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Get me motivated!! Pretty please with cherries on top!

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 flopsicle 09 Jun 2015
Strength training. I have the plans, I get that it takes time, I have support, I have zero injury excuses - I'm SO cross at myself.

Overall 'you get out what you put in' resonates with me and I'm not shy of graft, I try at my climbing and I think people that knw me IRL would support that, I stay fit (despite not exactly setting the world alight wth my running), I practice. I have some head game faffs but I think they are harder to fix, harder than refusing to pull my flippin' finger out with strength stuff.

I am weak, can't do 1 press up or 1 dead hang pull up weak but I want to think I'm as tough as ol' boots so I make up for it with terrier oomph (in conjunction with running, practice, drilling, coaching... blah blah blah). When I run I pretend I'm the acest thing since sliced bread, yeah, I know I'm not but it's not slapped in my face while I'm actually running, once home I can cope with my flat out downhill speed being considerably less than MBH on a gazillion mile jolly up mini mountains!

When I climb I love the routes I can scab extra stability or even holds out of ingenuity, I love the way they make me feel but like it or lump it there are times a simple pull up would get me a flash, and then my own pedantic huffmuffery will make me redo till it's more stylish.

So I hate pull ups, I hate slow lowers, I hate finger boards (even sticking to sloper hanging). They make me feel like poop! They proper burst my bubble. I end up starting them end of day, I don't want to do it, I don't enjoy it and, so far, have never stuck to it long enough to get anywhere.

Has anyone gone from dodging the lot of it to super motivated? Anyone else truly hated it but got past that?
 summo 09 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:
sounds like stagnation, everyone gets it to some degree in any sport, normally routine is the cause or killer.

I would suggest variety. Different walls, different climbing venues outside. Buy guidebooks for places you've never been to. If you try a different wall within 50miles radius, extreme I know, but the goal is each time you complete the lap and return to your home wall, you'll have improved and opened up a huge range of routes you can do, not to mention the fact that the routes should have changed anyway.

Just throw in random variety, different time of day to climb, different partners... challenge yourself, push the rock type or style of climbing you dislike the most (normally folks weakest).

Plus, add in some training variety. Kayak, cave, rowing.... a new skill, but transferable muscle use, fitness and possibly new skills in the case of caving. If you can climb VDiff in wellies underground, you can climb anything in stickies!!
Post edited at 20:56
 deacondeacon 09 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:
If you don't like training, then don't bother. You can get a long way in climbing with mileage, mileage, mileage.
Perhaps not what you want to hear, sorry.

OP flopsicle 09 Jun 2015
In reply to summo:

Cheers! Would dragon boat paddling count as variety? Started April. I'm also going to try TRX on Thurs too. I go to both local walls, luckily I won free entry to one of them till October.

Real rock would be good but I struggle for long enough chunks of time, I have all day sundays in theory but my daughter's dad frequently lets us down so it doesn't really lend to being a know nowt but reliable climbing partner.

I'd love TRX to be amazing because I could do it from home.
 summo 09 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Training at home only works for the truly motivated and dedicated, too many distractions there, no offence, but I don't think that sounds like you just now. A bit of peer pressure until you can feel the benefits in your climbing first would probably be better.
OP flopsicle 09 Jun 2015
In reply to summo:

hmmmm.... I wonder. Time is like gold and I scrape every hr I can to climb. Running is shoehorned where climbing won't fit and paddling only considered as it doesn't clash, it's the one day I have time for 2 things - or nowt.

Maybe that's partly why I fail to launch with strength stuff, out of everything it's the one I can do at home - no peers, no strava, no laughs, just being poop at it without poopness at least raising a giggle.
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Would still love some ideas for solutions...
In reply to flopsicle:

Hi flopsicle. The first thing to do is to work on your perception of the divide between training to climb and climbing itself. You have to see it all as one and the same, and embrace the training as part of climbing.
Put up a Beastmaker at home where you can see the telly, not in a garage or out of the way somewhere. It needs to be somewhere you want to be, not somewhere uncomfortable that takes an effort.
Watch a series on Netflix while you do the hang board circuits. I've recently done all the series of Archer, House of Cards etc. and the circuits fly by with hardly noticing them.
 Mick Ward 10 Jun 2015
In reply to deacondeacon:

> If you don't like training, then don't bother. You can get a long way in climbing with mileage, mileage, mileage.

Totally agree - and trad is so much about mileage anyway.

Mick

 Andy Hardy 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

I read an article about strength training where the author made himself do 1-2 reps every time he walked into the kitchen (pull up bar over the door) over time he ended up massively boosting his pb. The idea is that for training strength you need to do the training near your max effort, while you're still fresh. By doing lots of low reps spread throughout the day he increased the total volume of training, whilst remaining fresh.

Plus it didn't take up much time.

