UKC

Crispy shredded hands

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 rockjedi12345 02 Sep 2015
So I have completed phase 1 of my wall.... (I'm a very happy person!)

But.......

My hands are taking a battering. I have very little indoor experiance favouring trad. But I'm not getting any younger fitter or have any more time and as such built my own little wall to make the most of my time outside. What advice for taping and looking after hands? Any recommendations for tape? And techniques of taping....

James
 stp 03 Sep 2015
In reply to rockjedi12345:
It's a bit of cliche but very apt when talking about looking after the skin on your fingers: prevention is the best cure.

Don't let you skin get so bad so that it can't recover before your next session.

There are varous ways to do this:
1. Avoid climbing in high humidity or hot conditions. Skin wears much faster when you sweat more.
2. Avoid a lot of dynos esp. in hot/humid conditions
3. Get a cool fan on you when climbing.
4. Vary the grip type: pockets, crimps, big holds, slopers all wear the skin in different ways.
5. Different holds. Some people don't like plastic at all and prefer to train on wooden holds which is much less wearing on the skin. Certainly new plastic holds can be very abrasive on the skin and get less so with use.
6. Wash chalk off hands straight after climbing.

Whilst tape is useful for outdoor climbing you shouldn't have to tape much at all when training. If you need tape then some kind of zinc oxide tape is what you want. The french brand Strappal is popular with climbers (available at the Climbing Works). Johnson & Johnson is another but any type from a chemist should be OK. Occasionally you might want to superglue the tape on for extra grip. But personally I've never had to do that for indoor training. There are various creams/mosturisers you can get though not sure if any really help.
Post edited at 15:21
OP rockjedi12345 03 Sep 2015
In reply to stp:

That's great advice cheers
 MischaHY 03 Sep 2015
In reply to rockjedi12345:

At the end of every session wash excess chalk off and apply liberal amounts of Climb On/Pro Balm. Combined with a bit of skin maintenance with a sandpaper file this will toughen your skin up well.
OP rockjedi12345 03 Sep 2015
In reply to MischaHY:

I didn't think I had soft hands to start with! I obviously do......

Thanks for the advice

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