UKC

Watching the bouldering at the weekend I wonder if the collective wisdom of UKC can resolve an argument about what constitutes 'controlling the bonus hold' in a comp. The IFSC rules 2015 say:

"7.4.2 On each boulder, a bonus point will be awarded if the competitor controls the Bonus Hold, marked as described in Article 7.2.8. The bonus point will be awarded also where a competitor successfully completes the boulder without having controlled the Bonus Hold. The Bonus Hold shall be considered as “controlled” where a competitor has made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position."

So what about this situation: a climber gets in a balanced position under the bonus hold. Keeping their weight on the holds they have already attained they stretch out a hand and touch the bonus for a couple of seconds without attempting to move towards it. A little later they go for the bonus properly, grab it and immediately fall off.

Did they control the bonus? If instead of just touching it with a fingertip they had grabbed it but still without attempting to transfer weight onto it would that count?

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

Must admit, I've done that before. It's a poor choice of bonus hold if you're able to do it that way, which isn't my fault. (am I a bad person?!)

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

I think it would count. Essentially the rule is there to prevent people scoring unfairly where they essentially jump and touch the hold.

If you've used the hold in a controlled manner (even with little/no weight transfer) then that is enough.

In reply to balmybaldwin:

That's what I thought, but my wife disagreed and reading the 2015 version of the rule and listening to the commentary on the comp where it was suggested the climber should grab the hold rather than just touch it to make sure it was awarded I was less sure. The question is what does "made use of the hold to achieve a stable or controlled position" mean. If the climber already has a stable and controlled position before touching the hold and using a free hand to touch the bonus hold doesn't change their stable and controlled position did they 'make use of the hold to achieve' it.

In reply to tom_in_edinburgh:

I think it simply means not only using the hold as you flail hopelessly before falling off in which case being in a stable position prior to holding (and staying stable) would be enough. (It would be pretty poor choice of bonus hold setting if this was possible without any weighting of the hold.

In reply to balmybaldwin:


Graeme or someone with a bit of IFSC judging experience is the guy to ask.

I think 'used the hold' is the problem here, there is no evidence to show that you have used the hold just because you've got your fingers all over it. If you are able to shift balance/ transfer weight then you've used the hold, if a climber can't figure out how to use it then even if they've fingered it for a long time, they haven't controlled it.

For example, if you can touch a hold with just the very end of your finger tip, from the side or underneath to keep you balanced whilst you change body position then you've used the hold, OTOH you can cup it fully or dig your finger nails into it but without demonstrating some change of position (even just pulling yourself up a fraction), you've been unable to use it, you've just had a very good and extended touch of it.

In reply to Fraser:

>"Must admit, I've done that before."

Tisk tisk.

I think touching while static (even at full stretch with a fingernail to the underside) "should" be allowed but it isn't in local Glasgow comps.

In reply to JLS:


No, I'd not consider or claim that as having 'reached' the bonus hold, I'm talking about having a proper hold on it in the way it was intended, just not properly loading it.

And we won't talk about those <cough> French starts will we? (Not mine I hasten to add!)

In reply to Fraser:

Here we go again slandering my kind for no good reason!!!! Just because you are sometimes a bit OCD and love splitting hairs in 400000000.

Anyways, John, it should not be allowed just reaching for it and touching something is not ticking the problem....loose Lanarkshire ethics that.

In reply to French Erick:

Lol, sorry monsieur, "I only keeeeding!" I know you'd never stop so low yourself. Now a few others we know, well ...