Google "greasing the groove for maximum gains"
 Offwidth 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

I dont think you need this level of training as yet. Just climb, making sure you think about your weaknesses, watch better climbers, and always mix activities and rest to avoid overuse injury. Its hardly like you haven't just done your first depot yellow (the hard way
 RockSteady 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Do you do much bouldering? It's the fun way to get strong? When you can't do a move, focus on that move, climb up to the higher holds by cheating and try to lower down into position.

Don't know what grades you climb but from the sounds of it doesn't seem like fingerboarding at home is worth your while. Starting the 'training' mentality too soon in climbing isn't always beneficial - mileage is better.
 Bulls Crack 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Well if this doesn't I don't know what will! http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69775
 Tru 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:
Enjoyment and motivation from training comes from progress, think of a rocky montage.

The reason you are not enjoying your strength training at the moment is because it is too hard for you to stick with it long enough to promote progress. Failing to do one rep is not much fun nor is it any good to facilitate adaptation.

Make the training easy enough that you will stick with it and hard enough that you will see progress ... and therefore continue to stick with it.

Getting into bouldering is a good suggestion, try spending 50% of the time doing problems you can do in 1-3 goes and 50% of your time doing problems that are hard for you taking multiple attempts.

After 2 months of bouldering go back to the pull up bar and check your progress.
Post edited at 10:09
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

I hope this captures most responses - all were welcome.

I do quite a bit of bouldering, only really on the ropes one in three sessions for leading and then I am VERY lucky to have a belayer that doesn't climb so actually end up with more not less time off the floor.

I wouldn't trade climbing time for strength stuff, I wouldn't because actually having fun trumps training - regardless. Also as said in OP I have much less of an issue motivating myself to work on style, for 3 yrs in I'm happy with where I am with it. I have some head stuff that holds me back but I accept that's somewhere I need to progress and push my meagre boundaries.

With strength training it's one thing suggested by more than one climber I respect (and the last coaching session I had), especially as there's often a degree of surpise I can't squeeze out 1 good pull up or press up!

I spend days offering advice when people are stuck for whatever reason and to tick off a factor that's attainable and in a person's control can just shift a little balance for much more - that's why (being honest with myself) I need to pull my finger out and just bloody do it!

I tried putting the pull up bar on my toilet door (actually the only place it fits) and using it each time I used the room but then I just lost interest and didn't return it each time it was taken down to shut the door! I think it's a good plan but I'm missing something - will read the article though.

I never ran till 7 yrs ago, 36yrs of loathing running I started with a friend then got the hump with a hill, then had a baby, faffed about for 4 yrs until starting climbing, climbing motivated me to run and when that flagged Strava was suggested here and did the trick. I've lost track of the number of people who've said running doesn't help climbing, but as a food lover it sure as hell helps mine - to the tune of about a stone in weight!

I've thought about setting myself a stupid target like getting to 5 pull ups from dead hang and then seeing if friends would sponsor me for a worthy cause - it's a bit naff but would make me accountable to actually get somewhere.
 Offwidth 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:
You forgot to add that that you easily won the female vets comp, are clearly improving in the opinion of others (and for instance will probably beat my score this summer).

Some pretty high performing climbing women have been very poor at pull-ups... especially taller women who have longer levers. Maybe these people you rightly respect don't properly understand about female specific training issues. One thing you do need to be very careful with is risk to tendons and ligaments. lots of climbers I knew went OTT with training when their initial fast rate of improvement slowed and ended up injured (fingers, elbows, shoulders etc).
Post edited at 18:03
 Šljiva 10 Jun 2015
In reply to Offwidth:
It's taken me about 6 months to go from being able to one pull up numerous times to actually being able to do two without going back to the ground. Three Still feels like a long way off. Just hanging around on bars/monkey bars has done wonders for grip strength. Push up strength develops really quickly though I found. I signed up for one of these 4 week outdoor boot camps- lots of push up, squats, interval training, sprints etc. and although I was the strongest there by a long way from the start, it killed my climbing for a few weeks just because of the step up in activity level. Now, as I near the end of the second four weeks, it's all come together and has definitely helped my climbing by a grade perhaps, but I'm bored of push ups and running out of variations on a theme! Might be worth it if you have something similar near by?
 SenzuBean 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Sounds like you're afraid to commit to training and are looking for a trick - unfortunately there's not really any tricks, it's mostly just dedication and focusing on your goals - if you can't connect what you're doing to your goals you likely won't succeed.
It also sounds like you _want_ to climb harder too, and that you think strength will help. I think some basic strength work will help - IMO you should at least be able to do at least a push-up and a pull-up before needing any fingerboarding.

