UKC

I'm off for a long weekend in the Gower this weekend.

I have a new guidebook which I've been perving over, but would like some insider knowledge about the not-to-be-missed climbs to head straight for.

I climb at max E1/2, but am interested in anything of quality really - if you've had a good time on a route, please share!

I'll make a ticklist out of the results so that people can use it for future reference.

Cheers!

In reply to Blake:

get to lewes castle isis VS, Osiris HVS and SW deidre HVS all come recommended, its some of the best rock at the gower IMO.

Scavenger VS is pretty good too although better line than climbing IMO. Assasin HVS is supposed to be rather good too.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Arch slab is better climbing than line...

In reply to Blake:
Here's a set I compiled, covers best of Sport and Trad in the Rockfax Orange Zone (HS - HVS, F5 - F6a+). I've climbed almost half these and am confident they offer some of the best climbing on Gower (which excels in the mid grades).
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=965

In reply to The Ivanator:

Fantastic feedback so far folks - many thanks, just noting them all down.

Love to hear more routes that people have had a good time on, so feel free to keep suggesting!

In reply to Blake:

lazy Sunday afternoon in Fall bay.

In reply to Blake:

Under Milk Wood
(has some actual climbing on it as well, definitely worth the 4b!)

Just remember to a) bring all your biggest cams, and b) place them as soon as possible. Your second can bring them up, after all... :P

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Osiris currently has fulmars and jay's nesting under the roof. We did Isis last weekend and they tolerated us, but wouldn't have wanted to go much closer.

Also there were two peregrines nesting just by the second belay on East Ridge on Great Tor - they weren't too happy with us even being at the base of the route so we decided to leave it.

There's a free 2.5 DMM 4CU at Juniper though...

In reply to Robin Woodward:

yeah I forgot about all the fulmers in that area. SW deidre was OK when we did it but some routes around there were out and I remember one fulmer being quite close by to one of the routes we did.

In reply to Blake:

Great Tor in the Three Cliffs Bay area is probably the main multipitch in the area (4/73m). Not particularly hard, but lovely views and great exposure.

In reply to Blake:

for something a little bit different superdirect at little tor is a good fingery E1 more akin to slate than limestone climbing, and the severe to its left (scout crack I believe?) is a worthwhile route as well with great foot jamming while you are there.
Osiris is proably the must do route of the gower, low in the grade but spectacular (best done in 1 pitch if your ropework is adequate and your second is competent

In reply to Webster:
Osiris is the best route I've done at the gower, although I've not done all that many. The outlook from the top of the crag is awesome as well.

In reply to Blake:

In addition to the ticklist above a few personal thoughts:
Thanksgiving on upper Jacky's Tor (a soft HVS) is fantastic - as you would expect of a Pat Littlejohn route - the other routes on that crag are decent too. Nearby Block Buttress (Mewslade) has a couple of gems (South Pillar Rib HS & Kaiser HVS).
The classic VSes Scavenger and Osiris are worth seeking out, although sounds like resident birds might be putting Osiris off the radar for now.
Boiler Slab is one of the better non tidal venues, Direct (VS) is a particularly nice line.
Assassin is awesome, Juniper Wall is one of the most impressive Gower crags - I need to return and finish Assassin after backing off the lead a couple of years back, the VSes on Juniper are decent too.
Paviland is very esoteric, avoid if you prefer clean rock to vertical gardening.
Don't ignore the Sport options, particularly the recent developments at Rhossili (Shipwreck Cove, Castaway Cove and Mermaid Wall), these offer idyllic climbing straight off golden sand, but they are very tidal. The developments here are more recent than the guide, but there are topos on the SWMC site, Mermaid Wall is particularly good in the F5 - F6b ish area, link to topo here http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/wiki/Rhossili_Sea_Level#Mermaid_...
From personal experience I'd recommend Dawson's Corner F5, Lemon Sole F6a and the Naughty Corner F6a. Southgate area and Third Sister in the Paviland Valley are also good Sport Venues, and unlike many British Sport venues offer good climbing in stunning surroundings.

