UKC

In reply to BnB:

Is the Great North Road not in Yorkshire? The border is wiggly around there so not sure which of the Eastern Edges are in South Yorks. Anyway, I did Allan's Crack many years ago on a misty morning and from what I remember I would say that even at Brimham alone Right Hand Crack and Birch Tree Wall are better!

In reply to TobyA:

I expect you're right but I meant the area covered by the Yorkshire Gritstone guides of course.

Birch Tree Wall doesn't do as much for me I'm afraid and I've done it three times. Right Hand Crack is fantastic jamming until the top-out but that tried to kill me!!

In reply to BnB:

My favourite Yorkshire VS's are

Rough wall
Birch tree wall
Right hand crack
Tiger wall
Crack of doom
Chevin Buttress

In reply to BnB:

I thought Birch Tree was terrifying! I was well impressed with myself for teetering up it without crying (much).

In reply to BnB:

It is pretty good. Birch Tree Wall was both a bit harder and a bit less good than I was hoping for. Frankland's Green Crack is pretty ace though.

In reply to Wizzy:

I was going to do Rough Wall as well today but realised I'd have no compelling route to come back for (at VS anyway) so I left it for another day.

Racking my brain for other contenders: Earl Crack? Walewska? S Crack? Central Crack?

In reply to Wizzy:

Crack of Doom is a great route.

In reply to ralphio:

I remember it as being really good too. Better than Allan's Crack at least in my memory.

i just did Keeper Crack at Brimham, thats interesting at the grade ! and i used jamming gloves
and i am both pleased with them and the amount of blood i still have.

have you done Nightwatch ?

In reply to BnB:

Frankland's Green Crack is my most memorable (I recall the final bulge being a bit traumatic - wrong handed and got my helmet wedged .... Wall of Horrors was easier). Birch Tree Wall was disappointingly easy. I remember liking Allans Crack.

Home of short but meaty VS's though has to Northumberland - the grading seems to to be for those bold / good enough not to waste energy placing gear. I suspect if you directed parties of cautious people working their way into VS onto Lorraine, Tiger Wall, Wilfred Prickles, Tacitation etc the results might be...interesting!

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Great cycling christ, Lorraine.

*Shudders*

Of the 769 VSs that I've climbed over the last decade or so, that is the only one that I've been unable to follow. 4c my ass.

In reply to victim of mathematics:

Luckily for me I was an over-strong boulderer when I did it - layback up, chuck in cam, traverse and top-out... and then breath and relax! Frightening though (and I was probably good for grit E2 / font 7b boulder at the time!). Most trouble-for-the grade-route I can remember is Great Wall at Great Wanney - hideous mantel thing to start, cramped gaining and climbing a crack, then a steep finale. Maybe, it just disadvantaged the gangly, maybe it's a badly graded horror show... or may they just breed them tough up there!

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

Ha. 'over-strong' or 'boulderer' have never been terms you could apply to me. Maybe 'fat layback-o-phobic punter'. Never been to Great Wanney. Would like to climb more in Northumberland, but the stupid grades and permanent proximity of the ground always put me off making the drive up there...

In reply to victim of mathematics:

I fell off Lorraine on the lead around the same time I did the same on Shear Fear at Ratho (E2 5c). Strangely similar exhausting overhanging laybacks. Not sure which is harder. Lorraine must be easier to solo, although Shear Fear certainly isn't.

In reply to stu7jokes:
I think "easier to solo" is a constant of Northumbrian grades. Guide-books are written by folk who nonchalantly solo circuits of classics that the aspirant would fall off tryng to lace with gear! I really must return, if only to boulder and try to slay some Kyloe-in / Back Bowden nemeses.

In reply to TobyA:

Agree. Right hand crack - stuck in my mind after 20 yrs, was expecting VD ha ha - I found harder than Allen's Crack maybe as I've small hands.

In reply to EllenW:

Right hand crack is a joy if you like laybacking! whereas the top moves of Central Crack...do once, just so you never have to lead it again.

The Night Watch now...theres a contender for best VS in yorkshire even though its not grit. fantastic positions and views over the vale of york, truly airy feeling

In reply to BnB:


Odyssey at Horsehold Scout. It should have been given 3 stars in the new guide but the editors vetoed one of them, I think on the basis that it had none in the previous edition! It's a sensational route - though perhaps verging on HVS.

In reply to pebbles:


A contender for the best single pitch VS in the country!

In reply to CurlyStevo:




Did Fag Slab Variant as a warm up. Found them both really lovely. I think it's because my footwork was uncharacteristically on point yesterday. Both routes have a reputation for pump and I think my enjoyment stems from the fact that I just didn't really feel them in my arms at all. As an 11 stone weakling I don't relish physical battles so to cruise two pump-fests on the trot felt like a big win

Looking forward to getting on Rough Wall.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


It's bang opposite my house yet never been up. I must find a local to get on it with me.

In reply to pebbles:


Brrrrr... still quivering 12 months later

In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:

You also fell off on your first attempt from about 3 meters up and hit the ground though...not that I want to start swapping memories of our trad exploits in public!

In reply to pebbles:


Laybacking?! What is this strange thing you talk of?!

In reply to Sankey:


So I did (on Lorraine that is), proof that you can layback TOO enthusiastically!

In reply to TobyA:

aye don't think I laybacked any of it! It is quite thin for jamming on my hands on the crux though

In reply to BnB:

Earl Crack (VS 4c) gets my vote

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Mine too - with Frankland's coming a close second. Don't really remember too much about Allan's Crack...