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After a 25 minute onsight for 12metre Mr Ripple (6a)
I found the first one I wish I had never climbed. What are yours?
Post edited at 20:19
In reply to zimpara:
Jericho Wall on the Cromlech was probably a mistake. We didn't take any notice of the name ... it was terrifying But, apart from that, I can't think of any.
Jericho Wall on the Cromlech was probably a mistake. We didn't take any notice of the name ... it was terrifying But, apart from that, I can't think of any.
In reply to zimpara:
Medusa (E1 5b) Will and I were both fairly solid at E2 when we tried it. We took it in turns to do one move each on the lead before giving up, lowering off and handing over to the other. Horrific.
Medusa (E1 5b) Will and I were both fairly solid at E2 when we tried it. We took it in turns to do one move each on the lead before giving up, lowering off and handing over to the other. Horrific.
1
1
In reply to zimpara:
Voie Kelly on the Tete D'Aval in Les Vigneaux, near Vallouise - red hot, dehydrated, lost, way too hard, rockfall, struggling to aid it, never mind free it. Retreated with tails securely wedged between legs
JW
Voie Kelly on the Tete D'Aval in Les Vigneaux, near Vallouise - red hot, dehydrated, lost, way too hard, rockfall, struggling to aid it, never mind free it. Retreated with tails securely wedged between legs
JW
In reply to Martin Haworth:
Which it used to be.
Mick
> The BMC Guide has down-graded Medusa to HVS!!
Which it used to be.
Mick
1
In reply to Martin Haworth:
As they have also downgraded Minus Ten back to it's old and proper grade of VS 4c.
Anyone want to comment on Scoop Wall!
As they have also downgraded Minus Ten back to it's old and proper grade of VS 4c.
Anyone want to comment on Scoop Wall!
In reply to zimpara:
This - Via Kostner (AD+)
Still think how the hell we extracted ourselves from the situation in one piece. Funnily enough by the time we'd got very,very off route after 50m of random choss and 2 bits of gear what I then climbed to the summit was a lovely vs5a corner with great gear and solid rock.
Glad of the hut at the top anyway.
This - Via Kostner (AD+)
Still think how the hell we extracted ourselves from the situation in one piece. Funnily enough by the time we'd got very,very off route after 50m of random choss and 2 bits of gear what I then climbed to the summit was a lovely vs5a corner with great gear and solid rock.
Glad of the hut at the top anyway.
In reply to zimpara:
My first ever route, Black Hawk Traverse at Stanage. It turned me into a climbing junkie and even after 50 years I've still not managed to kick the habit.
Al
My first ever route, Black Hawk Traverse at Stanage. It turned me into a climbing junkie and even after 50 years I've still not managed to kick the habit.
Al
3
In reply to johncook:
I can understand Minus Ten at VS, although many will disagree, but Medusa is E1 and very solid at the grade. As for Scoop a Wall, it should have been left at E2 and Rippemoff should have been left at E1.
Much of the grading at Stoney in the BMC guide is a bit bizarre, Mani up to E2 and Om down to E1, in my opinion Om is harder/more serious than Mani.
Anyway, this is all a bit off topic.
I can understand Minus Ten at VS, although many will disagree, but Medusa is E1 and very solid at the grade. As for Scoop a Wall, it should have been left at E2 and Rippemoff should have been left at E1.
Much of the grading at Stoney in the BMC guide is a bit bizarre, Mani up to E2 and Om down to E1, in my opinion Om is harder/more serious than Mani.
Anyway, this is all a bit off topic.
2
In reply to Mick Ward and Martin Haworth:
I know, it was HVS when we tried it! Mind you, I got further on Medusa than I have done on several Ramshaw HVSs
I know, it was HVS when we tried it! Mind you, I got further on Medusa than I have done on several Ramshaw HVSs
In reply to zimpara:
Cordelia, Mur Cenhinen.
Whoever it was who e-mailed me recently asking about it before their trip - you said you were going to report back.....
Cordelia, Mur Cenhinen.
Whoever it was who e-mailed me recently asking about it before their trip - you said you were going to report back.....
1
In reply to Sam Beaton:
Which reminds me of a blistering hot summer afternoon lost in the mid-70s and a drunken solo of something which turned out to be Little Nasty. Yes, the clue's in the name. I got a lovely scrape from wrist to ankle. Plans for a repeat ascent have been postponed indefinitely.
Mick
Which reminds me of a blistering hot summer afternoon lost in the mid-70s and a drunken solo of something which turned out to be Little Nasty. Yes, the clue's in the name. I got a lovely scrape from wrist to ankle. Plans for a repeat ascent have been postponed indefinitely.
Mick
In reply to zimpara:
Cataclysm at wildcat. Nothing wrong with the route but at the time I had no business being there, I'd been led up it a month or so before when I just started climbing and thought I'd be able to lead it easy. How I survived that first year or so I'll never know.
Cataclysm at wildcat. Nothing wrong with the route but at the time I had no business being there, I'd been led up it a month or so before when I just started climbing and thought I'd be able to lead it easy. How I survived that first year or so I'll never know.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a rock climb though.
