UKC

Does anyone know what the most lightweight set of 'normal' size 1-10 nuts is? Is there a particular set that is popular/recommended but also very light?

Thanks very myth for your help guys, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

In reply to Rapsling:

I wouldn't worry about weight too much if it's your first set. The main choices in the UK are Wild Country Rocks, DMM Wallnuts and possibly BD Stoppers. My preference are Rocks because of their more geometric profile which makes them easier to place and remove. Wallnuts are more curved which can make them better on limestone.

I think a set of whatever brand weighs about the same. Most climbers will probably carry more than a single set for longer routes, so doubling up on the small to medium sizes can be a good idea. Some will carry a set of Rocks and Wallnuts.

In reply to Rapsling:

If it is weight you're interested in then there are these

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=880

In reply to Rapsling:

Or these:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2209

In reply to Rapsling:

The metolius ones. They seat better than rocks or wallnuts imo.

In reply to Rapsling:

Again I wouldn't worry about weight as when your starting out you normally take everything to get a feel for what works for you.

I have BD stoppers and DMM walnuts and I like the shape of stoppers which I seem to use more but I find the walnuts seat really solid but are really hard to get out. Then again when your leading its funny to watch your second struggle

In reply to Rapsling:
Not sure what you define normal as...

I have a 1 - 10 set in the Wild Country superlight (1-4) / superlight offset (5-10) and the set weighs 220g from memory, compared to my normal set of old DMM nuts that is about 420g. The offset on the 5 - 10 nuts isn't as much as the DMM offsets, they are more like a normal nut with the bonus of an offset on it.

In reply to BStar:

Thanks very much for your help, and thank you to everyone else for the suggestions. Sounds like a reasonably usable and very lightweight solution could be Wild Country Superlight #1-3, #5-6; Wild Country Superlight Offset #7-10; and Metolius Ultralight Curved Nut #4. (Have Wild Country discontinued their size 4 nut, or am I just really bad at googling?)

That would come to ~222g before doubling up on smaller sizes. Doesn't seem to be possible to go any lighter than that, and from what I can see there aren't any huge problems with the usability of the gear beyond the Metolius one maybe being less easy to clean.

Again, thank you very much for the tips, everyone - much appreciated.

In reply to Rapsling:

After discussion in another thread, it turns out a factory equipment failure at Wild Country has made the production of #4 Superlights temporarily grind to a halt, although this is being addressed.

I suppose that leaves the question of what item most closely resembles a Wild Country Superlight #4 without in fact being one? Perhaps a #4 Metolius Ultralight Curved Nut would be a suitable stop-gap.

In reply to Rapsling:

Does the weight make that much difference, I normally lead with two full sets of nuts and it's more the cams and hexes that make the difference?

Personally I love the DMM set, prefer them to the Black Diamonds as they seem to sit better.

In reply to Rapsling:
Just get a set of walnuts or rocks before you worry about offsets or superlights... get them as your second set later.

In reply to treforsouthwell:

Thank you very much for the advice, treforsouthwell - certainly seems to be a popular opinion in the thread. I appreciate the wisdom.

The kind of places most of my climbing happens tends to be 'chockier', unnamed routes on European mountains, rather than decent British crags I'm afraid. The question of 'what is the lightest option available' tends to come up w.r.t. everything from stoves to first aid kits when the approach is measured in days... This is why I keep prattling on about rack weight in various threads lol

You've got an excellent point about the cams and hexes - I can see you know what you're talking about. Turned out that DMM torque nuts on Dyneema turned out to be the only acceptable solution if you're interested. The community here has also been kind enough to guide me towards the Grivel Plume K3N and Edelrid 19G - the world's lightest locking and non-locking/quickdraw carabiners, respectively.

Thank you again to you and to everyone who chipped in with advice - I really appreciate your time.