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Home gym

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Matrix 21 May 2015
Hi all

At the moment I am comfortable with climbing 6a, 6b on good days, I can boulder up to V3

I would like to improve to mid grades,

I have metolius rock rings dangling from a pull up bar that I bought from Argos, no fixtures needed so very easy to put it up.

now I would like to expand on my home gym to help me achieve my climbing goals, in particular the slopers kill me..I was thinking about getting a balls and suspend it to the pull up bars but can`t find anything online, I have also thinking been thing about Wooden Campus Rungs or climbing holds but I am not sure if the wall is strong enough to have them

Any advise on how to improve my home gym or thing I could at home to make training fun and achieve my goals would be very much appreciated

Thanks for reading

BM




 coreybennett 21 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Get a fingerboard, that'll definitely help
 stp 28 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Strength is very important for climbing but nevertheless it is not the only thing. Technique and the mental aspects are equally if not more important than strength. If you can boulder at V3 then you already possess enough strength to climb well above 6a and 6b. No 6c will have anything harder than V3 and neither will most 7as or even 7bs If strength is not your limiting factor then getting stronger may not improve your lead grade at all, or at least will have only limited results.

More than anything you probably need to climb more, improve technique and the mental aspects of climbing.

Learning to climb on slopers is a very specific skill and strength. Its essential for some kinds of climbing, like gritstone bouldering but almost useless for others like limestone sport climbing. The strength needed to hang on slopers is different because your fingers are in a different position and isometric training provides little benefit outside of the joint angle trained. However when it comes to climbing on slopers, as opposed to just hanging on them, then there's a lot of specific technique required too. Body position and body tension are very important for climbing on slopers and the best way to learn these techniques is by climbing on slopers.

If you can climb more regularly then do that and limit the amount of strength training you do for the moment. If you can only train at home then think about building a board to train on if you can. If that's not possible either then for general home training its probably best to concentrate on general conditioning and core strength and of course a fingerboard. Campus boards and sloper training seem too specialised for the grade you are climbing at the moment.

Finally for any type of strength training to be effective you need to make it progressive. You need to be modifying the exercises you do each week by making them harder as you get stronger: adding reps or weight or modifying the exercise.
 Cake 28 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Yeah, look to getting more climbing done if you can at the wall.
 ianstevens 29 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:
These are what you mean by "balls" - http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/lapis-rollyballs-p-1009.html
(other suppliers are available)
Post edited at 08:17
 jkarran 29 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:


What holds you back at the moment on the 6s? I bet it's not actually your sloper strength. Stronger fingers aren't a bad thing unless you hurt yourself training them but it's not where you'll make the big, easy and lasting gains. Learning to climb better is where you'll make most progress and you'll not do that on a fingerboard or any of the other (invariably feet-off, finger focussed) training gizmos you can buy. If you want to be better at sport climbing go sport climbing with people who are going well, go lots.

Anyway, back to putting up holds/rungs. Fix them to ply, not to the wall then fix the ply to the wall, this way you can use suitably sized screws and you can pick up the studs in the wall if it's hollow. A piece of 110mm drain pipe with sandpaper glued to it makes a good sloper and you can hang it from your chin-up bar. Free from most skips.

jk
 clare_bear 29 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Build a woody..... made the biggest difference to me and my climbing..
Matrix 29 May 2015
In reply to jkarran:

Thanks for the advice, the technical bit seems effective and cheap
Matrix 29 May 2015
In reply to stp:

definitely there is room for improvement on mental aspects, and true I need to make my training more progressive somehow

Thanks
Matrix 29 May 2015
In reply to ianstevens:

yes I meant those thanks !
Matrix 29 May 2015
In reply to clare_bear:


> Build a woody..... made the biggest difference to me and my climbing..

A "woody" ? not sure what you mean ?
 goose299 30 May 2015
In reply to Matrix:

She means a home made climbing
Only really feasible if you've got a spare room/garage/shed
In reply to Matrix:

Hi there, don't know if any of this is relevant to you, but the top things which have made a difference to my climbing are, in no particular order...

Eating well (mostly vegetarian) / dieting / losing weight
Giving up drinking alcohol (lost lots of weight because of this)
Buying a Beastmaker and using it regularly as part of training routine (just moved up to the 2000 woo hoo)
Bouldering lots

no pain no gain
Matrix 01 Jun 2015
In reply to goose299:

> She means a home made climbing

> Only really feasible if you've got a spare room/garage/shed

which I don't ...
 Marcus B 01 Jun 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Make sure your attach your pull up bar. Really. Do.

This has happened to a lot of people http://www.heatfund.org.uk/p/hannahs-story.html
All it takes is a couple of screws to make it safe.
 clare_bear 01 Jun 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Built mine in my garden... no spare room needed.. and folds flat with decking on the back.. (not that it ever is down but in principle means it can be put away!)
 stp 04 Jun 2015
In reply to Matrix:

Another cheap, easy to set addition would be gymnastics rings. So many great exercises you can do with these for core, pulling and antagonist training. See YouTube for some ideas. A set costs about £12 on eBay. Best fixed directly to the ceiling if you can. You can screw bolt hangars to the joists using 10mm wood bolts then just clip in with 'binders. Pushups, dips, leg raises and much more: everything feels harder because you're using those underused stabilising muscles as well.

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