Great Gully on Craig yr Ysfa. I'm not sure if it qualifies as a rock climb though.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Eiger North Face - twice!!!
Crack of Despair, Yosemite - so exhausting I actually threw up on it.
Vulture, Cilan Head - perfect route for those sick of living.
Old Man of Stoer, Skye - a desperate vertical slag heap that has to fall over one day.
Eiger North Face - twice!!!
Crack of Despair, Yosemite - so exhausting I actually threw up on it.
Vulture, Cilan Head - perfect route for those sick of living.
Old Man of Stoer, Skye - a desperate vertical slag heap that has to fall over one day.
2
In reply to zimpara:
Stepped Buttress (E1 6a)
A horrid sandbag and used one of my 9 lives when a hold snapped and I leapt into the chimney on the left.
Stepped Buttress (E1 6a)
A horrid sandbag and used one of my 9 lives when a hold snapped and I leapt into the chimney on the left.
In reply to zimpara:
Lord of the Rings on Scafell. In retrospect, a route that is predominantly described in relation to the other routes it crosses might not have been the best choice for a first time at the crag. The resulting route finding difficulties and faffing meant we ended up bailing at about pitch 7 when it became apparent that there was no way we would have time to finish it.
Lord of the Rings on Scafell. In retrospect, a route that is predominantly described in relation to the other routes it crosses might not have been the best choice for a first time at the crag. The resulting route finding difficulties and faffing meant we ended up bailing at about pitch 7 when it became apparent that there was no way we would have time to finish it.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Solitude standing Solitude Standing (E3 6a)
When I hadn't lead above e1 before. The guy with the guidebook promised me it was he soft e1 to the right. Unfortunately it was a sandbagged e3 that's seen like 3 ascents, that was muddy and wet, and the piece of pro he had placed on his attempt was shite at best. I would have backed off but I found a knee bar. Unfortunately it slipped, the tiny nut popped, and I decked from 5m. Totally my moronic mistake.
Solitude standing Solitude Standing (E3 6a)
When I hadn't lead above e1 before. The guy with the guidebook promised me it was he soft e1 to the right. Unfortunately it was a sandbagged e3 that's seen like 3 ascents, that was muddy and wet, and the piece of pro he had placed on his attempt was shite at best. I would have backed off but I found a knee bar. Unfortunately it slipped, the tiny nut popped, and I decked from 5m. Totally my moronic mistake.
Post edited at 12:11
1
In reply to neuromancer:
Borro Ring (5+) at Dancing Ledge on the hottest day in UK history in 2003. Blinded by sweat before clipped first bolt.
Borro Ring (5+) at Dancing Ledge on the hottest day in UK history in 2003. Blinded by sweat before clipped first bolt.
In reply to Mick Ward:
I did manage The Crippler clean, but finished it with blood dripping from scrapes on both ankles, both kneeecaps, both elbows and the bridge of my nose. Not a climb I wish I hadn't got on cos (a) I did it and (b) it's brilliant
I did manage The Crippler clean, but finished it with blood dripping from scrapes on both ankles, both kneeecaps, both elbows and the bridge of my nose. Not a climb I wish I hadn't got on cos (a) I did it and (b) it's brilliant
In reply to zimpara:
The Ribbon, a back-country 3/4 pitch WI5 near Ouray Colarado. It was late in the day, 3pm when we started the walk in, down a ravine and back up the other side to the ice. Deep snow made this slow, we got to the base and found out there was another party on route. We haddn't read the guide book where it said "DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE UNDER ANOTHER PARTY" or words to that effect... So we started climbing.
Leader got bombarded by huge chunks of ice all the way up pitch 1, I shouted ICE when he should duck and pray. He couldn't offer me the same service as I followed. Got totally pummelled with ice and massive spindrift. We dug ourselves a snow cave to hide in as the 2nd pitch looked worse as it was a narrow funnel. Had to wait out the slow party above to finish and rap past us before we climbed to the top and rapped the route. Made it off route just in the light feeling a bit silly.
That said, nobody died.
The Ribbon, a back-country 3/4 pitch WI5 near Ouray Colarado. It was late in the day, 3pm when we started the walk in, down a ravine and back up the other side to the ice. Deep snow made this slow, we got to the base and found out there was another party on route. We haddn't read the guide book where it said "DO NOT CLIMB THIS ROUTE UNDER ANOTHER PARTY" or words to that effect... So we started climbing.
Leader got bombarded by huge chunks of ice all the way up pitch 1, I shouted ICE when he should duck and pray. He couldn't offer me the same service as I followed. Got totally pummelled with ice and massive spindrift. We dug ourselves a snow cave to hide in as the 2nd pitch looked worse as it was a narrow funnel. Had to wait out the slow party above to finish and rap past us before we climbed to the top and rapped the route. Made it off route just in the light feeling a bit silly.
That said, nobody died.
In reply to Owen W-G:
Ooh, that reminds me of another one. Some hideously polished 6c slab at Tenessee crag in the Gorges du Tarn on a blisteringly hot afternoon. I'd somehow jibbered my way up to almost the top before grinding to a halt, as my feet started sliding on the sweat I'd dripped onto the smears. Grim as f*ck and I eventually gave up paddling in my own perspiration and stood on a bolt. And they say ladies glow...
