope drag and got scared, but leading the second pitch went fine as well as the rappel down. This included hiking for 15km with a 16kg backpack, which left me quite knackered for the rest of the week.
T: rest
F: indoor bouldering, focussing on technique and breathing. Campussing, core and dips afterwards.
S: indoor climbing, focussing on technique and resting. Managed to onsight the new 6-
S: ski-touring 1000hm
1
In reply to Humperdink: Cheers, its good to hear that! And yes I agree, I feel like I'd be more than strong enough to do all the moves on a 50m 8b stamina plod but I wouldn't be able to link half of it in my current state.
The only problem is most of the uni club only boulder really so its hard to find belayers for endurance training.
The only problem is most of the uni club only boulder really so its hard to find belayers for endurance training.
In reply to Joughton:
That's what auto-belays and circuits are for!
> ...its hard to find belayers for endurance training.
That's what auto-belays and circuits are for!
In reply to Nick Russell:
A shite few weeks, climbing-wise, due to man-lurgy and a ridiculous workload, so been on radio silence, but managed to escape skiing with my family in the Alps Last week. No climbing but still managed some indoors climbing related fitness.
Mon- 4 hours of skiing. 50 press-ups.
Tues- 4 hours of skiing. Frenchies: 3 sets of 4, 3 x 40 press-ups.
Wed- 4 hours of skiing.
Thurs- 4 hours of skiing. Frenchies: 3 sets of 4, 80 press-ups.
Fri- 4 hours of skiing. 80 press-ups.
Sat- 4 hours of skiing. 5c BM session (Yep- put the pull up bar and BM in the van..!)- 42/42. Offset pull ups (deep 4 finger and 2 finger pockets)- 3 sets of 8. Middle 2 finger pull ups (deep pockets)- 1 set of 8, 1 set of 7, 1 set of 5,
Sun- drive back to UK
Plan to get out this week onto Stanage and Burbage to do some of that outdoor climbing stuff.
Goals:
STG/ MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
A shite few weeks, climbing-wise, due to man-lurgy and a ridiculous workload, so been on radio silence, but managed to escape skiing with my family in the Alps Last week. No climbing but still managed some indoors climbing related fitness.
Mon- 4 hours of skiing. 50 press-ups.
Tues- 4 hours of skiing. Frenchies: 3 sets of 4, 3 x 40 press-ups.
Wed- 4 hours of skiing.
Thurs- 4 hours of skiing. Frenchies: 3 sets of 4, 80 press-ups.
Fri- 4 hours of skiing. 80 press-ups.
Sat- 4 hours of skiing. 5c BM session (Yep- put the pull up bar and BM in the van..!)- 42/42. Offset pull ups (deep 4 finger and 2 finger pockets)- 3 sets of 8. Middle 2 finger pull ups (deep pockets)- 1 set of 8, 1 set of 7, 1 set of 5,
Sun- drive back to UK
Plan to get out this week onto Stanage and Burbage to do some of that outdoor climbing stuff.
Goals:
STG/ MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
This will do the job: http://www.forrunnersbyrunners.com/MM-1465BLU.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O... . Basically, your calf muscle may be slightly torn due to the cramping and by rolling on the roller you'll break down any "scar" tissue and realign the muscle fibers hopefully preventing further bouts of cramp
This will do the job: http://www.forrunnersbyrunners.com/MM-1465BLU.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwmLipBRC59O... . Basically, your calf muscle may be slightly torn due to the cramping and by rolling on the roller you'll break down any "scar" tissue and realign the muscle fibers hopefully preventing further bouts of cramp
In reply to Joughton:
yeh that can be a problem. There are some shorter routes (octopus 7C+ is classic if I remember) but there are so many great lines which are much longer. You'll be rite!
yeh that can be a problem. There are some shorter routes (octopus 7C+ is classic if I remember) but there are so many great lines which are much longer. You'll be rite!
In reply to Humperdink:
Ordered one, very enlightening thanks. Only very slight cramps so far this week, or I might just be paranoid!
Ordered one, very enlightening thanks. Only very slight cramps so far this week, or I might just be paranoid!
In reply to Ally Smith: yeah the facilities for that just aren't very good in Newcastle, but if I go at quiet times I can do a few laps of the wall
In reply to Joughton:
If you can get a belayer get on the lead wall at Sunderland - perfect training for Gorge du Tarn.
