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Recently, climbing with my daughter in Langdale I pointed her at Mendes, which of course she cruised effortlessly. I followed and enjoyed the route greatly. When I looked at my UKC logbook I found this was my 8th ascent of the route. I still think it's a superb route (which lots of people never notice - people at the top of Evening Wall were calling across to find out which route we were doing). Do other people have their own examples of routes to do time after time and never feel tired of?
In reply to Rog Wilko:
I seem to have spent an inordinate amount of time doing Trinity Slabs at Wallowbarrow, mainly because I use it for moving novice mates onto multipitching. It still keeps me entertained. Also same crag could do Paradise and Parallel at every visit and not get fed up. Maybe I'm just easy to please.
Ditto Truss Buttress and Kennel Wall at Gouther.
I seem to have spent an inordinate amount of time doing Trinity Slabs at Wallowbarrow, mainly because I use it for moving novice mates onto multipitching. It still keeps me entertained. Also same crag could do Paradise and Parallel at every visit and not get fed up. Maybe I'm just easy to please.
Ditto Truss Buttress and Kennel Wall at Gouther.
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
The Night Watch (VS 4b)
I've logged 14 ascents since I first climbed in in 1998, but I expect I've done it a few more than that over the years!
The Night Watch (VS 4b)
I've logged 14 ascents since I first climbed in in 1998, but I expect I've done it a few more than that over the years!
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Possibly Golden Slipper (HVS 5a) on Pavey. Done it loads of times - I think my guidebook ended up just with a list of dates filling the margins around it.
Possibly Golden Slipper (HVS 5a) on Pavey. Done it loads of times - I think my guidebook ended up just with a list of dates filling the margins around it.
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Diocese, Chair Ladder. On average, I've done it at least once a year for the last 15 years.
Diocese, Chair Ladder. On average, I've done it at least once a year for the last 15 years.
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In reply to Rog Wilko: I can't remember how many times I've done Bottle Buttress at Wintour's Leap.
Not everyone's favorite perhaps but I've always enjoyed it.
T.
Not everyone's favorite perhaps but I've always enjoyed it.
T.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Grooved Arete, Tryfan.
Just lovely and more or less takes you to a summit. Like the alps, but without the fear and exhaustion. Summer or winter
Grooved Arete, Tryfan.
Just lovely and more or less takes you to a summit. Like the alps, but without the fear and exhaustion. Summer or winter
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In reply to pneame:
GA is a route I have done several times always at someone else's request and each time I swear never again. The last time I was on Tryfan with Bellevue Bastion as the target climb, I jumped up and down and said 'we're not doing GA to get there'.
GA is a route I have done several times always at someone else's request and each time I swear never again. The last time I was on Tryfan with Bellevue Bastion as the target climb, I jumped up and down and said 'we're not doing GA to get there'.
In reply to Rog Wilko: Minus Ten at Stoney. It is possible that I am totally responsible for the polish on the main part of the route, The bottom 15ft or so are the responsibility of the boulderers!
It is a route I like and that suits my 'style', such as it is. I do it almost every time I go to Stoney, and have even been known to do lead laps on it (15 is my best, but one day!).
It is a route I like and that suits my 'style', such as it is. I do it almost every time I go to Stoney, and have even been known to do lead laps on it (15 is my best, but one day!).
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Not sure. There's a few I've done 2 or 3 times (aside from training in my local quarry) but I've never really been attracted to repeating stuff. My loss maybe but then I keep reasoning there's still time to do that!
Not sure. There's a few I've done 2 or 3 times (aside from training in my local quarry) but I've never really been attracted to repeating stuff. My loss maybe but then I keep reasoning there's still time to do that!
In reply to IanMcC:
The 1980's & 90's were a time when a young family was the priority so climbing was a a few snatched moments. A consistent element was a holiday in the Lakes which always included a visit to Upper Scout Crag in Langdale to solo the two main routes. This event became a calibration experience of my climbing ability - sometimes straightforward but occasionally challenging - my old notes suggest I managed about 18 years longevity before other factors interrupted the pattern. Perhaps a target for next year is to re-instate it.
