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Cupboard On Plasterboard

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 mypyrex 20 Jun 2015
I want to fix a bathroom cabinet on to a plasterboard wall. There will be a brick wall behind it but no "dabs" in the right places.

How easy is it to cut away a section of plasterboard (about twelve inches by one inch); fix a wooden batten to the brickwork to provide a solid anchorage on which to screw the cabinet.

I believe this is an alternative to using plastic plaster board plugs or whatever they're called
 Philip 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:


Sounds like a job for No Nails.
2
 Ridge 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

If it's just plasterboard dabbed onto brick with a small gap, why not just drill through and plug the brickwork?
OP mypyrex 20 Jun 2015
In reply to Philip:

> Sounds like a job for No Nails.

Doubt it, I want it securely fixed to the wall but easily removable if necessary.
 mattrm 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

If the cabinet is light enough suitable plasterboard fittings will probably do the job. Check the weight of the cabinet when fully loaded with all the tat that gets put inside bathroom cupboards first tho.

Plasterboard isn't always dot and dabbed on, sometimes it's screwed onto wooden studs. If this is the case you can find them using a stud detector (cheap ones often don't work) and screw into them.

If the plasterboard is close to the brick, you could use really long screws and drill all the way through into the brick behind, insert the rawlplugs into the brick then then you're away. Again check the ratings of the screws and rawlplugs against the weight of the fully laden cabinet. I probably wouldn't do this unless the plasterboard is really near the wall.

To (finally) answer your question, you can get thin pointed plasterboard saws for this sort of job. They don't provide a neat cut, but if you cut inside your line, you can then take off the excess in small amounts and then use decorators caulk (or similar) to fill in the gaps. Sometimes also called jab or drywall saws.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-drywall-jabsaw-6/57101
OP mypyrex 20 Jun 2015
In reply to Ridge:

> If it's just plasterboard dabbed onto brick with a small gap, why not just drill through and plug the brickwork?

I'm not sure how wide the gap is between the plasterboard and the brickwork. I assume you are suggesting I drill through the plasterboard, across the void and into the brickwork, insert a plug(I usually make my own with scrap timber) and screws long enough to go through the plasterboard and into the brickwork?
 sbc23 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

Use window fixings (fisher/rawl) and fix straight through the bracket/plasterboard/gap into the block/brickwork. Screwfix or B&Q.

These are designed for an offset and the plug itself will act as a spacer.

http://m.screwfix.com/p/window-anchors-10-x-120mm-pack-of-10/15876?filtered...

Steve
 marsbar 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:
Plasterboard is easy enough to cut but if you do remove the cabinet it may not look neat.

Score with a Stanley knife and then use a pad saw. This one is what I have used.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-jabsaw-scabbard/25380

I usually drill through each corner when marking to help me keep in the right place as well, probably not necessary but I find it helpful.
Post edited at 13:51
 Wsdconst 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

> I'm not sure how wide the gap is between the plasterboard and the brickwork. I assume you are suggesting I drill through the plasterboard, across the void and into the brickwork, insert a plug(I usually make my own with scrap timber) and screws long enough to go through the plasterboard and into the brickwork?

This is fine just don't over tighten the screws as it can push the plasterboard in,you could always cut squares in the plasterboard where the fixings are and put abit of timber in as a packer but it's not really necessary
m0unt41n 20 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

I've used Spring toggles
http://www.screwfix.com/search?search=fixing+toggles

provided that you can use these at least at all four corners and they pull the cupboard tight against the plaster board then the load is spread across the whole surface.

You need enough gap behind for the toggles to open.
But if the gap is not sufficient then I do what you suggest and drill right through and put a big rawlplug in.

 obi-wan nick b 21 Jun 2015
In reply to Wsdconst:

> ...you could always cut squares in the plasterboard where the fixings are and put abit of timber in as a packer but it's not really necessary

I used expanding foam to fill the gap - no marks then if u later remove the cabinet

 Denzil 21 Jun 2015
In (addition) to Steve Clark:

> Use window fixings (fisher/rawl) and fix straight through the bracket/plasterboard/gap into the block/brickwork. Screwfix or B&Q.
> These are designed for an offset and the plug itself will act as a spacer.
> http://m.screwfix.com/p/window-anchors-10-x-120mm-pack-of-10/15876?filtered...

Also called frame fixings. I've used these to hang radiators on walls where I had drylined with insulation backed plasterboard. Poke a thin screwdriver through the plasterboard to find out what depth you need to deal with behind the plasterboard for the frame fixings - they come in a variety of sizes for different frame thicknesses.

andymac 21 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

Always terrifies me when I see a kitchen unit that's been fixed to the wall with no more nails ,and a few rawl ( plastic) plugs.

And then filled to the top with tins of beans ,complete dinner sets ,and the other heaviest objects that could be found.

How the units stay on the wall amazes me.

I fix them to death;rails,brackets ,you name it.

 Wsdconst 21 Jun 2015
In reply to obi-wan nick b:

Good idea
 Ridge 21 Jun 2015
In reply to Paul Hy:


They seem a bit expensive compared to the last ones I bought from a local builders merchant, but they are a good solid fixing. (Not sure about hanging a cabinet off them though).
 jkarran 21 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

I wouldn't cut the board away. Drill an exploratory hole, see how far off the brick it is and have a feel around with a bent wire to see if it's on battons.

If it's on battons screw into them.

If it's light then a few plasterboard anchors will do. If it's too heavy for that I'd either go with the window anchors suggested above if the board-wall 0mm you could drill anchor holes, inject foam adhesive into them then when set, drill and rawlplug the brick behind. The adhesive stops the board pulling into the brick and loosening the screws. Whichever works out easier and cheaper with the tools you have.

jk
Phil Payne 21 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:

These are good. In our previous house the kitchen units were held on with 4 of these and must have weighed about 100kg by the time they were filled with cans of food.

http://www.unifix.co.uk/products/construction-fixings/msa-plasterboard-fixi...

You need a special setting tool for them, but the tool is only a few pounds from screwfix.
 Rod Anderson 22 Jun 2015
In reply to mypyrex:
These will bridge the gap between brick and plasterboard, designed for dry lined walls, they might be overkill for a bathroom cabinet but it will never fall off these.
http://buyrigifixonline.co.uk/shop/rigifix-m6-drywall-fixings/

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