UKC

Hi all,

I've been climbing now for a few months now and I feel really passionate about the sport! I was hoping to read some decent books on climbing technique (slab, vert, overhangs and crag climbing) while at my shitty day job and was hoping some of you guys 'n'gals could give me some recommendations?

Thanks.

In reply to Ha77on:

"The Self Coached Climber" and "9 out of 10 mistakes climbers do" might be the best bids. You would probably benefit from the latter one a little bit later on.

In reply to Ha77on:

Reading in a book is all well and good but unless you film yourself how can you know your doing it right?

I would say you have a couple of options, either get yourself coached on a few sessions it will make a massive difference in the long run but at a bit of expense or make friends with someone who looks like they climb well and watch how they do it.

Technique is the right way to go in the beginning!

Good luck.

In reply to PPP:

Seconding "The Self-Coached Climber" in particular -- there's some really good stuff on movement technique.

There's also the Neil Gresham Masterclass Part 1, which I got a lot out of when I was starting. Okay, it's a film not a book, but maybe you could buy a download and watch it sneakily on a smartphone ...

http://steepedge.com/categories/instructional/masterclass-part-1-technique-...

N.B. Both of these have big sections on training -- make yourself ignore these until you've been climbing for at least a year or so! Your tendons need time to get stronger before you load any extra stresses onto them, and you'll get the best results right now from just climbing a lot concentrating on learning good technique.

In reply to Ha77on:

It's not a book, but as slab_happy said, what you want is Neil Gresham's Masterclass part 1. It's got everything you need... then you just need to go and practice! lots.

In reply to climbwhenready:

Neil Gresham's Masterclass part 1.....i watched this about 20 times. great video...awful music!!! this is the best place to start.

In reply to Ha77on:

Watching top climbers climb. With the internet there's no shortage of material and the more stuff you watch the better. Focus on the way they move and then try to mimic that when you climb. Notice the different styles that different top climbers have. Experiment with different ways yourself.

The lead World Cups are just getting under way so you get to see hours of the very best climbers using every skill and technique they have to get up routes. And all the old comps are on Youtube too if you want more.

When you're trying out new ways to climb don't try stuff that's too hard. Do lots of easier warm up routes where your relaxed and freer to try out new things.

In reply to stp:

Good post.

I have climbed with ( ok belayed ) some exceptional climbers and seen the best perform.

Usually can tell how hard the climbing is though.

Only two climbers have managed to further impress me by giving no indication of how hard the moves are..

that's real class.

In reply to Ha77on:

Look for the BMC master classes, they are very good.

Climb with better climbers and have them give you the beta on climbs beyond your Grade. If you climb 6a you will never get better climbing 6a. Work routes up to 6b+. This will make you stronger and improve your technique. Belaying the better climbers and watch how they climb. Get them to tell you what they are doing wrong.

When you warm up play games on easy routes like using body position to enable you to keep your arms straight, or feet only on a slab climb.

In reply to Ha77on:

some appear to have missed the point you want something to do while at work.....

Rather than technique, my own recommendation would be take guidebooks with you and make progressively harder lists for stuff to do that will motivate you and plan ticklists for a given day. You can easily sneak a guidebook into other stuff and hide it under stuff to give the impression of working. Paul Nunn's Peak District guide got me through some hellishly boring shifts.

(Many years ago while a student and doing shitty jobs I found there were few jobs you couldn't find some training or bouldering problems at. My favourite was a warehouse where I could layback up the metalwork the shutter ran along when the chain skipped off to save getting a ladder )