The 1980's & 90's were a time when a young family was the priority so climbing was a a few snatched moments. A consistent element was a holiday in the Lakes which always included a visit to Upper Scout Crag in Langdale to solo the two main routes. This event became a calibration experience of my climbing ability - sometimes straightforward but occasionally challenging - my old notes suggest I managed about 18 years longevity before other factors interrupted the pattern. Perhaps a target for next year is to re-instate it.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
One that sticks in my mind is North Buttress on Tryfan. Very good for taking novices up, to get the feel of a big mountain route, mostly very easy. Great traverse onto the very exposed Belle Vue Terrace. BTW, the UKC description of this is quite atrociously bad. It says '7 pitches' (probably about right) and just bothers to mention the first three. The first pitch it says, 'Scurry up the corner'. I remember this as a fine groove and much the hardest part of the route. I've got no idea what it means by scurrying, but it wrongly makes it sound like a scramble. The pitch '3' is virtually unintelligible, and there's no mention of the traverse onto Belle Vue Terrace, which is pretty much the raison d'etre of the entire route.
One that sticks in my mind is North Buttress on Tryfan. Very good for taking novices up, to get the feel of a big mountain route, mostly very easy. Great traverse onto the very exposed Belle Vue Terrace. BTW, the UKC description of this is quite atrociously bad. It says '7 pitches' (probably about right) and just bothers to mention the first three. The first pitch it says, 'Scurry up the corner'. I remember this as a fine groove and much the hardest part of the route. I've got no idea what it means by scurrying, but it wrongly makes it sound like a scramble. The pitch '3' is virtually unintelligible, and there's no mention of the traverse onto Belle Vue Terrace, which is pretty much the raison d'etre of the entire route.
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In reply to Ann S:
To each their own! I suppose I have a particular affection for Tryfan as it was the first place I did a multipitch climb.
Now, if it was busy, I'd be gnashing my teeth in frustration. And it is a bit polished. To put it mildly. And last time was over 10 years ago, so I hate to think what it's like now.
To each their own! I suppose I have a particular affection for Tryfan as it was the first place I did a multipitch climb.
Now, if it was busy, I'd be gnashing my teeth in frustration. And it is a bit polished. To put it mildly. And last time was over 10 years ago, so I hate to think what it's like now.
In reply to bill briggs1:
Is that a record Bill?
> Right Unconquerable solo 200+ times over 40 years , never got tired of it.
Is that a record Bill?
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Hargreaves Original. Many dozens (hundreds?) of solo ascents. A route you must always respect.
And Heaven Crack because it's, well... heaven.
Mick
Hargreaves Original. Many dozens (hundreds?) of solo ascents. A route you must always respect.
And Heaven Crack because it's, well... heaven.
Mick
In reply to Pursued by a bear:
Central Rib Route for me, I've lost count, I never know if I am going to have to use the tree on the corner or not. Did BB once and that was enough!
Central Rib Route for me, I've lost count, I never know if I am going to have to use the tree on the corner or not. Did BB once and that was enough!
In reply to pneame:
It's the first pitch, thrutchy and polished, which always puts me in a bad temper whether leading or 2nd.
It's the first pitch, thrutchy and polished, which always puts me in a bad temper whether leading or 2nd.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
BTW, I find this thread topic slightly odd, because – I'm sure it's not just me – I always had it as a kind of policy from my earliest days of climbing to try and avoid repeating routes as far as possible. I.e. it always had to be something new. Perhaps this is because – when I was climbing regularly – I always lived in London and S/E and just couldn't afford the indulgence of repetition.
BTW, I find this thread topic slightly odd, because – I'm sure it's not just me – I always had it as a kind of policy from my earliest days of climbing to try and avoid repeating routes as far as possible. I.e. it always had to be something new. Perhaps this is because – when I was climbing regularly – I always lived in London and S/E and just couldn't afford the indulgence of repetition.
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In reply to Mick Ward:
I'm not sure soloing it shows respect.
> Hargreaves Original. Many dozens (hundreds?) of solo ascents. A route you must always respect.
I'm not sure soloing it shows respect.
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In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I've often thought that an interesting development in terms of climbing ethics would be that you only do a route once. Would save on wear and tear on routes and save them for future climbers. Not going to happen of course.
I've often thought that an interesting development in terms of climbing ethics would be that you only do a route once. Would save on wear and tear on routes and save them for future climbers. Not going to happen of course.
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Until the advent of modern nuts/friends it WAS a solo.