Ooh, that reminds me of another one. Some hideously polished 6c slab at Tenessee crag in the Gorges du Tarn on a blisteringly hot afternoon. I'd somehow jibbered my way up to almost the top before grinding to a halt, as my feet started sliding on the sweat I'd dripped onto the smears. Grim as f*ck and I eventually gave up paddling in my own perspiration and stood on a bolt. And they say ladies glow...
Post edited at 13:17
1
In reply to zimpara:
Vector. Twice. Too much for me.
> ....I wish I had never climbed. What are yours?
Vector. Twice. Too much for me.
In reply to zimpara:
For a long while I fancied myself on Flying buttress direct. Attempt number 1 saw me get to the lip and arrange a heel hook on the big ledge but no further progress. Attempt 2 was as second to a much better climber - this went well - no problems, got to the top!
So on returning a couple of years later for attempt 3, I thought aha! I'll get you this time.
Sadly not to be. Finding myself unable to place the crucial cam in the break under the overhang I decided to give in, called for a tight rope and prepared to drop onto the slab. The moment I let go from the hanging position under the roof my gear pulled out and I tumbled to a stop at the bottom of the slab. Broken wrist, ankle and ribs were the result.
Moral of this story is be very careful about placing gear and think what forces might be acting on it!
For a long while I fancied myself on Flying buttress direct. Attempt number 1 saw me get to the lip and arrange a heel hook on the big ledge but no further progress. Attempt 2 was as second to a much better climber - this went well - no problems, got to the top!
So on returning a couple of years later for attempt 3, I thought aha! I'll get you this time.
Sadly not to be. Finding myself unable to place the crucial cam in the break under the overhang I decided to give in, called for a tight rope and prepared to drop onto the slab. The moment I let go from the hanging position under the roof my gear pulled out and I tumbled to a stop at the bottom of the slab. Broken wrist, ankle and ribs were the result.
Moral of this story is be very careful about placing gear and think what forces might be acting on it!
In reply to zimpara:
Quarter Deck at Higher Sharpnose. The most harrowing VDiff I have ever done. Probably did the wrong line too
Quarter Deck at Higher Sharpnose. The most harrowing VDiff I have ever done. Probably did the wrong line too
In reply to zimpara:
Mid winter ascent of the N Face of Pen y Fan. No ice or snow, just frozen turf and shale.
Terrifying!
No protection at all. We were young and niaive, and by the time we realised we had got ourselves into a serious situation it was easier/safer to go on than try and retreat.
Because a fall would have meant all three of us being pulled off, we unroped and soloed the top half.
Mid winter ascent of the N Face of Pen y Fan. No ice or snow, just frozen turf and shale.
Terrifying!
No protection at all. We were young and niaive, and by the time we realised we had got ourselves into a serious situation it was easier/safer to go on than try and retreat.
Because a fall would have meant all three of us being pulled off, we unroped and soloed the top half.
In reply to zimpara:
Benny.
The guidebook said it required a low tide and a calm sea. We had neither.
I managed to swim/ get washed into the cave, whereupon there was no hope whatsoever of communication. My second had either decided I was in trouble or was determined not to follow because a tug of war ensued (I was equally determined not to drown the other half that wasn't yet half drowned). Eventually I reeled him into the depths and we gasped up the slime into the darkness above.
Subsequently did it again in appropriate conditions. Delightful.
Benny.
The guidebook said it required a low tide and a calm sea. We had neither.
I managed to swim/ get washed into the cave, whereupon there was no hope whatsoever of communication. My second had either decided I was in trouble or was determined not to follow because a tug of war ensued (I was equally determined not to drown the other half that wasn't yet half drowned). Eventually I reeled him into the depths and we gasped up the slime into the darkness above.
Subsequently did it again in appropriate conditions. Delightful.
3
In reply to zimpara:
The Sentinel - Burbage North - super hot day and it was very early on in my climbing days, confidence was outweighing my ability massively. Got a rope from above after hanging on it for about half hour whilst my friends had a great laugh at me whilst setting up the rope.
The Sentinel - Burbage North - super hot day and it was very early on in my climbing days, confidence was outweighing my ability massively. Got a rope from above after hanging on it for about half hour whilst my friends had a great laugh at me whilst setting up the rope.
In reply to zimpara:
The Bludgeon at Shepherd's Crag. End of the day, tired, thought I'd piss it. Not the case. Filthy in the middle so in a bad mood when I reached the pedestal. Gaining the top of the pedestal was desperate and i was totally boxed having a uncomfortable, one leg in one leg out sit down rest. Gave the top section a crack, stuffed it, fell off. So pumped I couldn't do it, so traversed off left with massive run out and rope drag. Belayed, second came up, missed some gear. Lowered her back off the top to get it. Finally finished and packed up, but route was escapable, dirty and felt bloody hard!
