UKC

Hi I've recently been working on a sandstone quarry and am about to place the anchors. Research suggests that chemical anchors are the only way to go in this soft sedimentary rock , but am struggling to source a decent outlet for purchasing them....... So, I'm thinking of making my own 'staple ' type anchors out of highest grade stainless 8mm bar. I've been on the relevant websites with regard to the recommended methods of attachment . Does anyone know where I can get resin anchors, contacts or outlets, and I'd also like your thoughts on me making them myself. Rest assured, the job will be done to the highest standard as I am always suspicious of the security of all bolt placements. Thanks

In reply to hutster781:

Www.bolt-products.com

While I'd happily hang off a bolt I had made myself I wouldn't ask someone else to do it

In reply to Reach>Talent:

Thanks for the website. I'll take a look now. I tend to have more of a problem with, how and by whom a bolt was fixed as anyone can do this without having any training ! And yet the majority of climbers don't give this a second thought and are potentially risking there life hanging off bolts that were badly fitted or have not taken into consideration of the degradation of the resins used. Let's not assume these things are bomb proof

In reply to hutster781: But you obviously untrained and are thinking of installing home made bolts, using non-standard resin, and still making a statement like this!
Takes all sorts.

In reply to hutster781:

Where about in the country are you?

I work in the fixings industry and can give you contact details for an outlet close to you.

Brands to go for would be:
HILTI, SPIT or Fischer.
All are reputable fixings manufacturers with good technical back up.

In reply to JPHOGAN:

None of the companies mentioned manufacture anchors certified for use rock climbing.

In reply to johncook:

Back in the day "training" was reading the likes of the Petzl catalogue while taking a dump

e.g. http://www.petzl.com/sfc/servlet.shepherd/version/download/068w0000001b1WRA...

Being serious though, some people have a technical background and easily gained information is enough to translate what they already know to climbing applications through some supplemental info. Some absolutely don't.

What about dropping a line to one of the local bolt fund groups and seeing if you can tag along to get some experience from someone that has placed a lot of bolts and seen examples of "less than ideal practice". I think the people involved would be happy the support this(?) as making sure no substandard equipping goes on is just as valuable as replacing ageing placements.

Links to area specific initiatives here

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/better-bolts-campaign-summary

In reply to JPHOGAN:
Hi Mitch
I did Mister Blister today, with a direct start (did it originally traverse in from the right?)
It felt hard, a spicy F7c+, took a couple of sessions. Must have been one of the hardest things around at the time?
Great moves into the hanging crack.

Thanks
Mark (Rankine)

A bit off target,this post,but I use a public library computer,with a security filter, and can't open a new post to Rock Talk.This route was done in Miller's Dale,across the river from the Angler's Rest.Was done on situ gear,a hammered hex and 2 pegs.Now a classic with bolts.Mark retro bolted it with my say so.It did come from the right when I did it.I had about 4 falls and thought it was good English 6c.

In reply to hutster781:

Can you clarify what you mean by "staple type anchors"? Do you mean a classic u-shaped staple with two entry points into the rock, or the style that Jim sells on boltproducts.com? If it's the former - seriously reconsider this. Having two holes in the rock so close together isn't good - it can create fractures in the rock.

In reply to hutster781:

I've heard that some of the u-shaped bolts down at Swanage/Portland are made from high-grade marine steel rod bent into a u staple shape with a custom jig. Done this way because the steel used in commercially produced anchors was not resistant enough to corrosion from the sea environment. I think if you make them yourself though, you've really really got to know what you are doing. There are commercially available glue-in bolts, maybe have a look at http://wavebolt.com/

In reply to hutster781:

Having placed literally thousands of bolts over the last 31 years (moving with the times as I go along) I would strongly advise not going backwards in time by making your own bolts. That is going back to early-mid 90's
Instead check out the bolt products link above. Excellent kit that really is affordable.
Don't skimp on resin either. Cheap should not be a consideration when choosing resin!

In reply to hutster781:

Definitely don't use u bolts in sand stone as others have mentioned , definitely don't use homemade bolts anywhere , and definitely DO use bolt products twisted rod bolts specifically designed for sandstone , few years of heavy use at frogsmouth and they are still bomber ! You also need to practice before placing bolts that others may trust their life on !! P,s don't drill holes in the base
of the crag ! E,g Go to and old quarry and find some blocks on the floor

In reply to hutster781:


Apologies if this comes across overly harsh, but aren't you asking anyone else who goes on the routes you're planning on bolting to do exactly that, ie. put faith in something they know nothing about? I realise when climbing on bolts we kind of do that anyway, but I think most of us assume that appropriately tested, certified equipment has been used and that it has not been placed by someone essentially trying to reinvent the wheel?

Why do you believe your bolts and their placement will be better than those done by others?

In reply to hutster781:

Thank you for all your valued thoughts/ comments, it's what I wanted to hear. I now have a supplier and will be tagging along with a local bolting team to learn the necessary skills.

In reply to hutster781:

Before you bolt this quarry you should really be contacting the local BMC SW access reps to ensure there are no knock-on access issues.

In reply to hutster781:

Is the quarry in the Bristol area?

In reply to johncook:
Hi, I was only 'thinking' these ideas , so posted essentially for advice, and was never going to go ahead and do any sub- standard bolting using inadequate resin .I'm glad to say that some replies were very useful which has given me the knowledge to continue in the right direction re: bolting routes.

In reply to Urgles:

Hi, yes it is!

In reply

I'm not saying all bolt placements are inferior to what I would place, but I have witnessed bolts being glued badly so naturally I do not have a blind faith where bolts are concerned.

In reply to hutster781:

Wheareabouts?

(you dont have to say exactly where and you can email me if you prefer)

Myself and a friend have developed several sandstone quarries in the area over the last few years and I just want to check you are not putting any bolts in there.

cheers

Mark

In reply to Urgles:

Useful then if you were to publish the info....

In reply to sheppy:

Exactly what will be happening in the forthcoming guidebook.

hopefully not all retobolted before that happens.

In reply to Urgles:

Hi Mark. I'll pop you an email. Cheers