UKC

Whats the easiest route you've used skyhooks on?

I dont own any but I quite fancy getting some.

I know somebody who, working on a guidebook, regraded a bold and dangerous HVS to VS with the use of a couple of skyhooks.

(Seemed a bit misguided to me though)

In reply to Urgles:
I've only ever used one once while free climbing, on an E4. Be careful though, as they're next to useless on some mediums and can leave a nasty scar.

Edit: Sorry, just looked at your profile. You'll know all about varying rock types with all that experience.

In reply to Urgles:

I used one on a short finnish 4+, the hook and a fiddly HB brass offset #2 were all the gear that protected to route (about mid height) on not so stellar granite (ie. holds/crystal could and did break from time to time). So the Tech grade would have been abound 4a or so. No idea of adjectival grade.

In reply to Mark Collins:

Nah, I wouldn't dream of using them on the choss that i usually climb on!

In reply to Urgles:

I've used them on sub extreme but more convenience than need (snatching a rest rather than a fall on good gear). They are good to carry on bold routes with lots of incut edges... psychological help to stay calm such that you rarely need to call them into practice. Also used them as back-up on a few shite belays and obviously for aid. Never fallen on one.

In reply to Offwidth:

yeah I know a few friends have carried them on bold slate routes to bail off if it all gets a bit too exciting. Apparently the sharp edges mean they sit well.

In reply to Urgles:

I used a skyhook at Berry Head while soloing around the bottom of the HVS Moonraker. It allowed me to get into positions to take photos, both hands free. Felt surprisingly secure on the big juggy breaks there.



Well if that's the kind of idiot we have working on our guidebooks no wonder the grading system is a complete mess.

In reply to Mark Collins:


I took one to Wilton with the intention - appropriately - of using it on Cheat. Decided to try it out at ground level first, and it cut through the test hold like butter.

In reply to AlanLittle:


Interesting, as I had the prow down as just about the hardest piece of gritstone there is. I don't know how you got on on Cheat but I did manage to get a couple of black diamond micro nuts in the highest break if that's any help. I never tested them, but have fallen onto standard sized nuts in the break below.

In reply to Urgles:

Used one at 45ft as second runner. 1st runner at 12 ft.
Lakes slate route.
Then graded E2 5b
Now gets E3 5c with bolts!

In reply to Urgles:

I wouldn't dream of climbing on the Choss you usually climb on!

In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:

I would have thought a shockloaded skyhook was the perfect tool for cleaving bits of slate off!

In reply to Urgles:

The Long Reach - Etive Slabs. Wish we'd carried 2! Blu-tack is useful.

Andy

In reply to pasbury:


That may or may not be the case, but given the potential to hit the deck from 65 feet or so, I'll take any form of deceleration I can arrange!

;~))

In reply to Urgles: I suppose the easiest thing has been, unsurprisingly, on a C2 aid route in the Valley.
Apart from The Scoop, I've never used them in the UK, and scarely they were insitu!