The Bludgeon at Shepherd's Crag. End of the day, tired, thought I'd piss it. Not the case. Filthy in the middle so in a bad mood when I reached the pedestal. Gaining the top of the pedestal was desperate and i was totally boxed having a uncomfortable, one leg in one leg out sit down rest. Gave the top section a crack, stuffed it, fell off. So pumped I couldn't do it, so traversed off left with massive run out and rope drag. Belayed, second came up, missed some gear. Lowered her back off the top to get it. Finally finished and packed up, but route was escapable, dirty and felt bloody hard!
Post edited at 21:19
In reply to Trangia:
Haha I probably shouldnt have soloed in summer but me and my friend found it strangely funny. At one point I was using a sharp rock in mud to stop me slipping further down a degrading muddy slope! Overheard several walkers saying we were going to kill ourselves and expected some kind of round of applause when we got to the top but that never happened! Never intended to do it was scopeing out the winter lines but got carried away! Definitely shouldn't have done it but don't regret it!
> Mid winter ascent of the N Face of Pen y Fan. No ice or snow, just frozen turf and shale.
> Terrifying!
> No protection at all. We were young and niaive, and by the time we realised we had got ourselves into a serious situation it was easier/safer to go on than try and retreat.
> Because a fall would have meant all three of us being pulled off, we unroped and soloed the top half.
Haha I probably shouldnt have soloed in summer but me and my friend found it strangely funny. At one point I was using a sharp rock in mud to stop me slipping further down a degrading muddy slope! Overheard several walkers saying we were going to kill ourselves and expected some kind of round of applause when we got to the top but that never happened! Never intended to do it was scopeing out the winter lines but got carried away! Definitely shouldn't have done it but don't regret it!
Post edited at 01:52
2
In reply to zimpara:
Left Unconquerable - after having almost flashed Right Unconquerable my mate told me to get on left - should have saved it as it's a classic - hey ho what doesn't kill you.
Left Unconquerable - after having almost flashed Right Unconquerable my mate told me to get on left - should have saved it as it's a classic - hey ho what doesn't kill you.
In reply to zimpara:
Pretty much any of my early winter climbing epics. I shudder when I remember the clueless abseiling from crumbling ice bulges (Chicane Gully) or descriptionlessly rambling up a promising bit of ice on Craig Lloer to end up running out miles of barely verglassed slabs above (probably First Trinity Gully?).
Not sure how I survived really. Certainly some of my contemporaries didn't and in retrospect it is a bit shocking how regularly students seemed to get themselves killed winter climbing back in the late 70s / early 80s.
I gave it up, not because I thought it was dangerous but because I got fed up with the long walks getting wet and cold. I got into culm instead...!
Pretty much any of my early winter climbing epics. I shudder when I remember the clueless abseiling from crumbling ice bulges (Chicane Gully) or descriptionlessly rambling up a promising bit of ice on Craig Lloer to end up running out miles of barely verglassed slabs above (probably First Trinity Gully?).
Not sure how I survived really. Certainly some of my contemporaries didn't and in retrospect it is a bit shocking how regularly students seemed to get themselves killed winter climbing back in the late 70s / early 80s.
I gave it up, not because I thought it was dangerous but because I got fed up with the long walks getting wet and cold. I got into culm instead...!
Post edited at 09:45
In reply to Dave Garnett:
I didn't realise this was happening at the time. A decade earlier, in my teens, I'd climbed with folk from the local uni, then left the area. A few years ago, quite by accident, I discovered that, just after my cohort group, there had been several fatalities. It sounded as though inexperience had simply caught up with them. Was pretty shocking though.
Things seem better now. A while ago I was at Avon and Bristol uni were doing training sessions for freshers below the Sea Walls. I've never seen such well organised and cogent training. Good on them.
Mick
> Not sure how I survived really. Certainly some of my contemporaries didn't and in retrospect it is a bit shocking how regularly students seemed to get themselves killed winter climbing back in the late 70s / early 80s.
I didn't realise this was happening at the time. A decade earlier, in my teens, I'd climbed with folk from the local uni, then left the area. A few years ago, quite by accident, I discovered that, just after my cohort group, there had been several fatalities. It sounded as though inexperience had simply caught up with them. Was pretty shocking though.
Things seem better now. A while ago I was at Avon and Bristol uni were doing training sessions for freshers below the Sea Walls. I've never seen such well organised and cogent training. Good on them.
Mick
1
In reply to zimpara:
Lorraine, last Sunday, Bowden Doors, Northumberland. Bitch spat me off when I miss clipping some gear, dropped headfirst 5-6m before being yanked up 3 foot short of the deck. Still a bit sore but glad it wasn't worse!
Lorraine, last Sunday, Bowden Doors, Northumberland. Bitch spat me off when I miss clipping some gear, dropped headfirst 5-6m before being yanked up 3 foot short of the deck. Still a bit sore but glad it wasn't worse!
In reply to Mick Ward:
He was scampering around the top chasing seagulls and no doubt begging food from tourists.
> Could've been worse... was a whole lot worse... for poor ole' Benny.
> Mick
He was scampering around the top chasing seagulls and no doubt begging food from tourists.
In reply to zimpara:
3 dodgy ones stand out for me...
