UKC

I'm going to be in Scotland for a week or so over the summer.. I'm seeing a friend off on her 'End to End' Challenge, and then free to travel around.
Does anyone have any recommendations of where might be worth a visit whilst I'm that far north, horror stories of midges are putting me off slightly, but it's not often I get up that far that it seems a shame not to try...
Thank you for your help...

In reply to clare_bear:

First rule of climbing in Scotland in summer, do not camp.

Bouldering in peat bogs no thanks!, having said that Reiff, picture stanage by the sea, but better, nice sea breeze is quite pleasant.

In reply to clare_bear:

No idea what grade you climb, so here some suggestions for larger venues with quality problems across the grades:

Seaside - Portlethen (near Aberdeen) lots of probs, short access, spotter useful, tidal in some cases e.g. Prow boulder, Moray Coast venues Font 3 - 8's; Dumby (Dumbarton) - THE classic hardcore venue in Scotland, 300+ probs to 8B+ plus recent guide (not to all tastes as a bit 'urban', a bit polished, and a bit highball in places)
Mountains - Glen Lednock(southern edge of Cairngorms near Crieff) - 100+ problems Font 3 - 7C+, great location, critical you check access notes on UKC, midgey in summer but OK if breezy; Torridon (far NW), great venue, lots of good problems all grades plus tons of development opportunities, recent guide, can be somewhat midgey in summer

John Watson Bouldering in Scotland Guide useful as intro to lots of places but comprehensive problem coverage scattered, some useful stuff on https://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Guides and development stuff on John Watson's blog. Worth posting on UKB as well around specific venues or with general query.

In reply to clare_bear:
The truth: bouldering in Scotland is mostly esoteric, in the true sense of the word (not the common climbing application that means it's just shite).

There is lots of good stuff scattered around, but it is scattered.

If you want quality in high concentrations in the 7s, with a minimum of bogtrudging, then really classy venues are few and far between, but Dumbarton Rock, Torridon Celtic Jumble and Reiff in the Woods definitely stand out. Some would say Dumby is an acquired taste, but regardless of problem quality the other two are stunning places to climb.

Breeze is essential

In reply to clare_bear:

Take an umbrella.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Thank you all for your tips... anything mid to high 7s would be great... Reiff in the woods being described as Stanage by the sea sounds amazing!

In reply to clare_bear:


That'll be standard Reiff. Reiff-in-the-Woods is a joke name (riffing on Kyloe, I've always assumed). It's a few miles away from the village of Reiff and not by the sea. I've always thought the Stanage comparison the actual Reiff is a bit strange - it's single-pitch and sedimentary and the similarities end there really. Reiff is also excellent though.

In reply to Andy Moles:
Well i guess it has rounded breaks and is very rough and grippy, the torridonian sandstone has weathered into an almost perfect climbing medium.

When i have purely bouldered at Reiff, i have found the bouldering cliff to offer some great challenges, if a tad highball, on perfect rock, Romancing the stone 7a or E3 6b in old money, really is an impeccable highball, White horses 6a is also a firm favourite, with a good sequence of moves..

OP if you do go to Reiff in the woods, Haven is a classic font 6c in a beautifull sylvan setting.

In reply to PPP:
East Coast Scotland isn't any wetter than other places in east coast UK though. Luath stone and portlethen are prob no wetter the the peak. Check annual rainfall of Edinburgh against London for example Edinburgh is drier with slightly less annual sunshine, set that off against 1.5 hrs a day more light for June and July and I wouldn't be surprised if the sunshine hours at that time of year are comparible

In reply to Andy Moles:

Have you ever bouldered at glen ogle, I'm going to be in the area soon and wanted some opinions on it.

In reply to clare_bear:

Apparently this place is a good bet to escape the midges in Northern Scotland, I've heard very good things about it!


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2jn5uHgAp7icEtIVWxRTjZiekk/edit?pli=1

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I forgot to mention that one also needs a midge repellent and a down jacket to boulder in Scotland. That would probably have been more obvious that I was joking!

In reply to clare_bear:

Avoiding the midges Rieff would be the place to go. Quite a few problems up now at the bouldering cliff (closest to the parking) on immaculate sandstone. If you haven't come across it before around 1:09 is some problems done by Dan Varian there vimeo.com/62028364 . Those are high 7s to 8Aish I think. The Start of the route Undertow however is thought to be around font 7B I think.

If you were heading over to the North East coast around Aberdeen (where I live), which is a good to avoid the midges I would advise against Portlethen (Craigmaorain). Instead either Clashfarquhar or Cammachmore bay would be better, much better problems and that latter has the best line on the coast (Optimus prime, here; vimeo.com/115435099).

Ruthven boulder near Inverness would also be a shout as if it catches a breeze midges aren't too bad as it is relatively exposed. Really good rock, best problems around 7A, with the harder problems being traverses around the boulder ( http://davemacleod.blogspot.co.uk/2013/10/ruthven-traverses.html ).

In reply to clare_bear:

There's the Cuningar Loop Boulder Park in Glasgow, 9 artificial boulders which look quite good, maybe some locals could give their opinion........

In reply to Tricky Dicky:
Are they accessible yet? I thought it was June, although the OP does mention 'summer' ... which I think we've now had!

Edit: Link added FYI:
youtube.com/watch?v=B1MhOkFRlds&

In reply to clare_bear:

If you fancy semi-remote off the beaten track I can highly recommend the bouldering below coire na caime, Liathach. There's no guides but a beautiful spot and proper exploratory bouldering.

Andy

In reply to BoulderBus:

Get there before the ferns get too high, and watch out for ticks. Lots of potential for exploration and some good scattered problems, also boulders above the railway have been explored and some stuff done see here http://glenogleboulderingscotland.blogspot.co.uk/