UKC

Hi,

I'm looking for a North Wales sport climbing venue for this weekend as we're there for a couple of days. I'm looking at Castle Inn quarry at the moment as it seems to suit our experience levels. I've done some sports climbing in Europe and my partner has only done indoor lead so a range of lower grades would be good. The plan is for me to lead then my partner can top rope the same route to build her confidence. Does any one have other recommendations in that area?

Cheers,

Paul

In reply to PWarren:
Castle inn is extremely run out, harshly graded with some nice routes. Worth going

In reply to PWarren:

Dyserth Castle Slab

Worth a look, has some nice slabby routes in the modest grades.

In reply to zimpara:

I assume you are taking the michael. The routes on the RHS of castle are neither run out or harshly graded

In reply to PWarren:

Castle Inn is fine for lower grade routes - plenty of them to go at and not run-out for the lower grade routes.
Be careful with a couple of the really easy routes, particularly 'Initiation' - they are tempting as first leads but have loose or missing bolts on the lower offs at the moment.

The other place for low grade sport is Penmaenbach Quarry
The low grade routes aren't in the guidebooks, but there's a topo here http://www.v12outdoornews.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Penmaenbach-A55-topo-V2....

In reply to zimpara:

Thanks for the info - what do you call an extremely long run out?! When I was climbing in Belgium the distance was about 10-12 feet between bolts.

In reply to PWarren:

Most of the routes are adequately/normally bolted - a handful are not but they're obvious. As for grades - about right for most Route 2 is quite technical for 6a though!

In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks for the beta on the bolts, not something I can know before going so invaluable. Looking at the topo you've linked that seems perfect - we might manage a trip to both