We'd always fancied getting away from it all on the crag on Moel Hebog (Y Diffws). So we set off up an offwidth graded severe - luckily I seconded it and as I was thruching madly trying to make progress up the muddy crack my partner said "don't fall off - the belay's not good". Turns out it was a sling round a pebble he was holding down by sitting on it. Next pitch was worse - overhanging heather. We tried waving for rescue to parties on the other ridge but no-one noticed...
Then there was Cauldron Gully, which we thought was Bryants Gully... We told somebody in Outside about how difficult Bryants was and he said we'd been on Cauldron - "Not often done in summer!"
And probably worst was Crowberry Gully on the Buchaille. Very little pro, wet rock and a very slippy and ancient pair of 1st generation Scarpa Mantas don't make for a good day out!
3 dodgy ones stand out for me...
We'd always fancied getting away from it all on the crag on Moel Hebog (Y Diffws). So we set off up an offwidth graded severe - luckily I seconded it and as I was thruching madly trying to make progress up the muddy crack my partner said "don't fall off - the belay's not good". Turns out it was a sling round a pebble he was holding down by sitting on it. Next pitch was worse - overhanging heather. We tried waving for rescue to parties on the other ridge but no-one noticed...
Then there was Cauldron Gully, which we thought was Bryants Gully... We told somebody in Outside about how difficult Bryants was and he said we'd been on Cauldron - "Not often done in summer!"
And probably worst was Crowberry Gully on the Buchaille. Very little pro, wet rock and a very slippy and ancient pair of 1st generation Scarpa Mantas don't make for a good day out!
2
In reply to Mick Ward:
Sabre Cut, VS 4c & 4b (I think) on the Cromlech.
My belayer was in slightly the wrong place for me to lead the second pitch, which I struggled with anyway, didn't have enough large gear, and everything I did place was sketchy. Convinced to this day that if I'd fallen on the top bits (which I nearly did a few times) that I would have died/been seriously injured. I only got up it with sheer bloody mindedness and by jamming myself in the crack and udging and hauling myself up. Collapsed at the top shaking in terror. Swore I'd never climb again.
Sabre Cut, VS 4c & 4b (I think) on the Cromlech.
My belayer was in slightly the wrong place for me to lead the second pitch, which I struggled with anyway, didn't have enough large gear, and everything I did place was sketchy. Convinced to this day that if I'd fallen on the top bits (which I nearly did a few times) that I would have died/been seriously injured. I only got up it with sheer bloody mindedness and by jamming myself in the crack and udging and hauling myself up. Collapsed at the top shaking in terror. Swore I'd never climb again.
Post edited at 15:49
3
In reply to phantom whistler:
But Soap Gut had adequate gear even in the late 60s. OK, you might twist or break an ankle if you fell off before the first bit of (dodgy) gear.
> Soap Gut - just as it was starting to rain.
But Soap Gut had adequate gear even in the late 60s. OK, you might twist or break an ankle if you fell off before the first bit of (dodgy) gear.
1
In reply to JayPee630:
Sorry to say this, but it sounds like you weren't really going at VS if you had trouble on it. It was always quite a serious pitch, but no more than that (and technically very straightforward, i.e 4b, and much easier than it looked). Even in 1968 (before any modern nuts, wires, Friends etc) you could get perfectly adequate gear on the last pitch - I think it even took two Moacs just where you most needed them. There is no way you could have died on that pitch - short of a main belay failure. I've never heard any stories of anyone being hurt on it.
> Sabre Cut, VS 4c & 4b (I think) on the Cromlech.
> My belayer was in slightly the wrong place for me to lead the second pitch, which I struggled with anyway, didn't have enough large gear, and everything I did place was sketchy. Convinced to this day that if I'd fallen on the top bits (which I nearly did a few times) that I would have died/been seriously injured. I only got up it with sheer bloody mindedness and by jamming myself in the crack and udging and hauling myself up. Collapsed at the top shaking in terror. Swore I'd never climb again.
Sorry to say this, but it sounds like you weren't really going at VS if you had trouble on it. It was always quite a serious pitch, but no more than that (and technically very straightforward, i.e 4b, and much easier than it looked). Even in 1968 (before any modern nuts, wires, Friends etc) you could get perfectly adequate gear on the last pitch - I think it even took two Moacs just where you most needed them. There is no way you could have died on that pitch - short of a main belay failure. I've never heard any stories of anyone being hurt on it.
1
3
In reply to JayPee630:
PS. to last. The thing I remember being so remarkable about Sabre Cut was that it looked like it was going to be a full-on jamming pitch, and you put your hand inside the crack and discovered this other small crack inside it at right-angles to it, creating this perfect layback edge. So you went up the whole thing with you hand in the crack pretending to be jamming when you were just semi-laybacking off this perfect edge, with, of course, perfect foot jams. Absolute doddle. And we were then just 'southern sandstone climbers' with absolutely no experience of crack climbing whatever!
PS. to last. The thing I remember being so remarkable about Sabre Cut was that it looked like it was going to be a full-on jamming pitch, and you put your hand inside the crack and discovered this other small crack inside it at right-angles to it, creating this perfect layback edge. So you went up the whole thing with you hand in the crack pretending to be jamming when you were just semi-laybacking off this perfect edge, with, of course, perfect foot jams. Absolute doddle. And we were then just 'southern sandstone climbers' with absolutely no experience of crack climbing whatever!
