UKC

Just had a nosey at the quarry this evening and spotted a potentially fatal hazard on The Birdman of Minfford (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=145014) on the main slab.

Near the top, after the main crux about 3/4 of the way up, there is a huge stack of loose rock - some of which are handholds. When I saw this firsthand, I put in a last draw and just retreated. I noticed before I reached the bolt above that there's a suspect lone shrub that took root around the affected area - it's probably holding a lot of it together.

We did consider abbing from the top and cleaning it but we didn't make it to the top of the quarry. Is anyone on here local to the area? This desperately - and I'm not saying that lightly - needs a proper cleaning cos the belayer is right in the firing line of some huge buggering rocks. It would be perfect if this info could be spread to anyone thinking of visiting.

Oh yeah, and Map of The Problematique is bloody amazing. Try it if you haven't already.

In reply to Owen240:

Who said that sport climbing is safe?!

In reply to Owen240:

But seriously, did you consider leaving comments on both route The Birdman of Minffordd (6c+) and the crag Penmaenbach Quarry itself?

In reply to PPP:
I'm on it. I hoped there would be some crag regulars on here too.

Oh well climbing in general is never gonna be 'safe' but if you can sort out some of these extraneous variables, it's even better. It's such an easy fix and could be done by hand considering I almost did it accidentally myself.

In reply to Owen240:

On the logbook page, the comment just below yours seems to read pretty much exactly the same - but from 12 months ago !

In reply to Owen240:

Thanks for reporting this and I'm glad that you enjoyed 'Map of the Problematique.'

I've marked 'The Birdman of Minfordd' as a DANGEROUS ROUTE on the UKC database which I moderate.

I'm busy with another big bolting project at the moment + it's Expedition season at work so won't have time to go and sort this one out. Would be great if any local climbers could volunteer to throw a rope down it to trundle the loose blocks and possibly put some new bolts in?

The routes at Penmaenbach are getting a lot more attention since the North Wales Limestone guide was published which is great. A few more Easy sport routes from F2 to 6c were added last Autumn which are not in the new guide link to Topo here...

http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Penmaenbach-A55-topo-V2....

In reply to Owen240:

Shared on a few local facebook groups

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I might be able to get over tomorrow to have a look and maybe ab in from above and kick some debris off. I'll let you know what happens.

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks Ron

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Thanks Ian. And cheers to everyone else for spreading this around

In reply to Owen240:

Has anyone heard from Ron? Hope he's ok

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Yes, I'm OK. Went up alongside to have a look. The immediate issue is some loose holds around ?2x1x1 ft on the underneath of the overhang - they have pulled around 1-2 inches down from their original position and look like dropping imminently. However it does look like the whole of that overhanging/overlapping section could also be loose, and theres a lot of loose stuff around the base of the trees above.

Too loose for me to want to go abbing on there on my own I'm afraid, especially since once any loose stuff is removed the route may need regrading / possibly rebolting.