> I'm not sure soloing it shows respect.
Until the advent of modern nuts/friends it WAS a solo.
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In reply to Ann S:
I'll agree to that - it's not the best start. But after that, great. As long as it's not busy.
I'll agree to that - it's not the best start. But after that, great. As long as it's not busy.
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
it always had to be something new.
I love doing something new, as my various climbing partners can confirm! It always pays if you're climbing with me to have a plan yourself, and get in first or you'll find yourself at some way-out esoteric crag covered in moss trying to find a new route vaguely described on the F&R website. But other days I love doing the old favourites.
it always had to be something new.
I love doing something new, as my various climbing partners can confirm! It always pays if you're climbing with me to have a plan yourself, and get in first or you'll find yourself at some way-out esoteric crag covered in moss trying to find a new route vaguely described on the F&R website. But other days I love doing the old favourites.
In reply to Darron:
Of course, you could never make that happen. But the idea of repetition, except perhaps on your local crag as training (e.g. we repeated climbs at Harrisons Rocks dozens of times) or taking beginners up a climb, was rather contrary to the spirit of the sport to me.
> I've often thought that an interesting development in terms of climbing ethics would be that you only do a route once. Would save on wear and tear on routes and save them for future climbers. Not going to happen of course.
Of course, you could never make that happen. But the idea of repetition, except perhaps on your local crag as training (e.g. we repeated climbs at Harrisons Rocks dozens of times) or taking beginners up a climb, was rather contrary to the spirit of the sport to me.
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Gosh, that's an interesting perspective. Perhaps you're right but I've never thought of it like that. With much, much harder routes that I've soloed, it's as though I've given them the chance to kill me (except, of course, it would have only been my own weakness that got me killed) yet they didn't succeed. It's as though each one was an opponent to whom you bowed... and fought... and bowed. Always (for me) with respect.
Mick
P.S. I suspect that if you solo for long enough without respect then you will almost certainly die. Would be interesting though to see what others think.
> I'm not sure soloing it shows respect.
Gosh, that's an interesting perspective. Perhaps you're right but I've never thought of it like that. With much, much harder routes that I've soloed, it's as though I've given them the chance to kill me (except, of course, it would have only been my own weakness that got me killed) yet they didn't succeed. It's as though each one was an opponent to whom you bowed... and fought... and bowed. Always (for me) with respect.
Mick
P.S. I suspect that if you solo for long enough without respect then you will almost certainly die. Would be interesting though to see what others think.
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In reply to Mick Ward:
So true Mick.
I've always done plenty of soloing, but many years back I started to push it out a bit too much in the onsight department. A very very narrow escape when I got things wrong on Dry Gasp, was a big wake up call, and I certainly dialed it down after that.
Ironically though, it seems to be the easy routes which have been the silent assassins of several notable extreme soloists.
> P.S. I suspect that if you solo for long enough without respect then you will almost certainly die. Would be interesting though to see what others think.
So true Mick.
I've always done plenty of soloing, but many years back I started to push it out a bit too much in the onsight department. A very very narrow escape when I got things wrong on Dry Gasp, was a big wake up call, and I certainly dialed it down after that.
Ironically though, it seems to be the easy routes which have been the silent assassins of several notable extreme soloists.
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In reply to John Kelly:
HOW many?? Bloody hell.
I used to solo Mantelpiece Buttress Direct every time I went to that end of Stanage, childishly enjoying the effect this created on the inevitable helmeted groups of boy scouts. The one day somehow it went wrong and I had to escape along the indirect version. Of course I did my best to act as though that had always been my intention, but somehow I think they knew. I've not done it since, although in fairness later that day I broke my ankle and I'm not sure I've actually been back to that end of the crag since.
jcm
> Middlefell buttress 700+
HOW many?? Bloody hell.
I used to solo Mantelpiece Buttress Direct every time I went to that end of Stanage, childishly enjoying the effect this created on the inevitable helmeted groups of boy scouts. The one day somehow it went wrong and I had to escape along the indirect version. Of course I did my best to act as though that had always been my intention, but somehow I think they knew. I've not done it since, although in fairness later that day I broke my ankle and I'm not sure I've actually been back to that end of the crag since.
jcm
Post edited at 23:27
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
I did that in the wet, in big boots. Or rather, I didnt do it- after slithering about ineffectually on rock with all the adhesive qualities of buttered soap, I bypassed it on the steeper rocks to the right. Certainly wasnt a scramble. The traverse was good value though- into impressive territory for a moderate.
