UKC

How quick do Scottish mountain crags dry?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Hello,

Can anyone advise if it is worth making the long drive from Sheffield to Scotland this weekend?

I'm looking to do long multi pitch routes in the HVS to E2 range.

Would like to climb on the Likes of SCNL, Ben Nevis, Etive Slabs, Dubh Loch, Shelterstone, Anoch Dubh ect.

Any idea if any of these crags will be dry/snow free if we have couple of days of dry weather?

Or should I just go to Pembroke/Gogarth...
mason_7 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Its preety much full winter conditions, probably wont be doing much climbing unless you take axes haha
 jezb1 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Judging from all the snow I'm seeing on FB Pembroke / Gogarth would be a much better bet.
 skog 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Ben Nevis and the surrounding hills seemed to have a lot of snow on them on Saturday:
http://www.ootnaboot.scot/spring2015/20150530Meall_nan_Tarmachan_Isla_near_...

The Etive slabs dry quite quickly, but the weekend forecast is currently for rain and high winds there; it looks like it could be quite cool on all of the higher crags.

The forecast could be wrong, of course!
 Bob 02 Jun 2015
In reply to skog:

Where the **** did that forecast come from? Up there biking this weekend
 skog 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Bob:
East looks like it could be better, if you're mobile.
Post edited at 11:31
 Bob 02 Jun 2015
In reply to skog:

Biking up the WHW to Ft William and have train booked for return. Oh, well ...
 Roberttaylor 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Put it this way...my mates were road tripping around Scotland last week and intended to spend this week up north too. They are in Pembroke at the moment.

R
Thanks all...

Anyone know how quickly Shelterstone, Hell's Lum and the Northern Corries dry?

I'm not sure why neither Gary Latter's books or the SMC definitive fail to mention how quickly crags dry/come into condition. The cynic in my thinks it is yet another ploy to keep marauding Sassenachs south of the border!
 Bob 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

The correct answer is of course: it depends. At this time of year you are going to get lots of snow melt so few of the crags are likely to be generally dry though some routes might be. Later in the year you are only having to contend with rain and a day might be enough - I've been hiding from the rain at Glenmore and with the clag down yet three hours later we were climbing The Needle with any dampness rapidly vanishing.
 DannyC 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: All three of those crags take a while to dry I'm afraid. Only Hells Lum is south(ish) facing and it will currently have a lot of snow on top of it I reckon. There are quicker drying mountain areas (we'd a great day rock climbing on a very dry Buachaille 9 weeks ago!), but as others have said, the forecast is not your friend. Sorry!
D.


 Simon Caldwell 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Hell's Lum 2 weeks ago (and it's been cold since with some more snow)
https://www.facebook.com/LomondMRT/posts/10155744397380556

my guess would be your best bet (if it stays dry) would be somewhere south or west facing in the NW Highlands. Carnmore perhaps?
 Dave Musgrove 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

After yesterday's torrential rain, and snow above about 2500 feet, I'd wait at least 3 days. Slabs and walls may dry quicker but the cracks and grooves could take a week to dry out. I drove home from Oban to Leeds yesterday and I've never known such consistently heavy rain in the summer months in Britain. I believe its due to get a bit better from Thursday?
 Webster 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

I think we are many weeks away from the high mountain crags being in anything resembling summer condition, and i expect axes will be needed for approach/descent on many of the highest crags for much of the summer so i dont think there are going to be many E2's climbed on the ben this year!

i saw a picture of the Norries from yesterday or today looking whiter than they did for much of the winter, and hells lum takes allot of drainage hence being an ice crag...
 planetmarshall 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

The Chasm (Summer) (VS) should be fun.
 CurlyStevo 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Webster:

Carn Dearg buttress routes can often be climbed on the same day as many of the higher ice lines in late spring.
 CurlyStevo 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

for future reference the only fairly quick drying crag of that lot is Etive Slabs.

For slightly warmer less windy weather the quickest drying mountain crags I know of are:
Cir Mhor South face Arran
Beinnen Shaus
Rannoch Wall
The Cobbler
Garbh Bheinn south wall
Stag Rocks is ok too
 DannyC 02 Jun 2015
In reply to CurlyStevo:

All good recommendations.
 Michael Gordon 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

The routes on the main bastion of the Shelterstone dry fairly quickly (Central Slabs take a bit longer).
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Which ones are they? Needle?
 Michael Gordon 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Needle, Steeple, Haystack and I'd imagine the harder ones too. Would probably still leave a day to make sure, but hey that's quick for Scotland!
 shantaram 02 Jun 2015
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Carnmore is a good recommendation and has some great routes in your grade range. It drys relatively quickly, is low lying and south facing. If you were happy with single pitch routes Diabeg has some class fast drying routes that are worth the drive.
In reply to shantaram:

> Carnmore is a good recommendation and has some great routes in your grade range. It drys relatively quickly, is low lying and south facing. If you were happy with single pitch routes Diabeg has some class fast drying routes that are worth the drive.

I don't think I can face the drive to Carnmore from Sheffield for a weekend! Would love to go though...
 Michael Gordon 02 Jun 2015
In reply to shantaram:

> Carnmore is a good recommendation and has some great routes in your grade range. It drys relatively quickly, is low lying and south facing. If you were happy with single pitch routes Diabeg has some class fast drying routes that are worth the drive.

Some class 2 pitch routes too.

The drive for Carnmore is only a couple of hours past Aviemore. The walk in however...
 shantaram 03 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Another possibility is Chir Mor on the Isle of Arran. I've done it in a weekend from the Lake District. There are a couple of great camping spots beneath the crag for Saturday night and the crag drys relatively quickly. 5 ish hours drive from Sheffield to Ardrossan to catch the ferry. To save some money I'd recommend going onto the ferry as a foot passenger and taking a taxi to the start of the path in Glen Rosa.
 CurlyStevo 03 Jun 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

I'm surprised the shelter stone dries so quickly being NE facing, high up and with some veg, I've only done / attempted the citadel, that certainly isn't quick drying.
 ianstevens 03 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

> Or should I just go to Gogarth...

This is always the answer.
 DannyC 03 Jun 2015
In reply to shantaram:

Or mountain bike. You can currently get all the way to the footbridge with relative ease. Bikes are free on the ferry. From Edinburgh, it's a comfortable enough daytrip.
 Michael Gordon 03 Jun 2015
In reply to CurlyStevo:

It is surprising, yes. The main reason is that the top of the cliff protrudes slightly from the plateau so there is very little drainage. Citadel has more vegetation than the harder routes.
 vscott 03 Jun 2015
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Agree - first pitches (easy) of needle and steeple seem to seep, but above dries pretty fast, and courtesy of regular summer (and winter) ascents cracks and holds are very clean. All a bit academic as if the norries are anything to go by the pitches from the midheight ledge up will be in (thawing) winter condition...
 Jamie B 05 Jun 2015
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

There were teams on various routes on Sron na Ciche on Wednesday, still some drainage but also a fair bit of good dry rock. Wouldn't fancy it today or tomorrow though - peeing it down!

I think some of the chat about high mountain crags being off the menu for weeks is a little pessimistic, some are far more swamped by snow than others, but some will dry pretty quickly given a return to high pressure, as forecast for next week. As always it's about knowing your venues.
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...