2
2
In reply to JayPee630:
PS2. ... and the whole thing in balance, because the crack is set back from the vertical just enough. A 3-star gem.
PS2. ... and the whole thing in balance, because the crack is set back from the vertical just enough. A 3-star gem.
1
In reply to zimpara
Crithmum at Mother Scarey's some time in the late 90s. Everyone knew it had fallen down - except us. Very very scary.
Crithmum at Mother Scarey's some time in the late 90s. Everyone knew it had fallen down - except us. Very very scary.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Easter Egg (VS) at Cormorant Ledge, Swanage. Made the route description fit what we saw, spent half an hour dropping rocks on my mate as I lead higher and higher, before realising it was all wrong and lowering off some very dodgy gear, glad to reach the ledge alive. Turned out it had all fallen down a couple of years before and we were climbing the remnants.
Easter Egg (VS) at Cormorant Ledge, Swanage. Made the route description fit what we saw, spent half an hour dropping rocks on my mate as I lead higher and higher, before realising it was all wrong and lowering off some very dodgy gear, glad to reach the ledge alive. Turned out it had all fallen down a couple of years before and we were climbing the remnants.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Not denying it's a three star route, but that's not relevant to my experience of it! I was actually climbing solid VS at the time, but plead having a very bad day in mitigation. And my gear was all shocking and my belayer was in a bad place, I would have had a serious ground fall.
Not denying it's a three star route, but that's not relevant to my experience of it! I was actually climbing solid VS at the time, but plead having a very bad day in mitigation. And my gear was all shocking and my belayer was in a bad place, I would have had a serious ground fall.
Post edited at 19:00
2
In reply to Mick Ward:
No problem, Benny survived many more adventures and died of old age in 1988.
> Sorry.
> Mick
No problem, Benny survived many more adventures and died of old age in 1988.
In reply to Owen W-G:
I attempted Rock Idol at Mother Carey's on the day before the hottest day on record. By the time I'd reached the top of the easy initial pinnacle my glasses were overrun by sweat and I couldn't see the footholds properly. I lowered off and we escaped via Inner Space, which was still a reasonable temperature. I gave up climbing for the weekend and drove back home to discover that I'd been burgled in my absence.
I attempted Rock Idol at Mother Carey's on the day before the hottest day on record. By the time I'd reached the top of the easy initial pinnacle my glasses were overrun by sweat and I couldn't see the footholds properly. I lowered off and we escaped via Inner Space, which was still a reasonable temperature. I gave up climbing for the weekend and drove back home to discover that I'd been burgled in my absence.
1
In reply to zimpara:
Silica at Stanage, given HVS 5c at the time. I naively assumed that this meant the 5c bit was pulling onto the slabs, which would then prove easy...
Silica at Stanage, given HVS 5c at the time. I naively assumed that this meant the 5c bit was pulling onto the slabs, which would then prove easy...
In reply to zimpara:
Gogarth E1. It wasn't that the route was beyond us but my mate hadn't climbed for a year, I'd woken up hungover and had to beg/borrow gear off mates at the crag and we ended up climbing it with some slings, a few RPs and half a set of nuts. We also managed to get lost (as we had no guidebook) and ended up finishing up something rather harder than we had anticipated. I remember topping out and shouting down to my mate "I'm safe, but don't fall off or we're both f***ed." He wept his way up the last pitch and topped out covered in blood from jamming a horrible overhanging crack. Mind you, in the car on the way home it was the best day out ever...
Gogarth E1. It wasn't that the route was beyond us but my mate hadn't climbed for a year, I'd woken up hungover and had to beg/borrow gear off mates at the crag and we ended up climbing it with some slings, a few RPs and half a set of nuts. We also managed to get lost (as we had no guidebook) and ended up finishing up something rather harder than we had anticipated. I remember topping out and shouting down to my mate "I'm safe, but don't fall off or we're both f***ed." He wept his way up the last pitch and topped out covered in blood from jamming a horrible overhanging crack. Mind you, in the car on the way home it was the best day out ever...
Post edited at 20:08
In reply to JayPee630:
I think times have changed a lot. We were obviously much more used to the idea of long run-outs in those days, even though we'd only been leading for 2 ½ weeks according to my log book. Sabre Cut was our 4th VS, but we still found it 'mild', because the entry in my logbook for our next VS, the next day (Brant on the Grochan) is headed: 'First full-bloodied VS'.
I think times have changed a lot. We were obviously much more used to the idea of long run-outs in those days, even though we'd only been leading for 2 ½ weeks according to my log book. Sabre Cut was our 4th VS, but we still found it 'mild', because the entry in my logbook for our next VS, the next day (Brant on the Grochan) is headed: 'First full-bloodied VS'.
3
In reply to zimpara:
Easy one, the file at higher tor. I can't jam and even seconding it was a desperate fight and the file won!
Easy one, the file at higher tor. I can't jam and even seconding it was a desperate fight and the file won!
