UKC

Blatant beta request for the crux of The Medium (8a)

I can do the lunge to the 9mm "jug" consistently, starting with my right toe in the chipped scoop by bolt 2, but getting established in that scoop is proving the hardest part for me; I've found two options, but both are proving hard:

1) Chipped scoops to the right of bolt 2, then a very sustained sequence to get leftwards and finally get right foot into the top scoop to do the final lunge.

2) Much less sustained, thin edges to the left of bolt 2, with a very hard rock over to get established in the chipped scoop

Any other options i've missed?

In reply to Ally Smith:

i have just starting working this and have the same problem! someone tole me to step out left and pull a tiny sidpull with your right hand and ruck up into one of the pockets! seemed possible but v hard

In reply to Ally Smith:

Wow! Really interesting use of the internet. Makes me wonder if the internet will become an essential tool for hard climbing in the future.

Good luck with the route.