In reply to Dandan:
Nice tick on Zinc Oxide Dan; and thanks for doing the stats again.
Slow progress on all fronts this week. My cough/cold is still lingering and the finger tweak is just that – a tweak I can work around – no front 3 or middle 2 holds. Ring finger needs stability from pinky & middle to be happy when pulling. Think i've found a good project to try whilst it heals up though...
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- Some hard sport multi-pitch; Taghia maybe, Naranja de Bulnes, “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum?
- True North, Kilnsey – front on board style on crimps is too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Margalef routes – In particular, La Perla, 8b+ vert weirdness. Google it!
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+),
Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe C2C or MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP options:
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
- Climb f8a on gear – Point Bank in Pembroke?
- Climb a 5.13 crack, Last of the Bohicans (13d) and Transworld Depravity (14a) in the Red. Visit the NRG (dependent on finding trip partners).
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72 kg RP fighting weight
MTG (May/June/July):
- Increase An-cap; Find some less steep 7C-ish boulders to work on this.
- Get stronger – actually do something about it and do some proper hang-board sessions you f*kctard!
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- Bolt an Orme newbie (or 4…)
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Mandela & Guns in the sky, Kilnsey (if they dry out!)
- 8b’s: Well Done finish, Straight jacket & Chimes of Resistance.
- Boulders: Be Ruthless sit, Broken Direct & Broken Trigger.
- 74 kg & 6.5% BF
STG (next week)
- Get over the chesty cough – still just about lingering.
- Get back on the Orme project.
- Keep up the aero-cap pootling and re-introduce some S&C (maybe do a comparative foot-on campus test if feeling better?)
- Aim for 75.5kg (76.0kg)
Last week:
M - Back to Malham; attempted ABH link-up; hard for 8a. Straight Jacket still damp. Coughing still.
T - R&R; less cough on waking, but resumed during the day.
W - Malham after work; super cold, damp and windy. Pete’s offer to buy me dinner if I made it to the top of ABH was just the incentive I needed! Think the link is probably 8a+ as you climb straight into Baboo crux without any rest you get on the original & Straightened versions.
T - Pull-ups, press-ups & core. Stretched.
F - Rest; Ab DOMS. More stretching.
S - Early session at Malham; Matt smashed Baboo like the 8b+ beast he is. Good to see him on the comeback trail. I played on Cry Freedom (8c); did all the moves and some short links on 2nd tie-in. Alex’s comments about there being only 1 crimp for the left hand weren’t entirely correct, but it’s definitely more finger friendly than Unjustified. Training when home:15x min on/off foot-on aero-cap with 6x varied press-ups in each rest interval.
S - Gardening.