In reply to Just Tintin:
Morning Campers,
Thanks JT.
Bit of an epic today - you'll need to be able to read about Font 8C+/9A to get through it all - I'd make a cuppa if you're going for it.
If not, last week was ace - got lots of great climbing in. Got loads of new goals, mainly working on arm, core and shoulder strength, adding endurance stuff into the mix and doing more routes (inc falls).
Training Diary WC 20/7/15
Training Again (ish)!
Monday – Strava Training Plan (STP) run 1: - Easy 30mins. Hilly, off road 6.6km in 32:14 at 4:52m/km pace. Ran some trails that I’ve only ever biked before – singletrack for shoes – fan-flippity-tastic! Legs were feeling Saturday’s run to begin with but got into it. Kept in right pace/heart rate zones too – huzzah!
Tuesday – Biblins with Tom; warmed up retro-almost flashing the burly New School, Old School (F6C+) in two goes. Then, nailed the overhanging and crimpy traverse of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+) which, last year I simply couldn’t do – took about 20 mins to work out a sequence and nail it. Except that I didn’t do the top out from the big ledge - so probably worth F7A (just) – will do it next time. Tom then started shuffling even further sideways, trying to link the previous problem into The Bulge – fell off this a fair bit (some off balancy, hard moves) before finishing the evening with a muck about on The Bulge Footless (F7B). Got one and a bit campus moves up it (the biggest one is done) before running out of steam and skin – will be back for this too! An ace session – felt back on it a bit which is great!
Wednesday –STP run 2: Intervals – 8 x 84s intervals w 1min easy jog rest. Each interval should’ve been 400m but, as I’d been on steady 20 min uphill run to warm up and wasn’t in me usual spot, most fell short by 10 to 30m. Still, not too shabby for the first time back on it (will use the regular, measured out spot next time) and the off road run home down the ridge of the hill we live under as the light left for the night was simply fabulous.
Thursday – Avon Sea Walls, bouldering. A four hour session (longest for a while). Warmed up on For… (6B), a dyno from crimps which went third go before trying to ground up Most Choice (E2 6b/ F6C+/7A (possibly?)). Took about 30 goes and some very pink finger tips but, having ‘river danced’ below the last move a good four or five times and then made the ‘knees to ears’ leap off, I was inspired by Tom caressing the top jug, changed my sequence and sent it next go. It’s quite high so sorting out the top out on sight was exciting – managed to keep cool (back in the ‘zone’ a bit) and soaked up the adrenaline once on top. Finished the evening off with a quick (10 goes ish) repeat ascent of the knacky, technical The Arete (F7A), which was greasy and great in equal measure. I felt that I climbed this with much better style than when I did it as my first 7A about 3 years ago – progress!
Friday – Digging in the garden.
Saturday – Biblins Cave. ‘Retroflashed’ The Bulge (7A) first go as first warm up problem – quite surprised! Revisited the moves at the end of School’s Out For Summer (F7A+), having done them last summer) and sent ‘em 3 times after practice. Went for the send and fell out of the very last move four times – next time! Worked the some of the moves on School of Burl (F7B) and made great progress; having gotten the lesser part of nowhere on it last year, I got up to the undercut (3 moves from end) and was actually useful on it! I beasted myself on this so could only manage one sad and solitary campus move from the actual start holds of The Bulge Footless (F7B) to finish. Headed home a happy chappy!
Sunday – Digging all day for ‘Supershed’ which’ll house a home clambering wall. Evening run: STP: Long Run – 12.5KM in 1:02:20. I felt pretty tired, with no oomph – rest needed.
Weight = must be still be portly as the scales are still broken.
July 2015
Goals
Right then, goals:
Review of STG (continued from Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both). Nope
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power. All but slopers improving, more of these needed - Still a no – snapped a key crimp on Between The Lines and didn’t manage Underhand (got super close though)
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far. – Didn’t really try any new ones so ongoing - still ongoing.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness. - not been indoors much recently but definitely climbing more.
MTG (continued from Easter)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a) haven’t been on it for weeks – this could be an ambitious goal,
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave – getting the moves worked out.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh? Need to try some more 7Bs!
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone – visiting for a week soon.
Build a training wall in the loft. Wall is now going in a new ‘Supershed’ which I’m busy sorting out right now – whoop whoop!
Run an 18 min 5K – not really run much for weeks.
Run a mile in 5 mins – as above.
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C - ongoing.
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife – not gonna happen as she’s pregnant – bambino due in December.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them! Made a start – feels goooood! - done more silly adventures/long runs.
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
New Goals
Well, it’s felt like, after making a heap of progress the year before last, that this year I’ve consolidated rather than moved on. I’ve got better at working out sequences, executing moves consistently once worked out and my confidence in my ability has grown, as has my dynamic movement. I don’t feel any stronger but more ‘tenacious’.
I’ve identified the following weaknesses (which I’ve been mostly ignoring/dabbling with for a while now):
Front 2 and back 2 finger strength,
Hanging slopers (both duration and slope-iness,
Stamina: the Strava running plan has taught me that to get better at short, intense stuff, I need to have better endurance – more is more! So, will add in volume of easier stuff (easy in the new home wall).
Do more trad/highballing: it’s good for my confidence and I’d forgotten how much I love it – will help endurance too.
Do more sport climbing: as above.
Take some lobs, lots of lobs.
My finger strength is generally pretty good but my arms, shoulders and core are the weak link – they tire first on the fingerboard programs. Lots to do on this.
Do more ‘additional’ exercises e.g. core stuff etc.
Work out how to fit this all together.
If you've read this far, your endurance is way better than my climbing endurance and you've just done F8C+/9A (in epic reading)!
Love from,
Joyce,
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