If you can get a belayer get on the lead wall at Sunderland - perfect training for Gorge du Tarn.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick, and welcome DanDan! Not a great week for me as have lots of work and had to enable a grandmother and mother walking holiday. I did get quiet peaceful unmidgy trad on the bank holiday Monday at beautiful Bamford though, so can’t complain too much!
M – Trad Bamford
T – 2 mile joke run and benchpress 4 x 15 x 20kg. Good to know I still have antagonists.
W – Milton Keynes while car serviced. Autobelay pyramid (4, 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 5+, 5) Boulder to V4 onsight. Rings
T – Boulder Brookes. 10 x 1mins x 2, worked blue problems. Hangboard. Coaching
F – Boulder Brookes. A bit of a fling around really.
S – Drive to Brecon. Walking.
S – Brecon walking.
Thanks Nick, and welcome DanDan! Not a great week for me as have lots of work and had to enable a grandmother and mother walking holiday. I did get quiet peaceful unmidgy trad on the bank holiday Monday at beautiful Bamford though, so can’t complain too much!
M – Trad Bamford
T – 2 mile joke run and benchpress 4 x 15 x 20kg. Good to know I still have antagonists.
W – Milton Keynes while car serviced. Autobelay pyramid (4, 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 5+, 5) Boulder to V4 onsight. Rings
T – Boulder Brookes. 10 x 1mins x 2, worked blue problems. Hangboard. Coaching
F – Boulder Brookes. A bit of a fling around really.
S – Drive to Brecon. Walking.
S – Brecon walking.
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks Nick. Cheers for keeping FC going.
Last week:
Still mostly busy with house purchase stuff, which took up my weekend instead of climbing. But the plan is coming together, and I now only work 4 days a week, and will soon live about 2 minutes from Bus Stop Quarry. So more climbing time for me... There will be a couple of spare rooms once it's sorted, so let me know if anyone wants a climbing weekend in North Wales.
M - Tremadog. Was planning on a VS warm up, but started up the wrong pitch, and did the HVS 5a first pitch of ‘The Quakermen’, before getting back on track.
T - Repeating Wk 4 of Gym Ball plan.
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+4kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+3kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
(+1kg on all grips)
W - Rest
T - Quick outdoor after work session in the evening sun. Onsight of the two hardest climbs at the crag at 6b.
F - Rest
S - Sorting out house to move out.
S - Gym Ball Wk 5. 5x5 pull ups (+7kg). 5x5 push ups (+9kg).
STG (By May 2015)
• 2/10 x HVS
• RP 7a
• Onsight 6c
Thanks Nick. Cheers for keeping FC going.
Last week:
Still mostly busy with house purchase stuff, which took up my weekend instead of climbing. But the plan is coming together, and I now only work 4 days a week, and will soon live about 2 minutes from Bus Stop Quarry. So more climbing time for me... There will be a couple of spare rooms once it's sorted, so let me know if anyone wants a climbing weekend in North Wales.
M - Tremadog. Was planning on a VS warm up, but started up the wrong pitch, and did the HVS 5a first pitch of ‘The Quakermen’, before getting back on track.
T - Repeating Wk 4 of Gym Ball plan.
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+4kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (+3kg), 35° sloper (+1kg).
(+1kg on all grips)
W - Rest
T - Quick outdoor after work session in the evening sun. Onsight of the two hardest climbs at the crag at 6b.
F - Rest
S - Sorting out house to move out.
S - Gym Ball Wk 5. 5x5 pull ups (+7kg). 5x5 push ups (+9kg).
STG (By May 2015)
• 2/10 x HVS
• RP 7a
• Onsight 6c
Post edited at 11:50
In reply to Nick Russell: Many thanks for doing the thread Nick. Hopefully we can meet up at the crag at some point soon.
A very belated post, but generally a good week (unlike this one!).
M - Boulder - Easter opening hours so only a short session. 5x Blue tags ticked.
T - Routes & Boulder - Another four goes on the crimpy f7a. Good training but only slight progress. Another 6x Blue tags including a jump start which I absolutely hate (only a handful left).
W - Boulder @ Huntsham - Flashed a handful of easy lines then worked moves on Ames Low up to final span. Quality problem, so will try to get back (with spotters) in the next few weeks.
T - Routes @ Reading - Fairly easy session including a play on the big roof.