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Sabre cut is now very very polished. It is probably quite technical with all the polish if you bridge it. I climbed it a couple of years ago and udged the crux pitch at about hs 4b ish
Sabre cut is now very very polished. It is probably quite technical with all the polish if you bridge it. I climbed it a couple of years ago and udged the crux pitch at about hs 4b ish
In reply to JayPee630:
I'd done loads of extremes and still thought Sabre Cut was a right pig. Just not our route, I guess. So it goes.
Mick
I'd done loads of extremes and still thought Sabre Cut was a right pig. Just not our route, I guess. So it goes.
Mick
2
In reply to zimpara:
Did one just yesterday, supposedly as a warm up, "Thread Security" VS, 5a at Shorn Cliff. The first half was very greasy and felt insecure and the top half was loose and covered in soil that was rolling off as I stood on it. In fact it was downright dangerous. You can't see the thread, which is in any case useless, until you have climbed the hard bit. People who say this is an enjoyable climb as per some entries in the UKC logbook, really need to get out more.
Al
Did one just yesterday, supposedly as a warm up, "Thread Security" VS, 5a at Shorn Cliff. The first half was very greasy and felt insecure and the top half was loose and covered in soil that was rolling off as I stood on it. In fact it was downright dangerous. You can't see the thread, which is in any case useless, until you have climbed the hard bit. People who say this is an enjoyable climb as per some entries in the UKC logbook, really need to get out more.
Al
Post edited at 10:20
In reply to Mick Ward:
El Elephantito, La Pedriza.
Somewhere here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2660
Not reading Spanish too well, I lead up to a ledge. Nearing the ledge I felt a huge gust of wind that nearly blew me off and my mate was phlegmatically shouting in awe, 'Wow, look at that!'. It was a Griffon Vulture buzzing me. As I checked behind me I noticed around 20-30 of them watching from the flat-top granite behind.
Obvious now, but, we were climbing past a nest. I went off route to avoid it, brought my mate up and we went off the other side. Nerves jangling a bit, I went overkill on the abseil set up, taking up too much rope and leaving a sling and crab unnecessarily, and set off... only to find the rope did not stretch to the ledge. In the end, with daylight fading, I untied and caught the lip with my toe, one hand on the rope, eventually pulling myself on and making myself safe quicker than any time in my life. Such a buggers muddle and rash beyond risky. F**king idiot, but still alive.
El Elephantito, La Pedriza.
Somewhere here http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2660
Not reading Spanish too well, I lead up to a ledge. Nearing the ledge I felt a huge gust of wind that nearly blew me off and my mate was phlegmatically shouting in awe, 'Wow, look at that!'. It was a Griffon Vulture buzzing me. As I checked behind me I noticed around 20-30 of them watching from the flat-top granite behind.
Obvious now, but, we were climbing past a nest. I went off route to avoid it, brought my mate up and we went off the other side. Nerves jangling a bit, I went overkill on the abseil set up, taking up too much rope and leaving a sling and crab unnecessarily, and set off... only to find the rope did not stretch to the ledge. In the end, with daylight fading, I untied and caught the lip with my toe, one hand on the rope, eventually pulling myself on and making myself safe quicker than any time in my life. Such a buggers muddle and rash beyond risky. F**king idiot, but still alive.
Post edited at 10:31
In reply to nick ingram:
You're being a bit hard on yourself; surely in a situation like that anybody would have been a bit freaked out. And ironically the second problem only occurred because of being 'too safe' (usually a good option!)
But, if it makes you feel better...
Once totally buggered up the ab into Red Wall. Somebody's very old thick, furry ropes knotted together and something left on (a jumar?) to get past the knot. Very high winds. Being a mechanical numpty, I just couldn't seem to get past the knot. Messed around for ages. My mate, far below, was cursing me. Probably got a bit hypothermic in the wind. Eventually swung in (the ab was free) and grabbed a big loose jug seemingly not on any route. Hung from one hand, untied (yup!) with the other. Wind trying to tear the rope away. (I knew if I lost it, all was well and truly over.) Messed around one-handed, to get the rope back into the figure of eight. Tried not to think about loose jugs creaking. Finally swung off into space and down to my thoroughly disgusted mate.
After that, of course, the route might have been a Diff at Windgather. My mate bailed on the second pitch. I flew up all three, in a rush to get out. Haven't been back since.
Mick
You're being a bit hard on yourself; surely in a situation like that anybody would have been a bit freaked out. And ironically the second problem only occurred because of being 'too safe' (usually a good option!)
But, if it makes you feel better...
Once totally buggered up the ab into Red Wall. Somebody's very old thick, furry ropes knotted together and something left on (a jumar?) to get past the knot. Very high winds. Being a mechanical numpty, I just couldn't seem to get past the knot. Messed around for ages. My mate, far below, was cursing me. Probably got a bit hypothermic in the wind. Eventually swung in (the ab was free) and grabbed a big loose jug seemingly not on any route. Hung from one hand, untied (yup!) with the other. Wind trying to tear the rope away. (I knew if I lost it, all was well and truly over.) Messed around one-handed, to get the rope back into the figure of eight. Tried not to think about loose jugs creaking. Finally swung off into space and down to my thoroughly disgusted mate.