In reply to The Ivanator: Pedantic correction to avoid confusion: Last of the recommended routes on Mermaid Wall should read Naughty Step F6a, not Naughty Corner (which is an unstarred F4 on the same crag).

In reply to Robin Woodward:

I don't seem to be able to edit my post (maybe because someone has liked it?) but I got Isis and Osiris the wrong way around (we did the VS on the right, and the birds were on the HVS further left).

In reply to Robin Woodward:

Fall-bay/Mewslade in general is the place to spend at least a day, nice mix of grades and tidal/non-tidal routes.

Osiris is THE route of Gower. Well, actually the direct finish (Lazy Sunday Afternoon) is THE route of Gower, but it's might be a bit out there for the OP. It's pretty safe though and not so hard, it just needs a bit of confidence. It's certainly easier than the "E1" to the right, Seth, which would be E3 5c if it were 50 miles further to the west.

Juniper Wall is great but only really worth a visit if you can tick the E2s that are to the left of Assassin, neither of which is particularly easy; the majority of the other routes are rather samey. It's a nice bit of rock though, and usually sheltered from the prevailing SW winds.

Paviland is of course worth a visit if only to laugh at the vegetation, before realising that the many of the routes are actually very good - East Gully Groove is a cracking HVS and Shelob is unique.

Three Cliffs for an easy day in the sunshine, though all the routes now are getting very polished. Arch Slab has one unforgettable move but otherwise Scavenger deserves it's praise as one of the best VSs in S.Wales.

Little Star Wall is a gem but is very small and a long way to walk, I'm not sure I'd recommend it for a weekend trip, unless you go with a bucket and spade and make a day of it on the beach.

The multipitch adventure up Great Tor is fine if you like mountaineering, but much of the line is rather artificial (i.e. you can avoid most of the difficult bits) and the 4 pitches feel artificially short.

I agree that Boiler slab is the best venue for non-tidal lower grade stuff, though when the wind is blowing it can be bitterly cold. The VDiff on the left was my very first outdoor route, climbed on a top-rope about 25 years ago

In reply to Blake:

All the one star and above Gower routes from S-HVS

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=845

In reply to Blake:

Thanks for all the feedback everyone - I set off on the friday evening with my tent and a guidebook full of post it notes of your tips.

Fought with the weather, but got some classics done:

Saturday: Arch slab, Scavenger, Isis, Osiris - all 4 of these are absolutely great routes with interesting moves on great rock. Had an epic on Osiris - started hammering down while I was under the roof and I had no idea until I tried to pull over on wet slippy holds. Certainly didn't feel like VS territory.

Sunday: Rained most of the day, but in between spells did some hiking with a couple of routes. Assassin - steep, powerful and delicate with great exposure. Went to do Hitman, but it hammered it down. Drove along to Rhosili and went to Trial Wall and Retribution Wall. All was a bit wet, but decided to do an 'easy VS' laughing spam fritter... was a bit damp and slimy, felt desperate for the grade! Will have to go back and do it in the dry to see if i was just being a baby.

Monday: Back to Rhosili with the whole gang to climb on the easy bolted beach crags - Mermaid cove, Shipwreck cove etc. What a great little spot, pleasant climbs in all grades from 3 to 8b! All the kids etc were there and we all had a fab time clipping bolts on the sand listening to the waves before being forced to retreat by the tide. Worms head for a quick shandy before driving home.

All in all, hard work with the weather... was cold and wet at times, but feel like with a bit of elbow grease I sampled the classics and got to know the area well for future visits. Similar sort of rock to Pembroke, that fine grippy grey limestone... beautiful surrounding, friendly locals and decent pubs. A good way tio tick boxes with the family as the beaches are superb while you take off with your mates.

Cheers for the tips guys - all the ones I didn't do are sitting in the book for next time!

Blake

In reply to Blake:

Yaay! Great trip!