UKC

Hi, a mate and I climbed The Black Chipper at Brimham yesterday and just wondered about the history of the route.

Anyone know where the name came from?

And does anyone know the history of the chipped hold on top? Tony Barley doesn't seem like a guy to chip routes, and it's in completely the wrong place to be any use as a hand hold(for me any). I found it more of a hindrance than help, and didn't use it in the end to top out. Bizarre.

Anyway, great route at a great crag, just intrigued by the chipped hold.

Thanks in advance

David

In reply to David_Gledson:

I have never found the "hidden" chipped hold at the top??

In reply to PaulHermes:

It's in an odd place, and I only found it once I'd got both hands on the top and stood up(but before the final move/mantleshelf) and was then in a stable position to look around for it.

It's a very deep(couple of centimetres) obvious chip(maybe half a metre to the right of the obvious finish), but in such an odd place.

In my opinion it'd probably be best to drop it from any further guidebook descriptions as the route climbs great without it, and it just sets people out looking for something that's no use.

In reply to David_Gledson:

I think I never found the chip the first time. My memory is sketchy - isn't it on top of the block somewhere you wouldn't think of using?

In reply to David_Gledson:

I thought the name referred to a large black jewel-like crystal, "the black chip" as in blue chip, but black.

Not sure about the chipped holds, sorry.

Andy

In reply to David_Gledson:

I did this route last weekend and having not really read the description before I didn't totally register that the hold I used was chipped until I topped out. But to be honest I didn't think it was in an unusable position, it felt perfectly logical and the best finish for the route to move right just after the little thread and finish on the top right corner of the buttress.

Think we can all agree it's a top notch route though

In reply to David_Gledson:

I couldn't work out which bit was supposed to be chipped, it's just a typical Brimham elephant's arse as far as I can recall.

jk

In reply to jkarran:

If I recall correctly - and I may not - it was a thread runner in the break that was chipped so they could get a runner to protect the finish,


Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

That seems much more likely.
jk

In reply to jkarran:

Thanks everyone, clears a few things up. The name thing certainly sounds possible, after the really prominent black pebble thing.

None of it's really of any importance though I guess , as the bottom line is that it's a great route.

Cheers

David