F - Boulder @ Burbage South - Evening session up to V4.
S - Boulder @ Robin Hood's Stride - Evening session including flashing several V4 arêtes.
S - rest (no skin left!)
This week has been poor so far, but next week I have plenty of free time, so hopefully some SW sport, provided I can find partners (anyone from Fitclub free?).
A very belated post, but generally a good week (unlike this one!).
M - Boulder - Easter opening hours so only a short session. 5x Blue tags ticked.
T - Routes & Boulder - Another four goes on the crimpy f7a. Good training but only slight progress. Another 6x Blue tags including a jump start which I absolutely hate (only a handful left).
W - Boulder @ Huntsham - Flashed a handful of easy lines then worked moves on Ames Low up to final span. Quality problem, so will try to get back (with spotters) in the next few weeks.
T - Routes @ Reading - Fairly easy session including a play on the big roof.
F - Boulder @ Burbage South - Evening session up to V4.
S - Boulder @ Robin Hood's Stride - Evening session including flashing several V4 arêtes.
S - rest (no skin left!)
This week has been poor so far, but next week I have plenty of free time, so hopefully some SW sport, provided I can find partners (anyone from Fitclub free?).
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Morning Camper,
Let me know when you're planning to 'Sham it up, I'm always up for a session there. I'll probably get out there this Sunday and then on Wednesday or Thursday evening next week. If anyone else is keen for a Huntsham session, let me know.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
Let me know when you're planning to 'Sham it up, I'm always up for a session there. I'll probably get out there this Sunday and then on Wednesday or Thursday evening next week. If anyone else is keen for a Huntsham session, let me know.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Nick Russell:
Morning Campers,
Thanks for your Fit Club stint there Nick, it's been very motivating so far - long may that continue.
Right then, last week eh?
Training Diary WC 06/04/15
Lakes Holiday Week
My plan wanted this to be a rest week; it wasn’t, it was an awesome week!
Monday – 5KM walk in to The Great Moss, Eskdale for 2 night wild camp. Carried approx. 35kg of the lightest boulder mats, climbing gear, sleeping equipment, ravioli and red wine known to man! Evening bouldering session at Sampson’s Stones – good session and some progress on a project called Axions (7A+), gained a bruised thigh in starting thigh scum/bar move.
Tuesday – Fantastic Grade 3 scramble up the South East Slabs of Ill Crag with the good lady wife. Moved together on immaculate rough rock with sufficient grassy ledges for sandwich stops. Topped out at the summit of Ill Crag – first top of the year – realised how much I miss the mountains – one LTG fully activated!!!
Wednesday – Back on Axions. Beasted myself on it. Tried various different sequences but no joy. Ended up fixing the good lady wife’s rock boot to my thigh with electrical tape as an improvised thigh pad as my bruise hurt so much (woe is me), it was a great look. Sampson Stones is AMAZING – go there! 5KM walk out with about 30kg of kit on my back (less wine and ravioli).
Thursday – Active rest day on the fabulous Brown Slabs at Shepherds Crag. The good lady wife’s brother’s first time multipitching. Climbed 2 Diffs and a V Diff. A marvellous day, great to be moving continuously on rock, slotting the gear home and enjoying the view.
Friday – Bowderstone – forget the view, let’s pull hard. Fell off of Statstick (7A) a lot (an old nemesis) and then, with help from a lovely local, got really close to sticking the first (and hardest) move on Impropa Opera (7B or 7C – can’t work out which) – another project!
Saturday – York Park Run: 5KM in 19:06 – course PB. Well stoked with this after a busy week.
Sunday – Almscliff. Got up early to beat a band of torrential rain that was forecast. Rode out 3 showers in two hours on Underhand. Got to within one small move (last move of crux sequence) of glory but felt well solid up to that point. Need to get the crux wired next visit and then send it the day after – a weekend at the Outlaws is required.
Goals: Missed out on two STGs getting done by Easter - Between the Lines and Underhand but getting close on both. Now fully fired up for more mountain trips so have a LTG that's kicking in too.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Campers,
Thanks for your Fit Club stint there Nick, it's been very motivating so far - long may that continue.
Right then, last week eh?
Training Diary WC 06/04/15
Lakes Holiday Week
My plan wanted this to be a rest week; it wasn’t, it was an awesome week!
