UKC Forums - Tower ridge

Tower ridge

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mason_7 26 May 2015

Going up Tower ridge in June and just wondering if anybody has ever done it before and what's the best way to tackle it? Was thinking on pitching when it gets a bit difficult but was going to be moving together with placements on easy/moderate terrain.
Including Douglas boulder to.. Any suggestions?

henwardian 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

As with all these questions, it depends completely on your personal level of comfort with scrambling/soloing.
I think most people would want to rope up for Tower Gap. I guess I would say; take ropes and gear unless you are confident that you can solo anything at vdif level. Rope up when you feel the need.

I did a fair few years ago and used a rope for tower gap (mainly because I jumped across it) and climbed the rest solo. There were no moves/sequences that seemed hard for the grade and I only remember tower gap as being particularly exposed and airy.

illepo 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

i'd advise skipping douglas boulder.
really not worth the effort. also covered in black slime.

RyanOsborne 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

I agree with Illepo. It looks like a cool idea on paper, but the Douglas Boulder is rubbish. Better to skirt it and get straight on the ridge.

mason_7 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

Fair enough. Am I not missing out on anything special then? Isn't it ''cheating''? haha Shall I go up West gully then?

illepo 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

i assure you, apart from finding a sheep stuck on a ledge that is now probably dead, the douglas boulder was quite unremarkable.

As for cheating, i think the gap will more than make up for it.

the gully a little further up is the one. Will most likely still be filled with snow too.

thomm 26 May 2015

In reply to illepo:
I agree the boulder offers unexceptional climbing, but in years to come you'll look at teams skirting it and think 'I did it properly.' (A lower-grade climber like me needs all the excuses for smugness I can get.) Also, the boulder climb and the ab into the gap contributes to the general adventure.

youngtom 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

I did it last year and I felt the boulder was worth including. It's nothing life changing but it is pleasently simple climbing with satisfying exposure. I didn't follow the line of Direct Route as the chimney was looking slimy, instead we had fun just following our noses. At 200m it's also about a third of the total ridge!

There were a number of other parties on the ridge when I did it and they were almost all happy to skip it so you would probably be in the majority if you do miss it out.
It probably added about two hours onto my time so bear that in mind if you don't manage an early start.

The rest of the ridge is solo territory for all but the least confident, apart from the sections around the Great Tower. It's common to pitch the Gap and some people like a rope for the section just before from the end of the Eastern Traverse to the top of the Tower.

IainMunro 26 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:
Check conditions closer to the time, was in full winter conditions on the May Bank holiday weekend and I suspect there will still be a fair bit of snow lingering high up at the moment as there hasn't been a significant warm spell. Probably worth packing an ice axe and crampons unless you get any reports that it is completely snow free

Douglas Boulder Direct would see no traffic at all if it was on any other mountain and isn't worth the effort IMHO. Useful as a low level outing doing it as a route in it's own right

Iain

Post edited at 21:33

mason_7 27 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

Thanks for all your opinions guys. Think Im going to move together just to be safe. May pitch over the gap!
I am most probably going to see how early I get there and how wet it is if I am going to include the boulder or not. Just make a quick decision there and then really and see what how I feel about it when im there.

Hopefully there's no snow! Not prepped for winter! Been keeping my eye on this though which is handy.. Just looks very cloudy at the minute haha

http://www.visitfortwilliam.co.uk/about-ben-nevis-in-fort-william-and-ben-n...

mason_7 27 May 2015

Root1 27 May 2015

In reply to mason_7:

Since Indicator wall and Green Gully have had recent ascents I would imagine there is snow from Tower Gap up to the plateau. Axe and crampons would seem sensible.