UKC

Hello folks, looks like I will be moving to Scotland in a month or two, west of Dumfries. Looking forwards to having local crags again, and will hopefully be checking out a fair few. Does anyone have a recommendations in Galloway Forest Park and coast surrounding it? All trad or some sport? What kind of gear will I need? My trad rack has been kind of underused the past few years, might need some shiney new stuff.

Ta,

Jay

In reply to Jay81:
Have only been to a few crags in the Dumfries area, all trad.
Cliffton is a good single pitch granite crag with lots of routes sub E1.
Meikle Ross on the coast near Kirkcudbright has some good single and multi pitch routes on Greywache mostly non tidal.
The Thirlstane is worth a look with its sea arch, routes and some bouldering.
Corwar is a superb hidden granite slab near Newton Stewart and the biking centre of Kirroughtree.

Check out John Biggar web site as it is a wealth of information on the crags in the area with topos

The SMC guide Lowland Outcrops may be worth getting as well.

Lots of other good spots along the coast as far as Stranraer and mountain crags in the Galloway hills.

In reply to petegunn:

Great, thanks! That website looks really helpful.

In reply to Jay81:

Ive only climbed at Meikle Ross but I loved it and would strongly recommend it.

take abseil gear as walking back round to the bottom is time consuming and a bit hairy in places