Monday – 5KM walk in to The Great Moss, Eskdale for 2 night wild camp. Carried approx. 35kg of the lightest boulder mats, climbing gear, sleeping equipment, ravioli and red wine known to man! Evening bouldering session at Sampson’s Stones – good session and some progress on a project called Axions (7A+), gained a bruised thigh in starting thigh scum/bar move.
Tuesday – Fantastic Grade 3 scramble up the South East Slabs of Ill Crag with the good lady wife. Moved together on immaculate rough rock with sufficient grassy ledges for sandwich stops. Topped out at the summit of Ill Crag – first top of the year – realised how much I miss the mountains – one LTG fully activated!!!
Wednesday – Back on Axions. Beasted myself on it. Tried various different sequences but no joy. Ended up fixing the good lady wife’s rock boot to my thigh with electrical tape as an improvised thigh pad as my bruise hurt so much (woe is me), it was a great look. Sampson Stones is AMAZING – go there! 5KM walk out with about 30kg of kit on my back (less wine and ravioli).
Thursday – Active rest day on the fabulous Brown Slabs at Shepherds Crag. The good lady wife’s brother’s first time multipitching. Climbed 2 Diffs and a V Diff. A marvellous day, great to be moving continuously on rock, slotting the gear home and enjoying the view.
Friday – Bowderstone – forget the view, let’s pull hard. Fell off of Statstick (7A) a lot (an old nemesis) and then, with help from a lovely local, got really close to sticking the first (and hardest) move on Impropa Opera (7B or 7C – can’t work out which) – another project!
Saturday – York Park Run: 5KM in 19:06 – course PB. Well stoked with this after a busy week.
Sunday – Almscliff. Got up early to beat a band of torrential rain that was forecast. Rode out 3 showers in two hours on Underhand. Got to within one small move (last move of crux sequence) of glory but felt well solid up to that point. Need to get the crux wired next visit and then send it the day after – a weekend at the Outlaws is required.
Goals: Missed out on two STGs getting done by Easter - Between the Lines and Underhand but getting close on both. Now fully fired up for more mountain trips so have a LTG that's kicking in too.
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Joyce: Cheers for the invite. If no-one is up for sport tomorrow, I might see you there...
In reply to Nick Russell:
Thanks for doing FC Nick.
Didn't post cos thinking it mightnt be for me any more, been struggling with motivation and stuff. Last weekend was quite tough but triggered some big changes.
For what it's worth this is my "training diary" for the week that ended last Sunday.
M-Robin Hoods Stride with family and non-climbing friends. Lovely day out. Only vaguely difficult thing climbed was Razor Roof, 6C.
T-nowt
W-nowt
T-Works climbed all pinkles in about 45 minutes
F-nowt training, ate too much chocolate
S-nowt training, ate too much chocolate
S-nowt climbing, decided to adopt a healthy "plant based diet" to give structure to a number of areas of my bad eating habits.
Weight - did not weigh myself
Thanks for doing FC Nick.
Didn't post cos thinking it mightnt be for me any more, been struggling with motivation and stuff. Last weekend was quite tough but triggered some big changes.
For what it's worth this is my "training diary" for the week that ended last Sunday.
M-Robin Hoods Stride with family and non-climbing friends. Lovely day out. Only vaguely difficult thing climbed was Razor Roof, 6C.
T-nowt
W-nowt
T-Works climbed all pinkles in about 45 minutes
F-nowt training, ate too much chocolate
S-nowt training, ate too much chocolate
S-nowt climbing, decided to adopt a healthy "plant based diet" to give structure to a number of areas of my bad eating habits.
Weight - did not weigh myself
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
Morning Camper,
Will be there from about 1, in my usual spot on the little rock opposite the Sliced Slug, with coffee in one hand and chocolate in the other and waffling on, unless I'm having a rest, in which case I'll be working the moves on Ames High or Ames Low
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
Will be there from about 1, in my usual spot on the little rock opposite the Sliced Slug, with coffee in one hand and chocolate in the other and waffling on, unless I'm having a rest, in which case I'll be working the moves on Ames High or Ames Low
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to Joyce: Have sorted a partner for sport tomorrow but have fun and hopefully meet up at another time.
We are heading to Brean, is anyone else from fitclub going to be there?
We are heading to Brean, is anyone else from fitclub going to be there?
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Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...
26 Apr
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