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Any good training apps

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 stp 23 Apr 2015
I'm wondering if anyone uses something like a training app to log training sessions. I imagine there are hundreds out there so which ones would be most suitable for climbing: logging climbing sessions and exercises and monitoring improvements. Or is an old school notebook and pen still the best way to go?
 planetmarshall 23 Apr 2015
In reply to stp:

If you have some idea of what you're after I could start working on something. Currently I just use Excel, but there are benefits to having an app. I don't have the facility to develop for iphone currently, though. It'd be Android and Windows Phone only.
In reply to stp:

www.trackyourclimb.com is quite good.
OP stp 23 Apr 2015
In reply to planetmarshall:

An article on ClimbStrong.com about quantifying boulder problems made me think about this. This calculates four things: number of problems climbed, a total number of grades added together (using the V system is straightforward), the average grade climbed, and the 'session density' based on the time taken.

With a phone or tablet with you, you could tick off what you'd done as you go along with a clock timing your session too. The results would be stored and dated and could be output to graphs to map your progress.

Unlike weight training seeing improvement from session to session is not so easy with climbing. It's not as simple as just counting reps and sets and going up a grade tends to happen fairly infrequently. However recording what you do like this I think you could see improvements more regularly. Seeing such improvements motivates one to keep going and also gives one goals for each session.

The same thing would work for routes too of course.

I suppose a developed app would also have input for exercises too, campusing, weights, rings etc.

The article: http://climbstrong.com/articles/20150313
OP stp 23 Apr 2015
In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Yeah looks OK though not as much detail I think. Also being on the web you could only use it with an internet connection - not an option with a tablet at crag for example.
In reply to stp:

> Yeah looks OK though not as much detail I think. Also being on the web you could only use it with an internet connection - not an option with a tablet at crag for example.

I log the session from a PC when I get home which is very fast. They say they are developing an app, they have code on their website which collects suggestions and prioritises them and then they work through the list. It is getting better over time. The best thing is that it is really easy and fast to log a session so you tend to do it. I've a feeling if they made it more complex to try and get more 'accurate' stats and as a result it took longer to log sessions I wouldn't use it as much.

I thought I'd want an app rather than a website too but in practice I don't want a phone in my pocket when I'm bouldering and potentially falling off stuff or to keep taking a phone out after every problem. Maybe an iWatch app would be perfect
 Oogachooga 24 Apr 2015
In reply to stp:

Vote for notebook and pen. If you're feeling posh then a highlighter for when you've crushed the blue route on the overhang.
capnkroaker 07 May 2015
I recently released this (free) app on to the iOS App Store. I put it together to help me quantify my own training along the lines of that Climb Strong article. I find it easier to achieve goals if I can quantify them in some way.

https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/climb-for-points/id980882994?ls=1&mt=8

I use it both in-session where I tend to tuck it in my bouldering chalk bag pocket and log problems in batches of 4 or 5 (as in I do 4 or 5 and then quickly log them) and I've also used it after the fact.

I've got a few more features planned (session intensity and some better graphs) but I'd love to hear any feedback.
eivrol 07 May 2015
In reply to capnkroaker:

just out of interest, when writing an app, game why do people save it only for the latest IOS??
capnkroaker 07 May 2015
In reply to eivrol:

My personal perspective: if it's a freebie it's to minimise hassle to be honest. And iOS users, historically at least, tend to upgrade fairly quickly. For the commercial projects I've worked on I've generally looked at what the intended customer base is using but never had to target anything older than one major version back. Others might have different experiences, guess it depends on your market.
OP stp 09 May 2015
In reply to capnkroaker:

Sounds good. Any chance it will be available for Android?

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