As for routes not to tire of- I'd suggest dental slab at rylstone. Pure joy.
Cheers
Gregor
> One that sticks in my mind is North Buttress on Tryfan. Very good for taking novices up, to get the feel of a big mountain route, mostly very easy. Great traverse onto the very exposed Belle Vue Terrace. BTW, the UKC description of this is quite atrociously bad. It says '7 pitches' (probably about right) and just bothers to mention the first three. The first pitch it says, 'Scurry up the corner'. I remember this as a fine groove and much the hardest part of the route. I've got no idea what it means by scurrying, but it wrongly makes it sound like a scramble. The pitch '3' is virtually unintelligible, and there's no mention of the traverse onto Belle Vue Terrace, which is pretty much the raison d'etre of the entire route.
I did that in the wet, in big boots. Or rather, I didnt do it- after slithering about ineffectually on rock with all the adhesive qualities of buttered soap, I bypassed it on the steeper rocks to the right. Certainly wasnt a scramble. The traverse was good value though- into impressive territory for a moderate.
As for routes not to tire of- I'd suggest dental slab at rylstone. Pure joy.
Cheers
Gregor
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In reply to Simon Caldwell:
That really is each to his own. I shot off to do it the very day I first saw a pic of it in a book (maybe 100 Best Limestone Climbs?) because it looked so fantastic. I got to the top glad to have escaped with my life and vowed never to go back and never have. It felt like the whole crag could come down. And I was leading E3 at the time!
> I've logged 14 ascents since I first climbed in in 1998, but I expect I've done it a few more than that over the years!
That really is each to his own. I shot off to do it the very day I first saw a pic of it in a book (maybe 100 Best Limestone Climbs?) because it looked so fantastic. I got to the top glad to have escaped with my life and vowed never to go back and never have. It felt like the whole crag could come down. And I was leading E3 at the time!
In reply to Rog Wilko:
Fluted Columns at Almscliff always a traditional solo for me on every visit. Piss but always that lovely little lump in the throat near the top.
Fluted Columns at Almscliff always a traditional solo for me on every visit. Piss but always that lovely little lump in the throat near the top.
In reply to Darron:
I think once you have made more than 50 repetitions of a route you have probably significantly contributed to the polish on that route...
I think once you have made more than 50 repetitions of a route you have probably significantly contributed to the polish on that route...
In reply to Goucho:
Right Unconquerable solo 200+ times
who knows , maybe there was someone just as strange going there on alternative days to myself.
I suppose the attraction with the Right was the classic status, the great line and the sequence of moves that could be trimmed to the minimum until you felt as if you were floating up the crag. However looking back it now seems a dangerous step never to had considered the fatal fall from the last moves.
One attraction to soloing on outcrops in my case grit is when you discover an easy sequence to a route and delight in the sequence again and again. So along with the Right , the Unprintable , the Vice , Cheques Crack etc all have been the subject of this repetitive attention.
Right Unconquerable solo 200+ times
> Is that a record Bill?
who knows , maybe there was someone just as strange going there on alternative days to myself.
I suppose the attraction with the Right was the classic status, the great line and the sequence of moves that could be trimmed to the minimum until you felt as if you were floating up the crag. However looking back it now seems a dangerous step never to had considered the fatal fall from the last moves.
One attraction to soloing on outcrops in my case grit is when you discover an easy sequence to a route and delight in the sequence again and again. So along with the Right , the Unprintable , the Vice , Cheques Crack etc all have been the subject of this repetitive attention.
Post edited at 08:57
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Well this post made me stop and think. Well done.
I've been soloing stuff since I started climbing, probably more now that I pretty much solely Boulder and highball, esp on grit.
While I've never been through Mick Ryan's Ninja/Carlos Castenada type relationship with soloing, I think that I've never experienced a deeper more respectful relationship with rock. Done stupid stuff, hard stuff, and long stuff in trainers, but never took the rock for granted.
Ok there have been a couple of lapses which ended in hospital, but they were after long Sunday lunchtime sessions in the Moon or Vaynol when respect definitely wasn't being observed...