In my experience majority of people who can't do a pushup are overweight or have a severe arm injury (which you have not mentioned) - so I'm going to assume that you have a few lbs extra (correct me if I'm wrong). I also struggle with weight - I can so much as smell a cake and get fatter. Lately I've been a lot healthier and it's pretty much down to two things:
1) forcing myself to go to the climbing wall often (gone from once a week, to 2-3 times), and once I'm there - I get into it and have a great time. As a result, I'm sore and hungry when I get home, and I want something healthy to get my body to heal. My body craves vegetables and vitamins - not empty carbs. The more you exercise (in any form) and are in-tune with your body asking for protein/vitamins/minerals/etc - the more you will eat healthy food. It's a wonderful positive feedback loop - exercise more, you feel better, you eat better, you feel more like exercising, repeat.
2) this one is a trick, but before I would eat anything unhealthy - I would force myself to eat something healthier, normally an apple, sometimes a carrot. Then I'm allowed my sweet thing - and invariably I am satisfied with a smaller portion of sweets. Most of the time I just am happy with an apple now - and it's no longer forced, it's just "hmm, apple time!". It's very important that what you are substituting is actually better for you - all the "healthy" pre-packaged snacks in the supermarket are basically the exact opposite of what they say on the tin.

Last bit of advice is to set realistic goals for yourself. So for example with pushups - you will not magically be able to do them. The best way is to start with a "sub" pushup, where you only lift your torso from the knees. You should be able to do this. Start doing 5 sets of one rep, at the same time each day. Make it a habit and refuse to break the habit. Get this up to 5 sets of 5 reps a day, and then you start all over again working with 5 sets of 1 rep of a real push-up. Eventually 5x2, etc until you can do 5x5 pushups. Same approach for pull-ups - have a chair under your legs, and work on your progress. This way you are far more likely to make progress - and it's the progress itself that is satisfying, not the end goal of "I did a pushup". Progress is addictive, so use it to fuel further progress, which fuels further progress, etc etc.
 Greasy Prusiks 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Do/attempt one pull up twice a day ideally at a set time- maybe before you go to bed and when you get up? You'll get into a routine then it just becomes no mental effort. When the physical side becomes easy try doing two. That worked for me, I went from struggling to do any pull ups to doing 25 easily and not being able to do a press up to doing 50+
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to Andy Hardy:

I read the article - might need to read it umpteen times more as it takes for granted fluent gym speak! Sounds interesting though.
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to Offwidth:

I get what you're saying and you're the second person today to mention long levers! I was mumbling to a pal at the wall and he said the same, am I to take it my 'only ever so slight' +ve ape index is somewhat obvious? Even so, wanting to master a pull up isn't an extreme ambition. Hopefully, that I guard my fingers will at least get me out of some injury risk. There's no way I'd train more than slopers at the moment, and I suspect never - it would just feel too stupid.

The other thing that probably helps is that it did extreme levels of manual labour for umpteen years so know my body quite well. If I was a horse I'd be what's known as a 'bog trotter' not glam but sound day in and out. I've been injured enough to stop me three times in my life - a Irish Draft colt landed on my spine after a boxing match - couldn't stuff haynets for about a week! The second one was the after effect of getting bronked off into a concrete slab mounting block - couldn't change gears with my left hand for days or put my hair up! The third was dropping a belfast sink on my toe breaking it into tiny little pieces (my toe, sink just chipped). I even took a day off yard work for the toe.

I have no excuses, if I duff myself up being a numpty I couldn't plead ignorance. I'm not after doing anything fancy, just to stop being a mardy **** and get on with a pretty basic level of training for some oomph upward!
 lithos 10 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

young lass I know climbs E4 / E5, can't do 1 pull up from free hanging.
Strong fingers, hang on forever and footwork to die for seem to do her ok
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to Šljiva:

That helps - I might hang around more with my daughter in the parks (little monkey can pop out six dead hang pull ups!).
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to SenzuBean:

Definitely agree with grading it up. I do push ups against the bath!

I'm ok with my weight. I love roast dinners and eat uber large but not fond of cake, don't like sweets and choc is ewwww slimey! If I didn't run it would keep going up, I know this from experience, but with running it's stays as is. I'm about 9 and 3/4 stone, 1 -2 stone heavier than at my fittest in my twenties but it feels right for 44. I tick over well quite lean and need to use exercise as I couldn't diet to save my life! As much as I love climbing, if it was climb or eat curry, or worse still climb but no real ale.... well it's not like I want sponsorship....
OP flopsicle 10 Jun 2015
In reply to lithos:

Workin' on it... that's the bit that I have no motivation issue with, I love climbing and climb wherever I can get a climb in. Fingers are a bit pants though!
 SenzuBean 11 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Well I was off the mark - it just seems to be a training thing then! Another option that I highly recommend (highly) is to do 5Bx - it's the fitness program from the Canadian air-force they used in the 60s. Requires 5 minutes a day, and will get anyone fit in a matter of weeks. Requires no equipment, sheets of the exercises can be found on the internet.
 stp 13 Jun 2015
In reply to flopsicle:

Strength training is hard work. The best motivation for me is seeing yourself get stronger. To do this you need to train regularly and keep a training diary. Build up to your first press up or first pull up etc. There's lots of ideas about how to progress on these exercises on Youtube. If you train regularly (same exercises 3 times per week), and with sufficient intensity you will get stronger, slowly but steadily. You might not improve every workout but you should make some gains once each week.

Some climbers find this process so satisfying they become more interested in getting stronger than actually climbing.

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