UKC

Not that I'll ever do any of them, but what is missing from this list?

Echo Wall and most of Birketts' hardest in Lakes are absent from the logbooks annoyingly.

Also, if you wanted to include what were once hardest routes in Britain, what are they? When I started climbing in late 90s, Parthian Shot was considered pretty much cutting edge. Hence I've included Beau Geast, Strawberries. What else can be included along those lines? Did Lord of the Flies or Masters Wall push the boundaries at the time?

Also included are yet to be onsighted routes, like Nightmayer.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1162

In reply to Owen W-G:
Not quite as hard, but perhaps something from Blackers Hole should be in there - Pete Oxley's Laughing Arthur (E8 6b) was pretty out there for its time, or Bob Hickish's Endeavour (8c) - the hardest Sport line in Dorset I think.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Hubble, I would think

In reply to Owen W-G:

The New Statesman (E8 7a)

Gets E9 now.

In reply to Owen W-G:

A number of other Macleod routes are missing-

To hell and back, die by the drop, both E10

The usual suspects E9

Suspect there are others too

In reply to Owen W-G:

The Big Issue (E9 6c)

In reply to Owen W-G:

Assuming you are talking trad routes you've missed out Franco Cookson's routes which would be third only to Echo Wall and Rhapsody given that H10 equates to 10 or higher.

In terms of first of the grade then there are lists but Lord was not the first E6 nor was Partheon the first E9 (probably Indian Face), Strawberries wasn't the first E7 that was probably the Bells

What are the hardest few boulders? Should chuck a few of them in too.
Winter climbs?

In reply to Tyler:


Are you trying to cause controversy? ha ha
where's that Franco basher? can't remember his name

In reply to Owen W-G:

Also Gaia?

In reply to Owen W-G:


How far back do you want to go ? They may not have been the first routes of their grade but routes such as Footless Crow, Right Wall & the Cad would all have been considered cutting edge in their day, as was Requiem (Dumbarton). As would Central Buttress (Scafell) a few decades earlier.

In reply to goose299:
No why? H grades are typically lower than the equivalent on sight E grade so an H10 is at least E10 and possibly/probably E11, cant think of any other E11s other than those mentioned

In reply to Owen W-G:

I had to laugh looking at the list when I saw that Violent New Breed has had 59 votes in the logbooks, most commenting on the difficulty, when nobody other than John Gaskins has actually climbed it. Two people even think it is easy 9a!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Missed this one:

Mission Impossible (E9 6c)

In reply to Tyler:

Has longhope direct been downgraded then? Macleod originally suggested E11 7a, did mchaffie and bransby suggest a lower grade? Have there been any other repeats?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Parthian Shot should be up there, a pretty nails E9 if not E10 with the loss of part of the flake.

How about trad routes that are pretty damned hard but well protected, something like Captain Invincible which is reported as around 8b+ but 'only' E8.

Are one move wonder's allowed? There's that ridiculous mantel at the Roaches that gets something like E6 7b. Of course, you risk making the list too long at which point it is no longer 'the hardest routes'

In reply to Owen W-G:

Marbellous (E8 7a)

In reply to Owen W-G:


That means virtually every E8 in the country and about half the E7s

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:


No idea, it's listed here as E10 though I don't know the provenance of that grade

In reply to Owen W-G:

Total Eclipse (8c+)

In reply to Tyler:

odd- I remember macleod stating that he thought longhope direct was 'definitely harder than rhapsody'- and I don't remember the others suggesting a downgrade, though I could have missed that. wonder who added it to the logbook and why they picked the grade given?

In reply to Owen W-G:

So what is (are) the hardest on-sights in the UK?

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

Who knows? Surely the grade of anything that's been climbed by less than a handful of people is largely meaningless anyway. We can't even agree on the grade of Flying Buttress Direct.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I recall that when Caff repeated it he found it easier than expected (there's some blog posts) but whether that lead to an 'official' down grade who knows

In reply to Owen W-G:

For some random reason this route came to mind: Doctor Dolittle (E10 7a)

In reply to john arran:


For some reason the idea of an 'easy E11' amuses me.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Why on earth are people suggesting random 8c/8c+ sport routes? Haven't they heard of Steve McClure (quite apart from not noticing that the list is presumably meant to be trad routes)?

Apropos of nothing, I wonder what odds I would get on Muy Caliente being onsighted ten times before Sleepy Hollow is onsighted once.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:


"Also, if you wanted to include what were once hardest routes in Britain, what are they? "

.......Is probably why. Hubble used to have an E grade didn't it ?

In reply to Tyler:

I recall that when Caff repeated it he found it easier than expected (there's some blog posts) but whether that lead to an 'official' down grade who knows

I thought that when he was working the route he found the crux head wall easier than expected. However, when leading the route he fell off it and lowered off for a rest before completing it. I also seem to recall, that he felt to do the whole route free with no falls/rests could indeed be worthy of Macleod's original grade.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Left hand finish of Gaia. Can't remember it's name but pretty sure it's graded E9/10. The Zone and Knocking on Heavens Door at Curbar.