> I'm not sure soloing it shows respect.
Well this post made me stop and think. Well done.
I've been soloing stuff since I started climbing, probably more now that I pretty much solely Boulder and highball, esp on grit.
While I've never been through Mick Ryan's Ninja/Carlos Castenada type relationship with soloing, I think that I've never experienced a deeper more respectful relationship with rock. Done stupid stuff, hard stuff, and long stuff in trainers, but never took the rock for granted.
Ok there have been a couple of lapses which ended in hospital, but they were after long Sunday lunchtime sessions in the Moon or Vaynol when respect definitely wasn't being observed...
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
Generally not that interested in repeating routes but used to live by Symonds Yat so did Snoozing Suzie a lot; it was always dry and falling apart, so seemed like a different route every time.
I always do Heaven Crack twice every time I go to Stanage though.....
Generally not that interested in repeating routes but used to live by Symonds Yat so did Snoozing Suzie a lot; it was always dry and falling apart, so seemed like a different route every time.
I always do Heaven Crack twice every time I go to Stanage though.....
In reply to alan moore:
The yat is my local so I've done a few rep's on the route next to it. Rite carry on. Also exchange. Both about 12 times. Orange wall is a route I will never get bored on mind.
Luke.
The yat is my local so I've done a few rep's on the route next to it. Rite carry on. Also exchange. Both about 12 times. Orange wall is a route I will never get bored on mind.
Luke.
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Complete nonsense. Polish doesnt come from solo climbers it comes from (star chasing or outdoor group) poor technique and dirty shoes. On grit, anyone knowing the distribution of polished climbs compared to the distribution of the hundreds of regular solo ascents from keen locals knows this.
In my case I used to solo certain routes like Heaven Crack, Mutiny Crack and Sail Chimney anytime I visited the general area of those crags out of the joy of the movement. I also had a long time exploration of Verandah Buttress to find the secret way (and failed) then when I gave up, and was shown it, was added to my 2nd rank joyful solos.
Complete nonsense. Polish doesnt come from solo climbers it comes from (star chasing or outdoor group) poor technique and dirty shoes. On grit, anyone knowing the distribution of polished climbs compared to the distribution of the hundreds of regular solo ascents from keen locals knows this.
In my case I used to solo certain routes like Heaven Crack, Mutiny Crack and Sail Chimney anytime I visited the general area of those crags out of the joy of the movement. I also had a long time exploration of Verandah Buttress to find the secret way (and failed) then when I gave up, and was shown it, was added to my 2nd rank joyful solos.
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In reply to Rog Wilko:
mississippi butress direct. steady well protected and always able to climb it
mississippi butress direct. steady well protected and always able to climb it
In reply to Offwidth:
I don't know about grit. I don't know if there is any polish on Right Unconquerable or not.
But if you said was entrely true, then there would never be any polish on any limestone sport route above 6b or so, yet I hear people complain about it? (maybe they exaggerate). I'm not saying that would be due to soloing but I suspect all traffic has some impact.
I don't know about grit. I don't know if there is any polish on Right Unconquerable or not.
But if you said was entrely true, then there would never be any polish on any limestone sport route above 6b or so, yet I hear people complain about it? (maybe they exaggerate). I'm not saying that would be due to soloing but I suspect all traffic has some impact.
In reply to Rog Wilko:
I've lost count of the number of times I've done a few routes at Trem - One Step, Grim Wall, Merlin Direct. Something about the texture of the rock and the place I just love. Oddly relaxing, quite unlike onsighting normally.
I've lost count of the number of times I've done a few routes at Trem - One Step, Grim Wall, Merlin Direct. Something about the texture of the rock and the place I just love. Oddly relaxing, quite unlike onsighting normally.
In reply to andrewmcleod:
Maybe sports climbing attracts more nervous climbers with poorer footwork. Limestone also polishes faster than most rocks. If your foot is still once placed on the hold there is no action to cause polish; a moving foot combined with an abrasive medium (dirt) maximises the polishing effect.
Maybe sports climbing attracts more nervous climbers with poorer footwork. Limestone also polishes faster than most rocks. If your foot is still once placed on the hold there is no action to cause polish; a moving foot combined with an abrasive medium (dirt) maximises the polishing effect.
Post edited at 16:52
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