After that, of course, the route might have been a Diff at Windgather. My mate bailed on the second pitch. I flew up all three, in a rush to get out. Haven't been back since.
Mick
In reply to zimpara:
Scruples at Millstone, about a fortnight after it was first done. Scruples (E5 6b) I climbed up to the peg (Now mentioned as missing and not crucial.) had a look at the moves above the peg and thought before i went for it i'd just sit on the peg to test it. It promptly shot out and i ended up very near the floor as my belayer wasn't expecting it. Turned out it was a rurp and only in about 3mm so i guess i'm responsible for the missing peg.
Scruples at Millstone, about a fortnight after it was first done. Scruples (E5 6b) I climbed up to the peg (Now mentioned as missing and not crucial.) had a look at the moves above the peg and thought before i went for it i'd just sit on the peg to test it. It promptly shot out and i ended up very near the floor as my belayer wasn't expecting it. Turned out it was a rurp and only in about 3mm so i guess i'm responsible for the missing peg.
In reply to zimpara:
For me it would be the late, and probably unlamented, Buffalo Gorge at Lands End. The description said something like "Squeeze chimney followed by 40 ft of weetabix, cruxy to start". I interpreted this as meaning that the squeeze chimney at the bottom was the crux and that looked OK to me so I set off. In fact the intended meaning was that the weetabix was cruxy to start. I only found that out when I got there. The seriousness of this discovery was compounded by the fact that the squeeze chimney was terminated by being blocked by a crumbly granite flake about 5 m high with a hand jam crack on one side and a knee jam on the other. This seemed great until I put in a sinking hand jam then wedged the knee in only to find that after doing that the hand jam would not release. The whole bloody flake was flexing. I was very grateful to eventually complete the moves to get established on the weetabix! In photos taken about a year later the flake was no longer there and it wasn't that much later that the whole buttress fell down taking the classic Yankee Doodle with it.
For me it would be the late, and probably unlamented, Buffalo Gorge at Lands End. The description said something like "Squeeze chimney followed by 40 ft of weetabix, cruxy to start". I interpreted this as meaning that the squeeze chimney at the bottom was the crux and that looked OK to me so I set off. In fact the intended meaning was that the weetabix was cruxy to start. I only found that out when I got there. The seriousness of this discovery was compounded by the fact that the squeeze chimney was terminated by being blocked by a crumbly granite flake about 5 m high with a hand jam crack on one side and a knee jam on the other. This seemed great until I put in a sinking hand jam then wedged the knee in only to find that after doing that the hand jam would not release. The whole bloody flake was flexing. I was very grateful to eventually complete the moves to get established on the weetabix! In photos taken about a year later the flake was no longer there and it wasn't that much later that the whole buttress fell down taking the classic Yankee Doodle with it.
2
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
So now that you have passed comment on everyone else's climbs they should never had got on, what climbs should you never have got on?
(The worst I've ever had was the top pitch of Sexilegs, Baggy, and although pretty horrific with 20/30m of terrible micro gear, mud and loose rock I don't think it compares to some of the excellent tales on this thread!)
So now that you have passed comment on everyone else's climbs they should never had got on, what climbs should you never have got on?
(The worst I've ever had was the top pitch of Sexilegs, Baggy, and although pretty horrific with 20/30m of terrible micro gear, mud and loose rock I don't think it compares to some of the excellent tales on this thread!)
Post edited at 00:14
3
In reply to andrewmcleod:
I think I might still have the peg you needed somewhere in the garage...
> (The worst I've ever had was the top pitch of Sexilegs, Baggy, and although pretty horrific with 20/30m of terrible micro gear, mud and loose rock I don't think it compares to some of the excellent tales on this thread!)
I think I might still have the peg you needed somewhere in the garage...
1
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Er??? You must have got me confused with someone else. The only climbs I passed comment on were Sabre Cut and Soap Gut. I also said that I probably should never have gone on to Jericho Wall.
> So now that you have passed comment on everyone else's climbs they should never had got on, what climbs should you never have got on?
Er??? You must have got me confused with someone else. The only climbs I passed comment on were Sabre Cut and Soap Gut. I also said that I probably should never have gone on to Jericho Wall.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
Oops - forgot to expand the previously viewed posts before searching through and missed your initial post. Apologies!
Oops - forgot to expand the previously viewed posts before searching through and missed your initial post. Apologies!
1
In reply to zimpara:
The third spur (Aig. Midi). The one right of the Frendo as you look at it from the Plan station. Huge pile of choss, no clear line, unplanned bivi with no overnight kit, like climbing 75 degree weetabix, so off route we considered trying to pendulum across to what might be the route but there were more pitches than belays. I think its the only Alpine route we've backed off and not gone back to.
The third spur (Aig. Midi). The one right of the Frendo as you look at it from the Plan station. Huge pile of choss, no clear line, unplanned bivi with no overnight kit, like climbing 75 degree weetabix, so off route we considered trying to pendulum across to what might be the route but there were more pitches than belays. I think its the only Alpine route we've backed off and not gone back to.
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