In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I think he meant the whole route was harder overall than Rhapsody but the crux pitch may be slightly easier.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Baron Greenback and the Scottish 9a routes would be worth including

In reply to Owen W-G:

Icon of Lust (E8 6c)


Fight the Feeling (9a)


Hunger (9a)

In reply to ralphio:

"Left hand finish of Gaia. Can't remember it's name but pretty sure it's graded E9/10" - Harder Faster

Once Upon a Time in the Southwest should be in there along with Walk of Life. Do any other UK crags have two E9s side by side?

Question Mark, E9 6c at Cribba Head.

In reply to Owen W-G:

There are a few more Dave Macleod E9s to add to your list:

Present Tense, Seana Mheallan (Present Tense (E9 7a))

The Fugue, Glen Croe (The Fugue (E9 6c))

Achemine, Dumbarton Rock (Achemine (E9 6c))

Hold Fast, Glen Nevis (Hold Fast (E9 7a))

In reply to Tom Last:

Do any other UK crags have two E9s side by side?

If you count 'The New Statesman', then The Cow at Ilkley has three.
The East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has two sort of side by side.

In reply to FactorXXX:
Ah yes of course TNS, Gerty Whatsit and...?

What's the other one at Cloggy - Face Mecca?

In reply to Tom Last:

>Question Mark, E9 6c at Cribba Head.

Gosh, yes, of course. And Rewind. And Red Rose.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Of course, good shout. There are also another half dozen or so unrepeated E9/10s down here too, though their names escape me.

In reply to Owen W-G:
Have a look at the Grit List Wiki, they list 34 E8's and 12 E9's. Why have one 8C when there are loads more 8C+? Why have Stawberrys when Wales has a fair few more E8's than you've got? Not being negative here!

In reply to Owen W-G:

You could probably narrow the current list down to about 20 routes but to consider what was at any one time among the hardest routes at that time would produce quite a long list!

In reply to Owen W-G:
You didn't mention trad/sport or bouldering in the OP. For hardest of anything:
Certainly Hubble and Violent New Breed.
On the bouldering front, Voyager Sit Start has been waiting a long time for a repeat.

In reply to paul_in_cumbria:

Thanks all. Updated.

Any E9/10s or F9as missing?

Logbook editors need to get Echo Wall and some of Birketts' hardest on the system.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Any E9/10s or F9as missing?

Dina Crac at Dinas:-

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69120

In reply to Owen W-G:

and 'A Thousand Setting Suns' at Nesscliffe: -

A Thousand Setting Suns (E9 7a)

In reply to Owen W-G:

Rare Lichen E9 7a

I see all the slate biggies have become sport grades (Bungles, Very Big/Small, Quarryman).

Meshuga and Harder Faster, both E9 at Black Rocks

Dina Crac

Chicama

Something's Burning


Any many others...

In reply to Owen W-G:



>

Trauma - Dinas Mot

Rare Lichen and Gribben Wall Climb - The Gribben Facet

In reply to Stuart S:



You can now add Hold Fast Hold True E10 - Julian Lines.

In reply to Owen W-G:


Here's the current crop of unrepeated E9s and up from West Cornwall.

Hookers Haven E8/9 6c - Carn Barra
Adrenaline Tide E9 6c/7a - Pellitras Zawn
Wall of Attrition E9 7a -Pellitras Point
Human Skewer Direct Start E9/10 6c - Zawn Rinney
Mark of My Beast E9 6c - Hella Point
Academia E10 7a - Boscawen Point

In reply to Owen W-G:

Brothers Karamazov at St. Govans. The Brothers Karamazov (E8 6c)

In reply to Tom Last:

V few of them are in the route database but ta

In reply to Owen W-G:


Not suggesting you do if you're not fussed, but do you know you can add routes to crags without being the moderator?

In reply to Owen W-G:
Whats the grade limit for boulder problems? 8B up? If so Rhythm (f8A+) is an awesome one. And Bulbhaul (f8A+) is 8B+ at Almscliff. And High Fidelity (f8B) and Ullola (f8B) at Caley. Ahh and Cypher too!

In reply to Owen W-G:

Smiling Buttress. Ty never gave it a grade but previous estimates have sat around Font 8B IIRC so imagine that would have to give a relatively high trad grade.

In reply to Owen W-G:

Three pebble slab?

Seven of Nine
The Natural Method
The Rail
Leviathan
Monk Life
Shadowplay (if it exists)
Il Pirata

All 8b+ or harder.

In reply to ralphio:


If you do it on a Penny Farthing

In reply to Owen W-G:

You realise anyone can add routes to the database btw?

In reply to Owen W-G:

What about the moors?

In reply to Owen W-G:

Batman at Malham - 9a
North Star at Kilnsey - 9a

Loadsa boulder problems: Voyager Sit Start (8b+), That thing at Bowden: The Rail?