UKC

Having recently done some slate routes around E3-ish (including Off the Beaten Track, Remain in Light and Watch Me Wallaby) I need a new tick list. Any suggestions for good slate routes around E3 and E4?

Preferably not horribly pumpy things like The Mau Mau ('cos my arms would wilt) and preferably not routes where the first gear is ludicrously high, like Slug Club Special, or non-existent. Thanks for any recommendations. (I know about the Dervish and Goose Creature.)

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Dinorwig Unconquerable (E3 5c)

In reply to Samuel Wainwright:


From the logbooks: "Sweet Baby Jesus this is horrible... Mad route, one for the sadists. Looking forward to getting back on. Note: cams do rip."

In reply to Coel Hellier:
Here's a few, (though worth getting a copy of 'Llanberis Slate' to make your own choices if you don't already have it). Anything with a star or more is usually worth doing.

Zzzooming The Tube (E3 6a)
Ritter Sport (E3 5c)
Colossus (E3 5c)
Scarlet Runner Direct (E3 6a)
Hamadryad (E3 5c)
Red Throated Diver (6b+)
Off the Beaten Track (E3 5c)

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Path To Rome, Vulture, Pagan, Dogs Of War, and anything at Hyll Drem. That's what you really were asking for, right??

In reply to Coel Hellier:
And at E4...

Putting on Ayres (E4 6c)
Jack of Shadows (E4 6a)
Great Balls of Fire (E4 6a)
Menai Vice (E4 6c)
Ride the Wild Surf (E4 6a)
The Sweetest Taboo (E4 6a)
Short Stories (E4 6a)
Slug Club Special (E5 6a)
Swan Hunter (E4 6b)
Shtimuli (E4 6a)
Kubla Khan (E3 6b)
The Gorbals (E4 6a)

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Thanks for the suggestions Ian. Yes, I do have a copy of the guide.

(Though one can't always trust guides, as we found out on Yellow Wall. It gives both Tentative Decisions and Remain in Light mid-E4, whereas the latter is a good one and a half to two grades easier; maybe E5 and E3 respectively.)

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Thanks for the E4 list Ian.

Though Sweetest Taboo and Slug Club likely violate the "first gear at ludicrous height" criterion. Also I likely wouldn't stand a chance on 6c routes like Menai Vice and Putting on Ayres (I found Watch Me Wallaby hard enough), and I'd likely be equally bad at routes described as a "total pumpfest" like Ride the Wild Surf.

The Gorbals, though, might go on the list. Maybe also Men at Leisure.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Manatese perhaps? Haven't done it, but UKC comments say good gear.

In reply to Coel Hellier:


The Gorbals level's great, surprised it doesn't get much attention really. If the run outs are too much on the Gorbals, lots of well bolted sport routes nearby.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

comes the dervish

In reply to spidermonkey09:

Manatese is a good one, good gear, just a tricky start section then nice laybacking all the way up.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I seem to remember someone saying a hold had come off at the crux on Remain in the Light which has made it slightly easier.

Don't be put off by Slug Club, I know 2 people who have taken the fall before the gear and both got straight back on and did it.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

Also:

Scheherezade (E4 6b)

fits the bill. The crux is well protected but nails!

In reply to SGD:

I took the fall before the gear and bailed on the spot, didn't think it was easy and found it polished.

In reply to Sl@te Head:


Thanks for the advice everyone -- Gorbals level it is for the next trip!