UKC

Kevin Jorgeson interview

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 stp 11 Jul 2015
Good intelligent and insightful interview with Kevin Jorgeson and his experiences on the Dawn Wall (not much about training though).

https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/kevin-jorgeson/?portfolioID=3838
 jsmcfarland 12 Jul 2015
In reply to stp:

I thought it was really good, though obviously lacking in training knowledge. One thing that bugs me about people who say they don't train much is that in reality that often do, they just aren't hanging off an edge for a few hours a week in their basement or whatever. Climbing outdoors on specific styles of problem or route to prepare yourself for a bigger objective surely qualifies as training..
 Morgan Woods 12 Jul 2015
In reply to stp:

wow...no idea he hadn't done 5.14b,c or d before Dawn Wall!
OP stp 12 Jul 2015
In reply to jsmcfarland:

Yeah, as Sharma likes to say: Just go climbing. Ondra seems to have made it to 9b+ before starting training. I think if you can get out on the crags regularly and on physically hard routes and problems its probably as good as any other form of training if not better. Not so easy to do in this country what with the weather and limited amount of rock though. So training is more more a necessity.
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 1poundSOCKS 12 Jul 2015
In reply to stp:

> Ondra seems to have made it to 9b+ before starting training.

I think there's footage of him training indoors as a child, on the Wizard's Apprentice film.
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