In reply to UKC Articles:
An absolutely fascinating article. Congratulations to Morna Middleton!
I'm guessing the road to routesetting is an arduous one - irrespective of gender. But if you love what you do...
Re gender, surely climbing's come of age where folk are rated in terms of talent, rather than gender? Is it nearly 25 years ago since Lynn Hill showed that a woman could do what no man could then do ?
Qualifications - hmm... Generally I regard them as the royal road to mediocrity but they're probably inevitable. But, as was said, having a qualification doesn't actually make you any good at what you do. It would be a minimum standard, no more.
I only know two people who route set. The first does so locally on an unpaid basis in an environment rich with bureaucracy. I think he has to do wanky courses and is overseen by people who aren't climbers. But, despite this, his best routes are pure poetry.
The other is pretty much the doyen of routesetters, mentioned in the article but he certainly wouldn't want me to name him. He's done it for years, loves it, lives and breathes climbing (in a good, not obsessive way), has climbed to a high standard here, there and everywhere. I'm sure he'd be utterly supportive of good women routesetters (as would be the first person). He's always in pursuit of 'the beautiful move' and when you finesse your way through a beautiful move, you know the routesetter's given you an experience you wouldn't have had otherwise. Whether female or male, you raise your hat to them.
Mick