UKC

Hi all,

The Keele University Climbing club will be heading to the Roaches on Saturday the 3rd October (weather dependant) for a day out with the new recruits/freshers. I just want to post this to allow folk to know, but not in anyway to sound like we are booking the crag at all!
We may set up a top rope or two in the morning, and head out separately doing more traditional climbing in small groups, and there will also be some folk walking the footpaths too.
We will try to minimise the disturbance as much as possible caused by our presence. We're considerate too, and will ensure no litter is left. Also, most if not all climbers will be wearing rock shoes.
But please do say hello too, we're a friendly bunch!

In reply to jack_44:

Does the club use the wall at the university?

In reply to jack_44:

We certainly do. On a Tuesday and Thursday evening.

In reply to jack_44:

I used to pop up occasionally , some of the natural rock features are really polished!

In reply to jack_44:

Have the BMC guidelines changed? The Roaches always used to be one of the crags specifically mentioned as unsuitable for large groups.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Taken from the BMC RAD page on The Roaches ( https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/viewcrag.aspx?id=314 ):

"Group Advice
Environmental damage is being done to certain areas at the Lower and Upper Tier. This is exacerbated in wet conditions. Please do not use bouldering areas for boulder hopping or running up and down. Do not abseil and in particular not down any of the slab routes. If you intend to use any area for an extended period of time be sensitive to the needs of others who may wish to use it. Do not leave ropes in situ. All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC guidelines for group use, see here, http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=350"

In reply to joel182:

Fair enough - yes the BMC advice has been updated

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

There have been recent problems with rope damage on the right of the lower tier... reported at the last area meeting...

In reply to Pkrynicki1984:

Yeah, they are quite polished. We are looking into the possibility of repainting it, ideally with something that would help increase grip. Your more than welcome to come up to the wall to see us too.

In reply to jack_44:

Ok, I must apologise as I didn't know there were an restrictions in place by the BMC. Do you have any advice as to where would be more suitable? Would heading over to Skyline be a better idea? Or potentially the left-hand section of the Upper tier where Rooster is? We did have the intention to set up a top rope or possibly two for a short period of time in the morning, before splitting up to climb routes traditionally.

In reply to jack_44:

Any issues are always on RAD.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/Search.aspx?s=-1&t=&r=32

There dont seem to be any at present... the point on rope damage was bad practice or vandelism by some unknown party.