UKC

Hi All!

I am headed to Spain for a wedding in 3 weeks, but have a week of free time after that I wanted to dedicate to some climbing.
As it will be scorching in most of Spain, I was thinking the Pyrenees would be the best bet. After a few hours of googling, it seems like the best place for summer climbing in Spain is Cavallers. I have a fairly good guidebook-Llieda Climbs, but would be interested to know if anyone has a better book.
But now, after further research, it really looks like I should be heading to Dent D'Orlu in France. There are 15-25 pitch climbs in the 5-6b range that look fantastic. Has anyone been? Would the recommend it? Is there a guidebook I could get with Topos, etc? I can't find anything, and my french sucks.
Also, if you have a better recommendation of where we should go, please tell! I will have a car, and 7 days to spend climbing, eating, and enjoyign my holiday.
Thanks!

In reply to California Climber:

Dent d'Orlu is in the Rockfax Ariege guidebook along with other sport crags in the area. It's a selected guide but there's enough to keep you busy for a week!

In reply to California Climber:

If you feel the need to supplement the Rockfax guidebook, there are topos for Dent d'Orlu here: http://cafma.free.fr/Orlu/fr_orlu.htm

In reply to California Climber:

Yes and very much yes. We spent a week out there inspired by this article:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=227
and it was fantastic.

Second the CAFMA link, although it requires some French to understand the directions. That is more of an issue for the mountain routes; I've put a few clarifications/corrections in the ukc logbook description for a couple of the routes we did, e.g.:
L'Éperon du Centenaire à la Vignolle (5c)
Éperon Nord Intégral (6a+)

In reply to jonny taylor:

Thanks, great article. 12 hour climbs are no joke.
I just ordered the rockfax book, hopefully it ships here before I leave!
How are the chalets at the orlu campground? We were also looking at airb&b in the bigger town down the road.

Have you been to midi d'ossau a bit farther west? It looks pretty spectacular too.

In reply to California Climber:

The Dent is a classic, classic place and well worth visiting - but be warned, EVERYTHING is on an epic scale. I haven't done any of the short routes (10-15 pitches), but I have done the Pilier Sud twice: first time, we got benighted in shorts and the second time was a revenge assault, which we pulled off by the skins of our teeth. There are easier climbs, on better rock.

The routes on the southern side have a steep but shorter approach - but an @rse of a descent to get back to the valley. The shorter routes on the other side involve a longer walk-in, but you can descend the same way to the car park.

Route of the mountain is probably Les Enfants, but if it's suffering you're after, go for Pilier Sud, particularly with some trad variants on some pitches. The ridge off Le Main is a corker, but the following jardin is terrifying, particularly in the early morning dew; if you stop and look around at the bottom of the abseil off the top of Le Main, that's where we got stopped (long story), which turned out to be a perfect viewing point for a legendary meteor shower.

I will never, ever go back to the Dent D'Orlu. For at least a year.

In reply to jonny taylor:

Also-
Would you recommend I bring my full rack? (I saw you did bring protection for one of the routes you mentioned). Doubles of all cams? I'm used to California climbing, so haven't ever done a big sport wall.
I understand two 60m Ropes is required to bail from any route, so I will bring that.

In reply to California Climber:

I've climbed at both Caballers and th'Orlu - both well worth visiting. Cavallers however has greater variety in length of routes and exposition of crags meaning you can move with the sun/shade as needed.

You will need a rack for cavallers to make the best of it. Th'Orlu not necessarily. I mean plenty to do solely on bolts, but if you like to get some trad then Zinkeria 6a+ is semi-equipped and Biotope de Friend is scantily equipped.

If you want to climb your max on the Dent then consider Durenadalle which upstages Les Enfants, and Itinerance, shorter (than Durendalle) but more varied in content. Both have crux pitches of 6b.

In reply to California Climber:

We stayed at the campground at Ascou round to the north. It was ok until the village held a party with loud amplified music that finished two hours before we got up to climb Les Enfants!


I haven't, no. Perhaps somebody else will be able to give some info...

In reply to California Climber:

You can get a detailed Cavallers guidebook (normally) at a book/paper shop in Pont de Suert, in the busiest street, RHS.

In reply to California Climber:


On the dent the protection can be spaced on some routes (perhaps 6-8m between bolts) and it is assumed you have a light rack of nuts/ friends/slings to supplement the bolts. Les Enfants was well bolted throughout, but the summit ridge is unbolted and we were glad to place some gear for safety at the end of a long day. Up in the mountains in Andorra, it's trad with a few pegs.


Over in Europe you won't find the same splitter cracks, and a single rack of cams will do you fine almost everywhere. We certainly only took a single set.


Yes, you'll certainly need that on the SE face. Even then, it's a serious and committing place to be - think about how long it would take you to abseil 20 pitches - so check the forecast carefully!

In reply to Martin not maisie:


Random story: as we dropped into the forest we saw a pair of climbers silhouetted against the setting sun on the summit ridge. We happened to get talking to a mate of theirs a few days later: apparently they spent 4 hours crawling through the forest on their hands and knees in the dark. Always pack a headtorch, kids!

In reply to jonny taylor:


My partner has an exceptional taste for adventure and told me not to pack the headtorch

In reply to jonny taylor:

Four hours? Lucky blighters. Once, we spent three weeks crawling around the summit: we kept ourselves alive by eating baguettes stolen from French school-trip kids and drinking Leader Price wine.

In all seriousness, a refuge located by the col at the access to the north face would make a *killing*.

In reply to Martin not maisie:

Aye lad, the most memorable outings are n't made w'out a bit o' sufferance

In reply to LeeWood:

Y'all are a funny bunch.

Given everything, would you recommend trying to get to both places, stay in Cavallers, or Stay in Orlu for the full ~6 days?

In reply to California Climber:


If constrained for time I would go to Cavallers alone. It's way more scenic, and with considerably more variety in climbing styles, both multi and single pitch, sport and trad.

In reply to LeeWood:

I agree with Lee, cavellers is a top place!

In reply to nakedave:


Did my 1st multipitch of the year there 10 days ago. Might you come down again Dave ?

In reply to California Climber:

Still quite a lot of snow on it 2 weeks ago making the descent a bit tricky .

In reply to PATTISON Bill:

Thanks all!

Surprised to hear that Cavallers is more scenic. Is the rest of the National Park nice as well?

Any particular Guidebook you would recommend for Cavallers?
This one was recommended in my Lleida Climbs book: http://campbase.es/en/escalada-y-boulder/1802-cavallers-travessani-i-aigues...
But I can't really find anywhere that would ship it to the US in time. Like Lee said, maybe I'll just pick it up when I get there...

In reply to California Climber:

Thats the one! Its a fair certainty you would get it either in Pont de Suert or Barruera sports/book shops.

Aiguestortes is a lake district unequalled in the length of the Pyrenees 'twisted waters'.

In reply to LeeWood:

Certainly will be back Lee, and ill be in touch when I am. Glad to here that you've been out, what did you do? Very keen to get profiteroles done

In reply to nakedave:

This:
El Gat a l'Aigua (6a+)

You mean Profiteroles 650m?? Could be fun, the middle part would go quickly if we could find the route !!