UKC

When cranking hard on open handed holds I get quite a lot of discomfort in the bones in my wrists. (Iget the same when foolishly attempting handstands) Any suggestions for uncomfortable wrists? Do I need a Keith Lemon style bandage?

In reply to iksander:

Given it's both wrists the probability lies in biomechanics-overload or systemic problem, most likely biomechanics. It's possible you do too many handstands and push ups which pressure sensitises your wrists to problems when you crank open handed. It may also be sensitised by something else, occupation etc. Open hand climbing should not hurt. In this case easing off on some of these activities may help. Usually it's a weakness of the wrist extensors, which then get dominated by the flexors causing an imbalance and problemos. Sometimes it's weakness both extensors and flexors. Theraband or dumbbell wrist curls is the likely answer. You want stability, and strength endurance so start 3-4 x 10 but increase by 5 reps to 3-4 x 20-30. When you are better you can work strength and power. Daily initially then decrease frequency as you feel you need more recovery. Maintenance 1-2/week. That failing, doctor for x-ray and full blood tests to check for systemic problem.

In reply to koalapie:
I would advise the reverse - see an expert first and get your problem diagnosed before trying to rehabilitate yourself. You don't know that further exercise won't exacerbate the problem.

In reply to koalapie:

Helpful advice thanks, I had an inconclusive MRI scan so I'll give curls a go

In reply to planetmarshall:

A stability-strength program is hardly going to exacerbate something which is tolerates handstands and cranking. Age < 50 low probability of systemic illness, except for AS, which is uncommon if not absent in wrists. Bilateral simultaneous discomfort with loading = very high probability of overload and or weakness problem. If you really worried then x-ray and blood tests. MRI both wrists would be expensive and wouldn't alter the course of treatment. maybe we are neglecting the kinetic chain but you would expect to have symptoms further up if it was a major problem.